Hinoki Cypress. Symptoms of Disease or Watering issue?
annztoo
3 years ago
This Hinoki has always been in a pot, with last upgrade in size about 3 years ago. I purchased it around 17 yrs ago as a small plant and it has been in both full sun and partial shade over the years. I want to put it in the ground this winter or next spring, but wonder if it needs some type of treatment. Or should I just get it in the ground asap.
It has always had some browning around new growth but last year it became worse, and didn't improve over the past summer. I've always been deligent about keeping it from getting too dry, but there were some lapses shortly after we moved last November.
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Comments (6)
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
3 years ago
gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Need advice! disease on Italian cypress "Totem"
Comments (6)i used to do roses... and all the spraying was one of the reasons i gave them up ... that and moving to an all sand property.. roses dont like sand ... lol ... since i fixated on both .... i would say.. the biggest difference.. is that trees do NOT need the heavy feeding that roses do .. and frankly.. even in my barren sand.. i NEVER fert trees... these are conifers.. but conifers are a subset of trees... and trees... once fully established... should be free range... never really needing anything ... bugs/disease aside .. but what is imperative.. is getting them ESTABLISHED ... after a transplant .. and that means getting the roots settled in and working... and that is accomplished thru deep watering.. thru the whole root mass planted.. and near drying in between ... conifers.. have a lot of needles.. to maintain..while repairing the insult ... i consider all trees... free range by year 3 ... with onoly watering in year 2.. in drought... presuming proper mulching ... i asked about potted.. because filed dug BB.. ball and burlap.. has its own set of problems.. as in cutting off too many roots ... potted stock.. on the other hand.. has its own problems of circling roots ... of which there are many old posts ... why one out of 6 failed.. who knows.. i am sure you are gardener enough.. that they should have all taken... but one didnt.. but 5 did .. so what ... it was.. most likely a stock issue... whatever it may have been ... i cant grow these.. but have not heard great things about them.. so i would definitely.. find other things.. for replacement ... i wish you luck ken...See MoreHinoki Cypress browning?
Comments (4)i suspect a water issue ... and it looks like sunburn ... i suspect a lack of water.. a while back ... during the hot season ... with conifers.. the injury.. can be months.. before the needles fail ... and sometimes.. even the season before... e.g. i can have winter wind burn .... but the evergreen needles dont brown until the heat of summer impacts the plants ability to pump enough water to the injured leaves ... i do NOT recommend cutting it off ... notice the growth tips are still alive ... unless you can predict how it will impact the trees growth ... in other words.. if this is the leader i would leave it.. need a pic of the whole ... you need a special media for trees in and you dont mention pot size ... if you can not make your own al's gritty mix [a GW fave] .... then i suggest a bagged cactus mix ... perhaps cut with a peat mix ... lets see a pic of the media you are using .... you say its drains well .. i want to know.. how much it retains .... peat is usually the variable .... finally ... they are not children.. they are not hungry ... this is not a food issue ... but.. because it is potted ... you may need A LITTLE fert once in a while ... but not in fall ... IMHO ... for sure finally .... i would not have this plant in full sun... in a pot.. on say.. cement patio.. during noon to 6 pm.. the heat of the day .... but i would have it in as bright a spot as i could... its all about.. how hot the pot and roots get ... where is yours kept??? ken...See MoreChamaecyparis obtust compacta (Hinoki Cypress) SIZE
Comments (25)Not necessarily. A symmetrical house does not require a similarly symmetrically planned garden to generate a coordinated look. It depends totally on how the entire landscape is approached as well as the greater context. In fact, a distinctly asymmetrical (and by extension, a more informal or casual) landscape plan can soften the starkness that often accompanies very symmetrical architecture. Like KarinL's, my own home is extremely symmetrical - a Cape Cod style with a perfectly centered entry flanked by identical windows spaced exactly the same on the facade. The only thing NOT symmetrical about the structure is its placement on the lot - one side yard is approximately double the width of the other. And the narrow side has (had) a slight slope to a lower level. When we purchased the house, the front landcaping consisted only of a large, diseased conifer at the crest of the slope, pretty much a blank slate. The rest was lawn, bisected by the front walk. After living with the symmetry for a number of years and planting pretty much to accommodate it, it struck me that the presentation was much too static and well, boring. The walk was ripped up, the entry to the garden was relocated well to one side and a gradually curved, wide meandering walkway was installed to lead you from this offset entrance to the front door. The mirror image patches of lawn were trashed and became deep, irregularly shaped planting beds. The only concession to symmetry is the proportion and balance of the planting masses. The effect now is a much more aesthetically interesting presentation. But these are indeed landscape design issues and perhaps more appropriately addressed in the appropriate forum. But it is important to remember that there are no hard "rules" when it comes to landscaping and just because one has a home with a very symmetrical appearance, it does not necessarily follow that the landscaping must echo that symmetry. I'd venture to say that you will have a far more interesting and successful landscape if it does not....See MoreOleander Disease / Insect Issues
Comments (8)It sounds like it might be Oleander Wilt Leaf Scorch, sometimes referred to as OWLS down here in South Texas. Here is a website with information on Oleander Leaf Scorch which states the following: Oleander Leaf Scorch Oleander leaf scorch is so widespread here that oleanders are no longer recommended in Lakeway. The bacterium Xylella fastidiosa clogs water conducting vessels, causing scorched dry leaf tips and margins, yellowing, leaf drop and often death. Early aggressive pruning can sometimes catch the infection before it spreads, but more often than not the bacteria will move rapidly to the roots and then up through the rest of the plant. Bacterial scorch can resemble heat scorch, so you may want to have your plants tested before taking drastic action. The Texas A&M Plant Disease Diagnostic Lab will test for Xylella for a $50 fee (http://plantpathology.tamu.edu/extension/tpddl/tpddl.asp). For more information, read the document below by Skip Richter, Travis County Extension Horticulturist: oleander_leaf_scorch_-_apr_05.pdf Be sure to read the article by Skip Richter at Oleander Leaf Scorch for more information. You might want to contact your County AgriLife Extension Service (formerly the Extension Office) for more information....See Moreannztoo
3 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoannztoo
3 years ago
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