Do not do the decorative line.

No decorative strip

Please, no decorative strip. However...taking your contractor at his word and assuming there is going to be an extra inch at the top, can’t the tile guy cheat the grout spacing in order to make it come out even? It would mean a slightly thicker grout line all around, but it could fit perfectly with whole tiles. If you really don't want the slightly thicker grout line (which would be understandable), then I would definitely go with the cut 1” tile at the top. But man, I’d make him set those tiles VERY close (with the absolute thinnest grout line possible) in order to give you the largest cut tile possible at the top! Love the tile, btw.

Agreed that you have too much distance between the counter top and the bottom of the cabinets. Will you be able to reach the second shelf?

If the contractor cannot move the cabinets down, perhaps he can put a 1 inch strip of wood that matches the cabinets. I don't know if this would look good or not.

Your other choice is to go with a different tile or a different layout.

Do the strip at the top. And if your cabinets are 19" instead of 18, cool. You can get a bigger mixer.

(The strip of cherry (?) at the base of the cabinets is a valid idea, too. It will look like part of the cabinet if done right. Plus, you can screw things into it.)

Do the strip at the top. It won't be noticeable at all--it'll look like the tile fades into the cabinets, as it should. To me, there are no other reasonable options.

A strip between the rows of tiles? Cutting that beautiful tile to put a strip? With more grout lines? No.

I don't think it would be possible to cheat the grout spacing. It would end up being like 1/2" grout lines, which would look weird and could also get really dirty. You all have convinced me not to do the decorative strip. The only place the 1" top row of tile will be visible is on the end, to the left of the cabinet. Maybe we could not do a top row to the left of the cabinet and just start it flush with the edge of the cabinet? I'll have to see how many trim pieces I have. I kind of like the idea of a wood piece too. I'm sure my cabinet maker, Bill, could crank that out pretty quickly. It's just natural cherry with Danish oil. Thanks everyone!

Also, I would do the tile to the ceiling around the window. We did it in our kitchen remodel and it looks great!

Yet- as I look a little closer, I don’t have the wood trim around my window so there’s a little room for tile and it’s a bit more cohesive from the bottom, up the sides, and to the top.

Just notch the tile around the cabinet -- i.e., let it end above the cabinet height next to the window. A common treatment, and looks nice.

What color grout are you considering? The more contrast between the tile and grout, the more obvious the narrow strip of tile at the top. I generally prefer to minimize the color contrast for a more uniform and less busy appearance. And, most definitely, no decorative strip.

I agree with no decorative strip, but this person is pulling it off!

The grout will be a light/medium gray, similar to the grout in acm's photo (I hope). Notching the tile around the end of the cabinet might actually be the best idea. Thanks acm! I hope the grout blends well with the tiles.

I think the reason there is extra space between the counter top and cabinets is because at the time the cabinets were installed, we didn't know what kind of countertop we wanted. I guess some countertops require a wooden frame, which our cabinet maker added. But it turned out it wasn't needed for soapstone, so the soapstone installers removed it, which lowered the overall height of the counter.

If you can get 1”x1” tiles that match your wall tiles, I would consider that rather than 1”x6” cut tiles.

Why can’t you center a row of tile with all of your plugs/switches. Then they will look less obtrusive. This would necessitate a partial height row both at the bottom of the space and at the top of the space. But both partial thickness rows would then be wide enough to not look awkward.

Ooohh...interesting....

I like @felizlady‘s idea of the 1x1 tile at the top...if they are grouted very close together like the rest (side to side, and top and bottom) it would be a great solution!

The matching 1”x1” tile should go above the second or third row of regular tiles.....better than just that last inch under the cabinet where they would be essentially hidden.

I would like it better at the top, as an alternative to the cut 6” line of tile, and not try to use it as an accent line. I love the 6” tiles, and the way they will look so uniform as to size, grout lines, etc. But the 1x1 at the top would be a very unique and intentional seeming solution. Almost like a design choice substitute for a bullnose.

Either way - nicely done, @felizlady!

There is really no issue about cutting tiles to fit the space as needed. ACM 's suggestion to wrap past the cabinet line is great and shows attention to details as opposed to just cutting and stopping.

What acm said it's the best way to do this and add some detail, if not can cut tile to fill the void on the wet-saw, can put a border, etc this can be solved in a few diffrent ways.

Do the 1” tiles that match if you can get them. Otherwise, cut the tiles you have. This is not uncommon and no one will see it, other than you. Gorgeous tiles should not be compromised by a decorative strip that will look out-of-place. Felizlady has the best solution. Contractors rarely do.

Add a bottom rail to the bottom of the cabinets, hide plug mold/undercab lights as well. Then if you still need to do the 1" tile cheat, it won't be noticeable.

@JuneKnow It looks the crown was 1" shy give or take from reaching the ceiling so they raised the cabinets to avoid the extra step doing a build-up.

JuneKnow if you would read the OP'S comments you would see where she explained why there is a difference in height.

No, that’s not why. Not at all. BS. A sub top thickness compensator is not ever going to add up to 1”. All wall cabinets should be installed at 54” AFF. The design deficiencies have created multiple issues here. Issues that should be corrected.

You don’t pay for custom cabinets to build in dysfunctional problems just like you’re buying knockdown junk from the jackleg carpet store. Custom is supposed to eliminate these types of issues.

Way too much micromanaging here. Install your beautiful tile, wrap the corner as @acm suggests, move on, and enjoy your kitchen.

Really? We're trying to have C S's cabinets remounted here? WHY??

Appliance holes have to be standard sizes because appliances have been standardized.

Counter heights should be approximately standard, partly because of the appliances and partly because the "normal" height is about right for most people. (Yet people do change it, especially really tall or really short people.)

Upper cabinets should be where ever you want 'em. If you have no preference, 18" is a safe height. More or less isn't an automatic failure. I've had higher and I've had lower. A few inches doesn't significantly effect what you can reach (and I'm 5'1" and have tested reachability extensively). I prefer them higher. They look nicer (especially if you have a nice backsplash) and they are more pleasant to work in front of.

C S, I hope you got trim pieces and aren't stuck using Schluter! Best reason to order from Fireclay ya know! :)