konrad, not sure about letting the berries freeze on the tree, we've had plenty of freezes (low of 15 so far), and still leaves on the tree, and the berries not coming off the branches very easily. We'll see if the continuous cold of the freezer does the trick. larry gene, thanks for the additional info... Yes, the climate here is quite different than that of Oregon, things almost never rot on the tree, even rarely on the ground! Every branch I harvested from had last year's berries still on it, dried like raisins, and with a pretty good flavor too (does this mean the freezing to loosen the berries idea won't work -- I don't know). Bradybb, that's quite a bit heavier on the juice than what I did, I wonder if that's the difference. I like the ratio I used because it tastes great and stretches the berries. I will admit that after tasting the fresh berries, I was expecting something like you describe, with some off flavors, but was pleasantly surprised by the finished juice. It seems like the plant is worth growing even without appreciating the berries, for it's nitrogen fixation, bee forage, toughness and ornamental qualities.

Although I really don't have great credentials or special taste buds, consider this for your citrus craving/growing............Thomasville Citrangequat- I have 2 trees that are 10+ years old. I don't use the green fruit, but the mature yellow/orange fruit are pleasant to eat freah. They are a lot milder than grapefuit, not leaving the sour aftertaste. They are mildly sweet with enough acid. I think of them like eating a semi-sweet, orange-flavored lemon. Nothing like clarity. The trees are productive ,grow in clay, are nourished by mulch only, and have stiff 2" thorns that are a terror. I clip them off. The mature fruit will eventually become dehydrated if they hang around too many weeks. If you eat grapefruit, these won't be a challenge to eat. There is no funky component to the flavor.Because they produce a lot of fruit that don't get eaten, I grafted Brown Select satsuma and Hamlin orange buds/scions to several of the branches at a height of about 7 feet in 2009. I heard a local speaker declare that there is a theory that grafting high on a citrus trunk can provide a greater cold tolerance to the grafted branches. Well, these 8 month old new shoots were exposed to a January 2010 short-lived low temp of 14 degrees....and neither tree had any windbreak, plastic, mulch/dirt mound, gloves, or long johns. Results? One of 5 Brown Select branches died, and both Hamlin branches survived. That is plenty cold hardy enough for me to believe the 'theory'.(Side note: I also topworked 2 old sour orange tree branches at about 7 ft with BC2 satsuma and Brown Select satsuma in 2009.....all 10 Brown s. survived and 7 of 10 BC2 survived.)I imagine that with your protection strategy that the T.C. could be a survivor/producer. Maybe it would serve as a r/s also......If you enjoy lemons, then maybe a Sunquat could be considered. My 4 year old Sunquat has lemon-like fruit that average 2" to 2-1/2" diameter, and mulch is the only source of nutrients. It is in a mound of sandy soil and got no protection in that 14 degree thing. It defoliated about 15% of the leaves, and several thin newer twigs died, but that was all. Importantly, it produced a full load of fruit following the freeze. It is mild enough to eat as a lemon, and it doesn't have a funky taste component. The peel is edible, but not as tasty as kumquat peel to me. It is about 6 ft tall and wide. I saw one that was about 12 feet tall and full of fruit, but this one tends to do more branch-flopping than growing upright. There are 3 Meiwa kumquats here that are 10 years old, and they had 10% defoliation only.They produced a lot after. There is a 10+ year old Calamondin also, and it dropped 30%.It produced a lot after. The 10+ year old Armstrong satsuma lost 10%, as well as a few twigs.It had 60% fewer fruit after. The 3- 10+ year old Bloomsweet grapefruit lost 20% to 40% of the leaves, depending on which tree, and still fruited big time.If you have not eaten a Sunquat before, I would mail a couple to you. It tastes a lot like the Meyer 50% parent, but slightly better..........For those with the climate, etc. to grow the superior fruit, these may not be praiseworthy, but...they do have their place.Although not to be confused with ribeye steak,....they are a LOT better than canned Vienna sausage

Heruga, as Sammers says, you are more unlikely to burn the roots using a liquid fertilizer than a granular fertilizer unless you are using a slow release type such as Osmocote Plus that most of us use often in conjunction with Foliage Pro in case we don't have time to regularly feed with the Foliage Pro. The slow release fertilizers are encased in small pellets that release the fertilizer slowly over time. Often the release is linked to temperature so that as the temperature rises and plants are growing faster and need more nutrients, the nutrients are released faster. Originally when that technology was first used in hot climates the pellets would release too rapidly and burn the roots, but that problem has been worked out. Like Foliage Pro, Osmocote Plus has all the micronutrients citrus trees need too. You must get the Plus version to get the micronutients. Most fertilizers do not include the micronutrients. You can also use the Foliage Pro at 1/4 dosage and spray your leaves to green them up quickly if the plant is showing any nutrient deficiencies. Welcome to this gathering of Citrus fanatics. We have fun here and learn from each other. We like to see pictures, so don't be shy posting some of your tree or other interesting plants you may be growing along with your tree. Cory

Will there be citrus trees to purchase too? Do you have a list of what's available to taste and purchase?