You can either decide to direct the "aerial" roots down into the pot, let them grow wherever they want, or cut them off. In their native rainforest of Yucatan, the aerial roots help anchor them into surrounding plants/trees and help them climb into the forest canopy. Believe it or not, even the common philodendron (cousin to the monstera) does this. I had one in a north facing window and the vines formed aerial roots and started to attach themselves to the wall (like ivy) and start climbing the walls. I let them do this for a while because I found it so interesting and was pleased the plant loved its location. (Also made me aware of a moisture problem with the wall to begin with). Moral of the story is that you may want to provide some sort of supportive structure for the weight of the vines.--They can grow to massive proportions given the right conditions. I'll leave it up to your ingenuity to design a support. As a general rule of thumb, I do not like to translant anything into a pot larger than 1.5 times the existing size. If that sunroom of yours gets chilly in the winter(below 60 F), watch your watering. I have kept tropicals in an unheated sunroom that would be in the 55-65 degree range in the winter but you have to reduce watering if it gets that chilly (monsteras are really pretty drought tolerant). PS. Did you know that the mature Monstera produces a tasty fruit in the tropics. Good luck!

I bought a split leaf 2 years ago at a yard sale for $2. When I got it, there was only 2 small leaves. Since then, I would say it is about 3 1/2 - 4 ft tall and about 7-8 ft in diameter. There are so many leaves:) I love it, but I need to prune it back some because after I transplanted it into a new pot, the leaves are pointing in different directions and some of them are upside down now. I have tried to prop them up to face the right way, but I am afraid of breaking the thin stock. For some reason, their branches are thicker than the base. So, how would I go about pruning the leaves back? Do I just cut them where I would want it, or is there a certain spot on the branch, base, or what I call (conjunction-a cluster of branches from one place)? I won't do anything to it until I know it won't hurt it. This thing likes to grow fast!!! I can almost guarantee that I won't be able to find this place again on the web, so if you know the answer to my question, please email me at cpenena@hotmail.com. Very much appreciated.

Hi Sheri! If the plant is truly Monstera deliciosa it isn't a Philodendron at all. The genus Monstera contains 33 to 36 or so species depending on the scientific source quoted. There are many scientific names in the genus but almost all have been sunk into synonymy with a much smaller number of accepted species names. It sounds as if you've done your homework already since you know the name of the botanist that originally published the plant or at least his abbreviated name so I'd say you actually have that species. Monstera deliciosa has a number of natural variations and some produce leaves that remain very small for the entire life of the plant. I was recently given a cutting from a 20 year old plant the the largest leaves weren't 12 inches wide. Philodendron is a very large genus with something close to 1000 species divided into three major sections but that is a totally different discussion. The same common name is used for Philodendron bipinnatifidum (P selloum) since it has multi-lobed leaf margins (edges). Even if the plant were P. bipinnatifidum the growth method is basically the same. It sounds as if your growing conditions are good for Monstera deliciosa since it is very tolerant. I doubt you can over water it since it naturally grows along steam banks in southern Mexico and most of Central America. However, the soil mixture may not be good for this species. Monstera require a very fast draining soil so if you have it in Mississippi clay the roots may not be able to freely grow and gather water and nourishment. The other possible cause would be either lack of or over fertilization. Either is just as bad. Most commercial growers prefer something like Osmocote 30-30-30 for large aroids. If the soil is good I'd try the fertilizer first. If the soil has not been amended I would suggest you mix a large quantity of moisture control potting soil with about 20% peat moss and add a BUNCH of cypress mulch. If you can find a bag of cheap orchid bark with charcoal add that as well along with any compost you can find. I know it may be a big job but if you dig the plant up and replant it in this mix it should begin to thrive. My big question is the weather in your area. Although Monstera deliciosa will likely survive, it will be temporarily stunted by extreme cold. The species is not know to do great much north of Orlando so keep that in mind. You can shield it from the cold during any really cold nights but try to keep it from long exposure. You should know this species craves to climb. I have several large specimens in my own atrium and one is now 10 feet up the nearest tree. I've seen them in the tropics and in South Florida at least 50 feet into the canopy and have read of them climbing much higher. Other than that, without photos to examine I'm not sure what other advice to offer.

She's a gorgeous Monstera! The holes in the leaves are the clue, Philodendron bipinnatifidum and xanadu don't do that. I can't see them in your pic, but the petioles (leaf stems) should have an observable geniculum (joint.) http://www.exoticrainforest.com/Monstera%20deliciosa%20large%20pc.html I don't have any experience with this plant to help guide you, or a clue why the new leaf looks like that, but plenty of others around here do. Good vibes to your pretty new plant!