Will a small garden bed work indoors, with fish, waterfall, stream
bob lee
3 years ago
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Comments (29)
bob lee
3 years agoPatricia Colwell Consulting
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Indoor gardening due to climate
Comments (21)I've had fairly good luck with growing indoors under fluorescent lamps, I use 4 4' 32watt t8 bulbs, half cool white and the other half warm white. I've been able to grow to fruit bell peppers, jalapeño peppers, habanero peppers, banana peppers, just about every type of herb, patio tomatoes, cherry red or super sweet 100 (trained to grow around a cage). I've also got a pretty good onion batch/strawberries growing (however slow). Also some lettuce and spinich has done really well. I would say that i've tried my luck at cucumbers but so far they've had some troubles, but i'm not giving up yet. If you want to be serious, get a 250 watt HPS system (~160 bucks) and a couple of 4' 32+ watt cool white fluorescent lamps (~30 bucks) This will give you more than enough light for a 3x3 to 5x5 indoor garden for just about anything you can put in a container (including the cukes). The cost of running this (at least in utah) is around 8 cents per kilowatt/hr, nationally i think its more around 13 centers per kilowatt/hr. My costs usually around 5 dollars a month, with the HPS + 4' 32watt flouro you may end up with a cost of around 11 dollars a month in electricity running the lights for 16 hours a day....See MoreIdeas for a small indoor (office) trellis?
Comments (11)Thanks! The flat pine boards around the frame are actually about 1/4" to the right of the vertical inside boards, and then painted, so you can see that inside seam, and if I were to put even panelling nails in, they'd show. :( BUT...I might be able to get away with pounding in some straight-pins, which I've used to hang small pictures & accessories at home, so would imagine that they'd hold a bit of fishing line tied to them on the outside edge. (Pounded into the seam where it meets the sheetrock). I may also be able to use push-pins...you know...put up some memos that I never read as though they are reference materials...hehe BUT...I think I can definitely work with the jam-fit rod(s) and some fishing line! I could put one vertical, and one horizontal, and make a 'grid' with the fishing line so the plant covers a portion of the upper-corner of the window. The mini-blind is mounted RIGHT AGAINST THE WINDOW, so putting behind is also not an option >:( Thank you SO much for the ideas! I knew I could count on this group!...See More8 by 11 fott pond with small stream and falls
Comments (26)Thanks for the nice compliments. I love to share my pond, as I am sure we all do. I wish that you all could come on over and see it up close and personal. I have gotten so much inspiration from all the wonderful postings on the garden web. Yes the yellow flower is a marsh marigold. It truly is at it's best right now. I have to cut it down by the end of June, by then it looks terrible....See Moreponds and streams
Comments (20)Wonderful primer in thermoplastics vs reaction cured cross linked polymers Evelyn. This all seems to miss the chance to provide some practical advice however. Yes HDPE is used widely for large scale projects. The reason is isn't used by homeowners or small gardens is that it takes special (expensive) equipment to carefully melt and reseal the seams used to join small pieces into big ponds. HDPE is the same "visqueen" material that is widely used for everything from throw away dropcloths to shipping bags. When thick enough (and High Density enough) to act as a geotextile material, it gets stiff, hard to handle and hard to seam. And you won't find it at the Home Depot. So if you are Rowdy Yates and have a back 40 to work with, good luck. If you are building a pond that big and looking for advice on the internet, you will need some luck. EPDM is widely used by homeowners and small commercial installations because it works well and is widely available. It is made for the commercial roofing industry and works great (for 20 or 30 years, even in direct sunlight). They leave out the biocide used in roofing to kill moss (who would want to do such a thing?) and sell it as pond liner. It works because it is saggy and conforms well to uneven bottoms, just like that underwear. It is also available in wide widths and can be glued by an average homeowner with nothing more than his glue tube. Not the premium choice, but hands down the most popular. Go to the Ponds forum and see how many people use it - nearly all. The problem with any liner is achieving a satisfactory slope to the pond walls. Pond people, and Japanese Garden Pond people are included, hate losing fish to predators, and the best deterrent is steep slopes to the sides. Not easy with liners. And nobody wants any liner showing above the waterline, but without good design and engineering, it usually happens. I have seen a lot of liner showing at public and private water features that spent a lot of money on water recirculation and filtration etc. but didn't get the basics covered. The liner has to be buried well below the dirt, rocks and other edging. Easy to damage any liner if you don't know what you are doing, so many ponds have a sort of gravelly slope that tries to hide the liner. Not very attractive. If you have enough water or course, it doesn't matter much what your pond is lined with. This is the Kyoto approach, limited nowadays by constraints on those endless supplies of clean water. Bentonite falls in the middle ground - not really a waterproof membrane, but it can slow down the leakage rate to an acceptable level if applied and maintained correctly. First you start with a sheepsfoot roller... (Evelyn's clue to ask why you would roll their little feet) I agree with Edzard's comments on bentonite and moving water - just the wrong application. If you have an acre of pond bottom and clay soil, get some local help and give it a try, but it isn't good for streams. There must be a reason the majority of good JG's in the US and Japan use cement where they don't have a natural water body. It does work, isn't all that difficult to design, can be fixed, and lasts a long time if built well. Plenty of house foundations are expected to last a hundred years. and they see freezing cycles on the outside and heat inside - worse than many ponds. It just seems like a big undertaking for most people, and is admittedly too expensive for really big projects. And you are much more likely to get a natural looking edge if you build in a rock shelf with reinforced concrete. Of course you can also have a gradual slope and a pebble beach, but they usuall end up being raccoon and heron dining rooms. Another key issue with liners, natural ponds, and cement is the whole water treatment/filtration question. Acre plus ponds can become naturalized with a low fish load and a high tolerance for turbidity. Everybody else needs some water treatment, and with koi that means bottom drains and skimmers. No way around it, and it adds another challenge to both liners and cement. There is one other alternative. If you have a very loose grasp of appropriate priorities, you can find a natural canyon (courtesy of the Wisconsin glaciation) in impervious granite bedrock, excavate everything that doesn't look like a pond and fill it. Good luck to all with your water features....See Morerina_Ontario,Canada 5a
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bob leeOriginal Author