How wide is enough? My linen closet is only 24" wide. It's enough. I have a hamper on the bottom, two towels in the middle for towels, and a shelf on top for extra blankets. I would like to have more space, but this is enough. My favorite thing: The hamper is hidden away. Now, as for style, I love your picture. It's so much prettier than my plain door. I do have a couple thoughts: - Since you have 10' ceilngs, I'd go with a solid door at the top. This'd allow you to hide blankets, pillows, whatever. - I do like the opaque glass. I'm not always neat. - I don't think you need drywall on the side . . . in fact, why does your picture show a FULL WALL between the vanity and the cabinet? Why couldn't they save space by simply putting the cabinet against the sink? Those are questions for the cabinet maker. This post was edited by MrsPete on Mon, Nov 17, 14 at 20:21

I have a 48" wide rangetop and did 2-drawer stacks of 36" under the center and 15" to each side....with 14"ers at the top beside the rangetop itself. You might waste a little bit of space, but you don't have to stick to 12" to match the wok unit if larger drawers would suit you better for storage. My dh built our cabinets and didn't want to do a 48" wide drawer that would hold heavy pots and pans. (It went against what he'd been taught) But I saw a 48" wide unit at an appliance store that did just that. It had a good, heavy bottom, good corner construction, and high quality, heavy hardware. I think you could have 48" if you want. Maybe ask the cabinet guy about under-drawer slides with one more than they use for narrower drawers for extra support and steadiness? I know there are quite a few people that responded positively about having 42" drawers. Probably not as many with 48", but I bet there are some. A rendering of our rangetop area cabinets:

Thanks for the link, buehl! That's exactly what I was going to search for this morning. I do have a bit of wall on one side of the cabinet (the edge of an archway into the eating nook/butler's pantry--hence the need for the cabinet to create space for the refrigerator door swing) that would make the back third of a double-sided pull-out inaccessible from one side. plllog, thanks for throwing out the idea of modifying the frame. I think, though, that it's time for not letting the best be the enemy of the good, and keeping it simple just to get the thing ordered. To someone who always before has had to snake a hand into a thin crack between the wall and refrigerator to grab a broom, this will feel positively luxurious, even one-sided and a couple inches narrower than might have been possible. Thanks for all the help. This was the last cabinet detail, and the order will go in today. Well, we're still working on getting the stain right. There never is just "one" last detail, is there?

To clarify my numbers. Take the width of the window. Add 10%., That's width x 1.1. Thar's how much the total width of the curtains will cover. When the windows are pulled back all the way so that the window is completely uncovered, the amount of wall that the curtains will cover is 10% of the width of the window. That is. you have to allow for, in your case, 14.7 inches of wall space to be covered when you open the curtains fully. This is for light weight unlined fabric. You will have more of the wall covered with heavier or lined fabric, according to the formula I gave in my previous comment. As for not being able to pull the curtains back over the needed supports for the curtain rod, you can get a curtain rod that will let you do so. You need to look for a specialty rod, not one where the rings surround the rod.