Shiloh Cabinetry - Inset vs. Full Overlay? Who has them?
helaurin93
3 years ago
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Comments (41)
MDLN
3 years agoCeladon
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Full overlay, Inset or Faux Inset Overlay?
Comments (11)Don't feel you have to enforce vertical symmetry with the need to line the coolers up with the stacked bottles. If slightly wider ones are cheaper and would work, the go with that without a qualm. And i think having them the same dimension actually weakens the overall design, a bit. You'll notice that in colored picture, the bottle stack and the cooler doors don't line up, and it still looks well-balanced. Notice, too, that there's even an optical illusion-created discordance between the stacked bottle rack on the right and the strongly vertical-orientation of the glass-paneled doors to the left on the other side of the TV. So just making those two sides match didn't result in an eye-sweet balance, no matter what the tape measure may say. In your case, I think the strong apparent verticality of the coolers' slab doors may make them seem narrower than they actually are, creating a top heavy look to the wine racks above. This violates the general sense we have that things should be bolder, and stronger-appearing on the base, and successive layers should get lighter, narrower, smaller, or whatever. In our second drawing, with the coolers moved inward, the optical-illusion of their narrowness is resolved. Also it may just be artefacts of the layout but the D-shaped raised trim pattern on the sides of the narrow lower doors strikes me as unattractive. Also door hinging should be book-matched, or disguised to look that way. HTH L....See MoreFull Overlay - Partial Overlay -or- Inset Cabinets
Comments (26)There is really no fundamental difference in strength between framed and framless cabinets. Poorly-built frameless cabinets will be less sturdy than well-built face-framed cabinets, and well-built frameless cabinets will be more sturdy than poorly built face-framed cabinets. Regarding your statement: I see that the small frame in the kitchen reduces very slightly the useable space in terms of installing drawers or pullout shelves, but it's not a significant difference. Some GW poster put together a comparison between frameless and face-framed and the differrence is alot more than than you would think at first. (Anyone got the link ?) For illustration purposes they compared a 12" wide base cabinet in the two styles, and assumed 3/4" thick box construction, 1/2" thick drawer boxes, 1/2" wide side mounted slides, and 2 inch face frames. With frameless the drawers ended up with an usable internel width of 12 - 2 x (3/4 + 1/2 + 1/2) = 8 1/2" vs for face-framed the drawers ended up with an usable internel width of 12 - 2 x (2 + 1/2 + 1/2) = 6" So if you want the full-overlay look, my opinion is you should go with frameless cabinets. Also regarding your daughter slamming the doors, I have seen posts about something called "blumotion for doors" which attach to the hinges (which I believe must be blum brand) which eases the door closed....See MoreFull Overlay or Inset cabinets?
Comments (6)Actually inset, done well has more storage than overlay framed, but less than frameless. "Done well" = combined cabinets to eliminate some of the stiles, 2" ears in corners instead of 3" fillers, in a better line ( upper middle) the intermediate rails on drawer bases can be eliminated gaining height as well, wall cabinets should be at least 13 making interior depth equal, many have standard 13.5 or 14 walls. Value priced brands include Showplace, Shiloh, Medallion. Best priced I've run into is Eastman Street; only in the Northeast, no exposed hinges, and no combined cabinets, just prices really well....See Morecost difference inset vs. full overlay.
Comments (17)To me, the higher "cost" of inset isn't the dollar amount exactly. It's the lost space as compared to frameless. Drawers lose at least 1-1/2 of interior space compared to frameless - it doesn't sound like a lot, but go look at your drawers and imagine all of them 1-1/2" narrower. And for upper cabinets, if you are going to do inset, a 15" depth is a must, rather than the standard 12" depth. That 15" depth will of course increase your cost, but there are many posts on this forum of homeowners dismayed that their dinner plates don't fit in their 12" deep inset uppers, which have only about 10-1/2" of actual shelf depth. Tdesanti - go measure your dinner plates. And your glassware diameters too, because 12" deep inset uppers will fit maybe two rows of glassware. Also, if you don't get top quality inset cabinets, and your climate has large swings of humidity and heat and cold, you risk sticking drawers, as inset has less tolerance for changes in humidity....See Morehelaurin93
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