This is the poor thing before I rescued i.

Jade rescue · More Info

This s after transplanting to pot that rains, that is o ly 2" larger than its root ball,with heavy perlite draining soil.

Jade rescue · More Info

I'm going to see if stringing it might encourage t o grow uprightt again. It will take increments otherwise the branches might snap if I try to upright them too

Jade rescue · More Info

Emma-Kate, I'm sorry to give you the bad news, but you're trying to hold on to something that is already gone and is not coming back. You're biggest section has lost too much volume on the inside to ever again support its own weight at that trunk angle, which means it will be a many-years long slow decline for the plant until you repot again with a massively different trunk angle to counterbalance the weight. This means separating them because the major sections all have conflicting trunk angles. Actually I would cut off the smaller trunks instead of separating to not risk disturbing the roots too much of the big section. I would also severely prune that too-heavy portion hanging way outside the pot. I'm very sorry but those 3 trunks are just not one viable plant together anymore. Btw, those strings will slowly cut into the wet succulent flesh and damage the plant further. Garden tape or cloth would do better, but still is no substitute for just getting the thing balanced on it's own asap.

I would attempt to rescue it...but would also separate trunks. It looks like the thick trunk is branching - I would cut it and root the cut off branch. It will take very long time for branches start growing upwards naturally, and tying with strings is no help - I agree with Tom, they should be removed.

The long branches will not revert to shorter, more compact. They would need to be pruned. There should be lots of pruning done to improve the shape. It is important for plant to get lots of light, as that is how it will grow more compact. and will eventually get more straight.

It is quite warm in your solarium...make sure light is really good, since in warm temps plant will continue growing.

I had ssuspicions about the strings, so I'm glad to hear it from another source.

I've read that the best way to encourage thick growth is by pruning leaves and branch shoots regularly. I agree that the plant needs to be heavily cut back and reshaped - I was nervous to take off too much at once.

Should I shape it heavily now, regardless of how much I took off earlier? Its winter, not a ton of new growth, but some... Should I wait a couple weeks from this transplant before I further shock the plant by pruning heavily?

Tom, maybe I'm having a hard time understanding what you mean by separating. The three trunks all stem into the same root base. It's one big plant.

I know I can cut and callous thick branches and then turn that into a h whole new plant. But can I do that from the absolute base of the trunk? If its as easy as cut, callous for a few days/weeks, then plop into some cactus soil, then redirecting the trunks in a new medium might be their best bet at attaining a vertical growth pattern. But if I mess it up... well it would be a shame.

Any suggestions? What would you do if this was your plant?

Yes, Emma. I mean that likely only one of those 3 big trunks can stay attached to the base, then the other two would be big cuttings. I was thinking of using the big one to stay attached and drastically alter its planting angle to balance the weight of it's own smaller branches so it can support itself long-term. Rina was instead thinking of cutting off the big one and re-rooting it as a huge cutting. Either is possible. If you cut the big one off then the base may look more natural without the existing mega-base (or not, you'll have to judge for yourself up close). If you only cut the smaller two and leave the big one attached, you don't have to worry about rooting it. Also, it would sit higher in the pot. Seemed like less of a risk to me for a 50-year-old treasure.

I agree with what Tom is saying overall.

The reason I would consider cutting trunks apart is that 2 thickest ones are 'splaying' too wide apart. Then they could be repositioned in their own pots (didn't mark it, but thinner one should be cut off too). I would cut off that branch on right very close to the trunk, as I attempted to indicate, or cut thru the rootball. IMO, either would work:

Theoretically, any trunk can be rooted. Obviously, it needs to be healthy. And thicker it is, longer it will take to callus. There is bit of risk, but personally I would try - but that is just me.

OTOH, you could leave 2 thickest branches/trunks attached and prune heavily rest of the plant, keep it in great light, and in few years those trunks will straighten-up to some extend. Something like this:

I didn't mark that thinner trunk again, but I would cut that one off regardless - so I won't mention it again.

That would leave you with wider plant, but not as 'splayed' as before. There will be branching where you make cuts, so take that in consideration for eventual shape.

