well, here's how I spaced 'em. One compartment is 3-3/4 inches, and the rest of 2-3/4 inches. I could have gone 1/4 inch smaller on all of them, but I wouldn't have wanted to go larger. They don't hold too much, each of them, and the box of cooling racks sits just outside the dividers (leans on the last one, in fact). So, it worked out. And now, I get to THROW AWAY the box the tray dividers were in, which has been sitting around my house for many months. I installed infrastructure AND decluttered, all at once! And, I think now I can take the drill downstairs, because I've decided I'm not going to keep the wire pull-out (wrong size, doesn't do what I need), so I don't need to install it. LOTS of decluttering. Oh, and now that the shelf in this cabinet is higher (to make room for the cookie sheets), I can stand the wholesale-club jumbo boxes of cereal UP, and fit more of them in. We've nearly never had a place to stash these; now we do!

I had the same concern, and put a backstop at the back of the cabinet so they wouldn't go back that far. Mine would not have stayed up without the back support. This cabinet is actaully deep enough for the fridge, so even deeper than a regular wall oven cabinet would be. I think I made mine so that they only go back 24" and that is not a problem. I think that cabinet is actually 30" deep and that was a bit too much, plus mine is not a real cabinet - it's open to the sheetrock wall in the back. I needed something to screw the holders into other than sheetrock. my racks are 20" long so it's only 4" in the front that is "open" and that is not a problem. A few times I've had smaller things get hooked and pushed to the back when I sticking in other things, but it's not a big problem. As you can see, I have a lot of stuff there!

There are quite a few threads out there discussing drawers vs roll-out tray shelves (ROTS and a.k.a., pull-out shelves). Pros & Cons of each Opening/Closing... Drawers require one movement to open/close Open: pull open Close: push closed. ROTS, on the other hand, require 2 or 3 motions plus waiting... Open: move out of the way of the doors, open 1 or 2 doors, pull out ROTS. If you want something in the front: move out of the way of the doors, open 1 or 2 doors, pull out ROTS slightly so you can lift the item over the edge. Close: push in ROTS, wait for it to close fully (so you don't ding the doors), close 1 or 2 doors Storage/sides... Drawers have sides the height of the drawer opening. This prevents things from falling off the sides, either onto the floor or into the interior of the cabinet (on the sides). This means you can stack things w/o worrying about things falling as the sides will catch them. It also keeps things from extending out past the walls of the drawer so they don't get caught on the cabinet frame when opening the drawer (Note: Getting caught on the frame is not an issue w/frameless cabinets, just framed...which includes overlay & inset.) ROTS have shallow sides, thus allowing things to fall off the sides and allowing things to hang over the sides of the shelf and get caught on the cabinet frame (which can result in nicks in your frame - experience speaking here!). Adjustability... Drawers are not adjustable to different heights inside the cabinet. OK, this is the one place where ROTS have the advantage. However, with planning and/or organizers you can do almost anything with the drawers and store almost anything in them (dishes, glasses, etc.) ROTS have the advantage here in most cases. Most ROTS are adjustable..but not all are, so check w/your cabinetmaker. Cost... Drawers, in my case were less expensive than ROTS. I have a 27" 3-drawer base and a 27" ROTS base cabinet (the only ROTS cab I have and that I regret) and the ROTS cab cost $140 more than the drawer base. Regardless of your decision on drawers vs ROTS, get full-extension...it's a must b/c it allows you full access to your drawers or ROTS! Soft-close is also nice, but it's a "nice to have" not a "must" (although, soft-close does come standard in some cabinet lines like Omega & Omega Dynasty/Embassy). Actually, I don't recommend soft-close for ROTS b/c the slight delay in closing (as the drawer/tray is gently closed) means having to wait to close the door(s). [Experience speaking here again!] Here are some threads that might be of interest to you (and others)... Thread: Drawers or cabinet under cooktop? Thread: Drawers over pull outs in Cabinets Thread: Kitchen drawers versus pull-out shelves? Thread: Which pull out drawers are must haves? [Some discussion of drawers vs ROTS contained inside the thread]

I use the quarter sheet pans in my toaster oven. They work really well there. The full size commercial sheet pans fit the vertical compartment of the kitchen cabinets in this old farm house. They basically run floor to counter top height and are a few inches wide. I'm not sure what the old lady that remodeled the kitchen had in mind but, they are way too tall and narrow for anything other than really big sheet or pizza pans.