I used this forum many years ago to help me pick a 30" RNB for our kitchen renovation. I've generally loved it even though it has not been trouble-free.

I'd been having problems as of late--burners weren't lighting reliably, the oven door was a bit skewed and not closing fully, leading to knobs that were hot to the touch (and extra oven cycling.) it was also in need of a good cleaning.

I removed a soaked the grates and scrubbed them clean. I took out all the burners and then looked at the inside of the rangetop. I had some accumulated dirt and grime. I suspect one of the problems with burner sparking was a difficult path to ground for the igniter sparks, so I made sure the brackets that held the burners were well-cleaned and had bare metal for the burner to touch.

I then attacked the burners themselves. After 12 years there is some minor rust on the burners, but the bigger issue was accumulated grime that again was probably preventing the spark from jumping. The worst was probably on the simmer burner--which doesn't get as hot so doesn't burn off debris as frequently. I used a razor blade to scrape a greasy film off the top of the burner, as well as the burner holes adjacent to the igniter. I poked through every burner hole with a toothpick, and turned the burners over and tapped and shook them, where quite a bit of reddish-black dust came out (I assume this is a combination of carbonized debris and burner rust.

I put everything back together (making sure the ingniter wire sockets were not touching metal--I have had this prevent ignition) and tested the burners. All the burners ignited with one or two clicks of the igniter; except for the simmer burner which took 3 or 4 clicks.

Then to the oven door. I tried removing the door by opening the clips and lifting the door out, but apparently on the 2008 vintage oven it does not work that way. I could not get the hinges to lift out fully, but I did just enough to prevent the door closing properly. I was worried I had messed things up badly but after quite a bit of playing around I was able to get the hinges to reseat and the door to close as it was. The right side was still sticking out though. Several years ago I had warped the oven door due to stuck hinges. I now religiously lubricate the hinges and they have been smooth, and I was able to mostly unskew the door by using a clamp to bend the metal back into alignment, but over time the metal on the right side had again warped a bit. A new application of the clamp to push the metal back into place now has the door closing flush across the entire top. I confirmed it was working properly by noting the knobs were no longer too hot to touch during oven operation.

So now the range is operating well and the thorough cleaning (I also cleaned the front kickplate under the oven door, and gave the exterior a good wipedown. I recently cleaned the interior so it's still good) makes it nice and shiny.

However, I still have some longer-term concerns. I have replaced two of the igniters and probably need to replace the other two. But the screws holding the igniters are rusted, and you don't get replacements with an igniter kit. Even if you do, at least one of the burners has rust such that the screw hole may not work for a new igniter screw. It was a lot of effort and some improvisation to get the screws to hold on the two I did replace. I'd have to replace burner heads at that point. The 2008 oven door has issues and a very small window, so sometime it will stop working, and the cost of repairing it probably isn't cost effective on a 12 year old appliance. I have eyes on a Platinum Series range to replace this one--I know some of the issues have been improved although there are stories of some challenges. But the cooking performance is still outstanding, and I have been able to rehab things enough to keep my range going for a while longer.