Pruning and repotting is best done during active growth, which would be late spring to summer. However, it is ok to repot in situation where not doing so could cause problems. So for that reason only, I wold separate trunks (1 or 2), and pot them up into better mix than just C&S soil: please improve drainage by adding lots of sifted perlite (or pumice if available). C&S soil from the bag usually is not as well draining as advertised. 1:1 mix is what many ppl use.

You could do some light pruning too to make plant bit narrower. But I can not stress how important is the light; unless you make sure plant is getting it, all new growth will be lanky.

You may need some support for the plant until roots get anchored in the new mix. I usually use just larger rocks, but sometimes you may need to tie it up - especially if potted in grainier mix (which, IMO, is a must). Here is a photo of one such plant, secured by rocks and wire. There is padding where wire is touching the plant trunks, and it is removed when roots are established:

Here is a photo of frost-damaged jade that was given to me. Most of the thinner branches fell off.

Here is the same plant approx. 3.5 yrs later - as you can see trunk has grown much more upwards, and straightened itself quite a bit. There is orange line indicating original trunk that was bent over - there was no support of any kind:

I have pruned drastically some bigger jades in 'off season', but not as big and old as yours. Plant was not as needy as yours, I was more-or-less experimenting...See THIS THREADfor some photos and dates.

Pls. remember that we are looking only at the photos provided, and we can't see plant from every angle. So as for shaping, you have to make decisions.

i have rehydrated very desiccated jades by soaking the leaves and trunk in a tub for may be an hour or two :). i was away for sev months and leaves shrunk considerably
as it was not watered. i submerged one side at a time and rotated the plant sev times.

and my jades are 15 and 25 years old and quite big. i had to use a very large tub :)).

i would suggest cutting off those bending trunks and dunking the branches, but leaving the cut out of the water. this will help to prevent leaf drop before it roots.

i have produced roots on very thick old 1.5" trunk by wrapping the base with coco-coir with some moist sphag inside: the whole wrapped in plastic. yep. it worked ! i had good roots within 2 months.

i would cut even lower then Rina suggested by a few inches, leaving just more straighter portions of the trunk.

The trunks will eventually straighten up, as long as plants is kept in good light. The reason I didn't suggest pruning shorter is to preserve tapering of trunks...and that is really good and desirable feature on jades...

Petrushka

You mentioned using air layering technique on 1.5" trunk - is that diameter or circumference?

diameter, it was a cut from my oldest 25 year jade. it's not air-layering, i cut it off. but used coir matting and just a little sphag , less then for air-layering. the reason i tried it was because somebody posted that they rooted an old cutting in pure sphag. :).

i agree, tapering is important, but it is possible to sort of simulate it if and when two shoots emerge from the top right on the edge. they usually grow out after 5-7 years nicely thickening and the fork is not too wide. but it doesn't happen always.

i just like to get really thick trunks off my oldest jades when i stop liking the shape and rooting in coir matting with sphag fast allowed me to keep the tops turgid without shrinking: so instant 'old plant' look. :)

Petrushka

Thank you. I suggested you used air layering technique - I should have said "similar to...". I have air layered quite a few plants, so am familiar with the process. I never thought of trying to root jade as you suggested, and successfully rooted trunk that was just a touch over 1.6" diameter (5.11" circumference), old fashioned way. One day, I'll try your methods - if a ever have thick trunk. Many I root are usually under 1" diameter, and they root in short period of time.

trunks root, but while they root the leaves (if there are many) shrivel..i don't like that. of course, you can mist ...but i was away for 2 mo..so i stuck a piece of rope inside too to keep some moisture coming from the jug next to it (wicking)..sphag wicks of course, but i didn't want to rot the trunk :O...so i put just a little in.

anyways, i come back and i have 2" roots all over :)). sorry, can't find the pic to show, can't locate it..but the top is huge with 4 branches and lotsa leaves, all good.

oh, and i stick top wicks into my huge jades for wicking while i am away - just around the rim 1" below the soil may be. works like magic!

you did a great job on your jade, by the way :).