What would you give me?
5 years ago
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5 years ago- 5 years ago
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Advice for putting palms in 5-1-1 mix
Comments (10)Hi Earthworm. What types of Palms are your purchasing? I have had good results with both types of mixes and i use the Gritty Mix more than the 5-1-1. ( with all of my other plants and C & S, tropicals ) My palms love both types, but the Gritty Mix is heavy, so with my huge palms they all are in the 5-1-1. All are doing well!! Since you live in WA, I would wait until late spring to repot your new palms into the 5-1-1 mix. I think this mix will be good for the palms, but if they are small and you want to use the gritty Mix and can find the ingredients that would be my choice. The only reason i would use the 5-1-1 on my large palms in containers is due to weight issues. My potted palms are huge and i can't move them around like i used to!! I have huge in ground palms here and i love my container palms. They would love either mix, but the mix would last longer if you used the Gritty so you could leave it in the same container for a couple of years instead of repotting if using the 5-1-1-. It would be a choice of convience for you.. but if it was me.. and i had some new palms and they were small in size, i would repot into the Gritty. It sounds like you want to use the 5-1-1 and they would be very happy in this mix!!! Like Jodi mentioned up thread, make sure when you repot this spring/summer to keep the roots moist when barerooting and due this in the shade. Make sure you give your palm a rest after the repot and acclimate it so it doesn't burn in the sun. Let it rest in the shade for a couple of weeks and gently introduce it to the full sun!! Have fun with your new palms and remember to check the moisture level with a skewer if you are uncertain of the moisture needs. It does take a little adjustment period for watering, but i found it was easy with palms in this mix. Please let me know if you have any questions and i can't wait to see what you have coming soon! :-) Take care, Laura...See MoreNewly planted Fruit Trees
Comments (4)For the first 2-3 years you need to make sure when the new branches sprout out that the angles are kept at 45 degrees or less from horizontal, and if not, then prune them off or weigh or tie them down so that they are. Clothes pins can be handy for this -- clip a clothespin to the central leader with the side of the spring pressing down on the new branch while it is still young and green to keep the angle low. Another thing is when the branches become too crowded, you may need to do a little thinning. But for the most part, young trees just need time to grow out. It will be a couple years before they produce any fruit unless they are already several years old at planting time. One other thing I like to do is if the trees grow up way too tall -- I mean like 9 feet high, so that you won't be able to reach the fruit up there -- then you may wish to lop the top off each year so that the fruiting wood stays low enough for you to be able to pick it later in the tree's life. I guess I've assumed that you want a pyramid-shaped central leader tree. You could also do an open-center vase-shaped tree. There are different techniques with many books and resources about each. Figure out what you think will work best for your orchard and stick with it. Have fun with it....See MoreNeed Advice on Best Grasses and Annuals Books
Comments (1)I actually like Armitage's book on annuals, but I was just looking for general info. I also appreciate his honesty on which annuals will not look good during the heat and humidity of August....See MoreThree bits of advice you would give me
Comments (8)Yeah I agree with one poster about forgetting most of what you know about gardening, though not everything, but conditions are very very different here. Any plant that requires humidity (like tropicals)... forget it! The air can be so incredibly dry here that if you leave a cutting out without water even in the shade, the next day it will literally crumble to dust if you squeeze it in your hand. This means that crowding plants together can sometimes work to create a micro-climate that retains a bit more moisture. The sun up north is lower in the sky throught the day and the difference in day length between summer and winter is bigger. This affects what areas will be shaded and when. There is an awesome free 3D modeling software called "GOOGLE SKETCHUP". It's super easy to use and it has built in shadow modelling that is very accurate. You can for example create a rough model of the house and other things around it using the correct orientation. Then you can enter a location (Phoenix is close enough), and time of day, and it will show you exactly what areas will be shaded. You can then make it automatically change the time in one hour increments, that way you can tell throughout the day which areas are shaded and which ones get the most sun. Anything with exposure to the west in the afternoon will have to bear the hottest arizona sun. Personally I would think that planting a row of fairly tall trees on the west/SW side to provide afternoon shade would help whatever else grows in the rest of the yard. There is no such thing as too little sun in Arizona, and full shade is actually rare EVEN on the north side.. The sun is at a high angle (about 80 degrees) in the middle of the day. Google "Caliche"... we have plenty of it, along with hardpan. very very backbreaking work to dig through. If you dig a planting hole, do the water drainage test to see if the water will go down. If not you might have to dig through the caliche to create drainage chimneys. Arizona is a place of extremes. Just because it gets hot it doesn't mean it stays hot. Daily temp swings can be as much as 40 degrees. That means it could be 70 during the day and freeze at night in the winter. Ficus trees are beautiful but won't survive even a light frost (and they're water guzzlers). Look up the Sissoo tree. It likes lots of water but can do very well on low water once established. it's a beautiful shade tree that is almost litter free and fast growing. (I planted one 2 years ago and it grew from 6 ft to about 20 ft. Water deep and less often. In the summer I water trees about once a week, but leave the water running for a long time until there's a puddle and the water soaks deep. soil conditions: biggest problem is high ph. This can prevent uptake of iron and zinc especially in citrus. Chellated iron can help keep things green. Nitrogen dissapears fast when it's hot (citrus like a lot of nitrogen) Arizona has some pretty lax graywater laws. That means you can modify your plumbing to use some of your graywater for watering shade trees. You don't need a permit. My bathtub drains in my backyard around my trees. This goes a long way towards conserving water. ok this is more than 3 things, but I hope it helps....See More- 5 years ago
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5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoAirplane 2-movie Collection DVD (2 discs)
Includes the movie Airplane! 1980 ("Don't Call Me Shirley!" Edition) and Airplane II, the Sequel, 1982. I hope you like early 80s movies, especially ones that spoof 1970s movies.
I guess I got off pretty cheaply.
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5 years agoGrocery items-candy for stockings. Online was Frosty. He arrived yesterday. He’s bringing cold weather with him. It will be a high of 81 and low of 39 tomorrow here in Orlando. We just threw out one we had that looked just like it. We probably had him for close to 30 years they several moves. The plastic got brittle eventually.
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