I have currently researched and tried a couple solutions to this. I have found that the solutions given by professionals are wide ranging and very contradictory. First, be sure the answer is for OLD HORSEHAIR plaster. Many solutions are for plaster, which is different The options and contradictions given: 1. Use premixed joint compound. My friend did this totally successfully throughout her home 15 years ago- giving a skim coat of about 1/16" and sanding it smooth. And several professionals (at paint stores and on-line) have said this is the way to go. BUT, many contractors say NOT to do this because the plaster, if it is lime based, will resist the gypsum in the premixed drywall plaster and it will cause it to prematurely (within weeks or years) fail. I used it on one wall, and it dried nicely, but was not as solid as plaster or spackling compound. It primed and painted well, though, and the paint adhered well. So I am not convinced this is not a good solution. But time has not tested its permanence. 2. Use setting joint compound. I used this after talking to the people at USG about their products, and they said NOT to use the premixed, but to use the setting type. That it would adhere. I scraped it on thin onto one wall, but, as the person here suggested, I saw that it dried quickly, possibly before it had a chance toset. Then it would not be hard.. just a dried powder. Went back to USG and he said it needed to be at least 3/32” (who can measure that??) thick to insure it has time to set. I did the rest of the walls thicker. The next day, the walls were very patchy of darker and lighter grey. I went to wet sand, but the stuff just washed off. It seemed dry, and and about as hard/soft as the premixed, so I let it go.. but was concerned. The next day I primed it with 123 Zinsser primer. Two days later, put the gentlest tape on it to hold up a paint chip… and the paint peeled right off. Went back to the bag of compound, and noted that it said the product would get HOT when setting. My walls never got hot… or even warm. On my last batch, the plaster did not even set up in the bucket after 2 days.. it was still cool and moist. So I do not think it ever set. So I have primer over a layer of dust in a very difficult-to -paint stairwell. 3. Use Veneer plaster or Plaster of Paris. This I have not done. When I first started out a contractor said I should not use any type of joint compound, but this would be a harder, better surface. I bought the bag and was about to start, but then read that I would need to let it set for nearly 30 days before I could paint. Also, many sites say you need to use a plaster bonder between the two plasters. I found that the plaster bonder was not sold by anyone locally (I would think if it was so necessary, it would be carried), and it was going to be 2 weeks for me to get it. I suspect the idea solution is to use the plaster bonder, and then the veneer plaster. And go for the long time period. But I went the above routes after researching these other "options". In retrospect, 5 weeks later, I should probably have done this. 4. Durabond. I did not use this, but it is supposed to adhere to the horsehair plaster well. Only it is super hard to sand afterwards. My neighbor used it once in his house, then took the remainder of the bag to the dump as it was impossible to sand. He went with Plaster of Paris. 5. Spackling compound. This has not been suggested by anyone, but, after having gone through all the above, I think I will use spackling compound. It adheres to everything. Hardens well, Paints well. Is compatible with all surfaces. And since I am only scraping on the thinnest layer, although it is pricier, it is worth it in the long run. Does anyone know of a reason this would not work? I have 2 more rooms to go.

DO NOT paint over the paper.Removing it properly should in no way damage the plaster. I have removed thousands of yards of paper over plaster and in almost all cases it will come off fairly easily with a little work. Here are a couple links that will help. http://www.safeandsimple.com/ Here is a link that might be useful: removal

Yep... Definately get each estimate "broken-down" into specific steps. Put yourself into a Painters' shoes though... * They have overhead costs too: Gasoline, Insurances, etc. * It's fairly physical/tedious work- sanding, patching, washing, caulking, etc.... * Setting-up & tearing-down all kinds of equipment, * Overall...the best painters often don't have to advertise!!...and therefore are rarely the cheapest... If the walls haven't had any paint for a decade or more, you'd better be cleaning/priming those walls. Sounds like the trim will need at least SOME sanding. Faron

You could contact local plasterers and get an estimate. We had on in our house recently and they charged not as much as we expected.