Well...first you need to find out the worst case scenario. Add up the flow for your two body sprays, plus the flow of your shower head. That's the GPM that you need to carry to through your shower valve and to your diverter. You;ll need a valve that can pass through that volume of water. You can do what you want with an A/B/AB diverter. Coming out of the diverter is where you can run one 1/2" copper run to the shower head and a second 1/2" copper run to the body sprays. That's when using a separate on/off valve and a separate diverter. However, for your setup, you can run all three outlets from a 1/2" copper supply going into the valve and with 1/2" copper running from the valve to the fixtures. There are quite a few valves that can do what you want. One of the last houses I did I used Hansgrohe Thermobalance III valves in all of the bathrooms in the house. The TB III is an A/B/C/BC type of valve. It's also a 1/2" valve. I used it that way in a couple of the bathroms, in others the A and B outlets are looped together (let's call this new combined AB loop "D") so you now have a D/C/DC setup. "D" can be your shower head. "C" can be your body jets. "CD" can be your car wash with everything throwing water at you. In case that's confusing, think of it as the A/B/AB valve that I described in the beginning. It's an approved way to plumb the valve, and it with the TB III having ON/OFF, temp, and diverter all in one valve, you'll have an uncluttered wall. But again, besides the TB III there are other valves out there. So can you do it with a single control head? Yes. Can you do it with 1/2" copper into the valve and 1/2" copper coming out of the valve? Yes.

This is a subject that I am very passionate about. I had my first i/g pool built three years ago - it's a 19 x 37 oval and the PB built the skimmer and jets on the same wall, with the jets on either side of the skimmer. When I protested, I was told that the jets will blow across the pool, hit the wall and then will circle back to the skimmer; therefore bringing the debris right to the skimmer where it will be collected. This has turned out to be a crock - all of the debris is blown to the other side of the pool where it all collects, far away from the skimmer. The only advantage is that I can skim my pool basically in one area. MAYBE this might work in a narrower pool - but mine, at 19' across is too wide to have the current bounce off the wall and head back to where it came. I have bought one of those old-fashioned portable skimmers used on above ground pools and use it when conditions are windy to try to control the debris that blows in my pool. I have to put a vacuum hose in the skimmer and bring the hose to the other side of the pool and attach it to the portable skimmer, which does a great job of skimming. But when we use the pool, we have to take it all out because it's in the way, and what a PITA it is, not to mention it is unsightly. So, I said all that to say I would not recommend this configuration. Good Luck and all the best, Jan

There is a gauge that you can purchase at Home Depot, I just added a fitting for a total cost of about $15.00 and checked both inside my home at several points and outside. You just screw it onto a faucet and turn it on. I wanted to know the interior pressure for the thermostatic shower system install and outside for a future underground irrigation system. Depending on the distance of the faucet (where you attach the gauge) to the main water line it can change by maybe 5 psi, but that's not very significant. Personally I noticed a difference of about 2 psi. Since the purchase I lent out the gauge about half dozen times to friends so it's been useful. Maybe a neighbor has one you can borrow if your inclined to know what your pressure is. Water pressure is water pressure regardless of where it comes from. Sara_in_philly I never consider a question "dumb" as that's how we learn. nancyinmich Sorry I missed your post. I purchased the Pfister 8 1/4" thermostatic rain can and I believe it has self cleaning around (200) nozzles. Pfister has several different rain cans but I purchased this one as it had a good price point and was on sale on Amazon.com for around $50.00 for brushed nickel on a list price of around $200.00. It comes with the arm and flange. I liked it so much I purchased a couple more. It comes with a restrictor down to 1.5 gpm but I removed it on one shower and it does make a difference. The restrictor is simply a stainless steel screen. meanom Sorry I also missed your post. The friend in question had the Riobel thermostatic system and the difference was, the riobelbody sprays were designed in a way that the water flow didn't react well with change in water pressure, plus the nozzle's were designed more like a shower head rather than a rain can. As for the Riobel rain can, maybe it was the specific rain can they had but it only has 100 nozzle's and it didn't really feel like a true rain experience as the water flow was more forceful rather than a gentle stream of rain.. I guess you had to be there as I can't put it into words. In conclusion Pfister has two different sets of thermostatic systems (not including the shower panels which I stay away from) the 7.0 gpm with the volume and temperature in one valve and the 12 gpm with seperate volume and temperature valves, Each system has separate styles of body sprays rain cans etc. I installed my own system and went with the 12 gpm system since I like the body sprays, rain cans etc. I believe the key is to have a good volume control and set up where as you can adjust it so that you can have 12 drops of water from a rain can/body spray fall per minute up to thousands per minute depending on your wants, needs, and desires. If I can be personal for a sec.....I like to trickle down the ceiling mount rain can down to around 1/4 volume to run down my back to keep my body.........hot, while I lather up. Since the rain can is ceiling mount I don't have to turn around, I simply lean forward or back to direct the water flow from the ceiling. Ok, too much info..........let's move on...........

For looped plumbing, all the jets have to be connected with a common pipe -pretty much a circle. Within that circle, the main supply from the pool equipment must "tie in" to that circle in 2 points equidistant to provide the same amount of water supply to each jet. If this is not done, one or more of the jets will have less flow. We follow this concept for spa jets on new construction. It gets challenging with an odd number of deck jets not placed together. Perhaps consider 4 jets -2 on either side or have the 3 jets on the one side. Still another option is to run individual lines to each jet and have valves at the equipment on all 3 to regulate and balance. A main valve before the 3 valve manifold allows you to shut them all off. That way your not re-balancing each jet when you want them to function.