As the others mentioned, the green stuff is the larvas poop, not eggs. If you only have a few plants you don't need to spray bt, just find the larva and squash them. Once you know what to look for, they're easy to spot and kill. -Mark

The term "fungus" can be misleading. This is more of a catch-all term for disease. Mushrooms are not indicative of turf disease per-se. When I said moisture, I was referring more to overnight damp conditions, heavy dew, humid nights etc. These things combined with free Nitrogen and poor draining root-zones can lead to many diseases. The only way to absoluteley prevent these diseases is applying a foliar spray of systemic fungicide containing chlorothalonil. I'm sorry to say this is labor-intensive and pricey. These disease controls like Daconil must be applied every 14 days from the beginning of June through October without exception. Add Pythium into the mix and you really have a problem. Since you state it is a re-occurring problem, I will assume that it re-occurrs in the same areas every summer. If this is the case, it may be Pythium Root Dysfunction which is a by-product of un-checked Pythium Blight. Again, I'm not sure if Tru-Green or Chem-Lawn can even spray for Pythium. If they do, it's probably going to be prohibatively expensive. There is no "green-friendly" solution to these problems, so don't waste your time with Ed Begley Jr. type solutions. If you do not want this problem next season, Core Aerify your turf soon. Rake the plugs off of the turf and fill the holes (by topdressing) with sand. Start applying Daconil every 14 days at 4 ounces per 1000 sq. feet. Wait one week and get on a 14 day schedule with Bayer Aliette for the Pythium. (also 4ounces). It won't cure the Pythium you have (if that's what it is) but it will prevent it from spreading. In the spring your turf will recover, but you must start the spray program in June. Alot of work and alot of money I know, but if you truly want a perfect lawn.......

I had stated previously to another person, I have installed porcelain tile in my dbl wide and hardwood. In the family room rather than using backerboard, I just used the tarpaper (roofing paper) and then put the thin set on top. It is a moisture barrier and trade-show trick - you can remove the tile later without tearing up the entire subfloor by jack-hammer. You need to nail the backer board/hardy board to the sub floor about every 6-10 inches / then seal the cracks with tape which is made for doing just this type of thing. For installing hardwood, you do not need to put additional flooring on top of the subfloor if you are using adhesive rather than nailing. Hope this helps also.

I have spent the entire day doing more research in this forum, helpmefind and concerning what happened to my roses. I definitely do think I damaged more than the DARes - with that extra spray routine I did on Monday with Daconil and Malathion. The reason is that I sprayed a lone climber far away from the rose garden and when I checked it this morning - it had the same burnt at the edge of the leaf look to a couple of it's leaves. It is Climbing Blaze and really only two leaves looked burnt. I have just about decided to no longer even spray for insects and would like to think I could do the same for fungus/black spot. Unfortunately - I had another problem crop up today. I posted pictures in another thread of my round Drift garden (3 years old) and the damaged buds on every bush. This happened literally overnight. I am waiting for opinions from this same forum and hope you all will go take a look. I fear spider mites. I am sure no animal ate the tops of these tiny buds out - a rabbit would have to be pretty crafty and agile to manage getting just the tops and not damaging any branches. I also have read so much about using oils - but not to use them if the temperature gets too hot - well, it was 85 here the last two days. I will NOT be spraying malathion or Daconil anymore - these leaves look so messed up and I only can hope that the bushes will recover. i am still getting yellowing at the bottoms of many of my bushes and pulling off the yellow leaves as they drop or turn completely yellow. I did water with a strong stream every bush this morning - thinking that possibly some of the insecticide/fungicide spray I sprayed on Monday would possibly be removed. Thank you everyone for any advice and attention you have given this issue. I know I am having beginners problems and with my bare root garden - if they can just make it to growing a healthy root system - maybe they will survive all of this. The dirt was prepared very well by my husband - who is a total green thumb and Biologist - but he says roses are over his head!! Thank you! Denise