moja - what lead you to the conclusion that BSH was sourcing their coffee machines from Electrolux? The machines don't look at all similar to me, and certainly not a direct re- badge. Also, it would be VERY uncharacteristic of a huge multi-national like Bosch going to another for something they could do in house. Now the machines under the Bosch, Gaggenau and Thermador labels are petty much the same unit sans badges. I'm also thinking that the BSH offerings were around long before Electrolux even offered a system for sale. Thinking I put one in or project manager's condo around 05' when they had just come out. FWIW - Dacor's unit was made for them by Kuppersbusch and it looks to me like the Elux one is very very similar to it right down to 8 selection buttons with exactly the same features butoon for button. Perhaps the biggest giveaway in my mind is the blue lighting they all share. No one else's units have that and it's kinda been a signature look of Kuppersbusch fro the start. I'll also hazzard a guess that Elux may well bring in a unit from their AEG division to take this thing's place. I'm supposing it's a UL approval issue, and Kbusch has long rebadged their units for others and has UL approval already in place.

First of all, stop trying to second guess the oven and using temperatures different from recipes. It won't help you. Wekick raises a very good question: "How do things bake?" It is ridiculous to expect any oven, no matter how high end, to reach the exact set temperature and stay there without changing. I may be wrong, and please correct me if this is the case, but it sounds like from your initial post you're trying to solve a problem that doesn't exist. This reminds me of when people try to raise the water level in their front load washers after buying without first answering the question "Are the clothes clean?" >"I was told that the oven temperature would vary by 10 degrees after reaching the set point of 370" Seems like you misinterpreted their statement. You seem to think the temperature will only go above the set point and then go back down to it. This is not the case. The temperature will vary above and below the set temperature. So a swing of 10 degrees means that it would drop down from 375 to 370, then heat up to 380, then drop down to 370, and so on - so the average temperature, is 375 if you punch in 375! In reality it will probably not operate EXACTLY like this, but that is probably what they were trying to tell you it is supposed to do. They might have also meant it will vary 10 degrees above and below, not just 10 degrees overall. So, it drops from 375 to 365, then goes up to 385, and so on. Either way, the average temp is the same, and swings of either magnitude are quite small compared to most ovens. >"I looked (without opening the door) at my new oven thermometer (set on the middle shelf on the left side of the oven near the light). My oven thermometer read 325 degrees. At 26 minutes my oven thermometer read 370. At 30 minutes my oven thermometer read 375 degrees. At 50 minutes my oven thermometer read 380 degrees. At 60 minutes my oven thermometer read 385 degrees." Again, you're second guessing the oven. When you open the door to put in food, the temperature drops by a ton and then the oven has to work to recover back to your set point. I can't say whether this is the case for this particular oven, or if it is just due to a normal temperature swing, but many ovens will heat to higher than the set temperature during the initial preheat to minimize the amount it drops below the set point when the door is opened. Then, once you put in the food, it will heat back up to your set point. Had you opened the door, I bet the temperature would have stayed closer to your set point after the oven recovered from the door opening. Wekick again makes a very good point about preheating. When the buzzer sounds, that doesn't necessarily mean the oven is ready for food. The Wolf website explains why long preheating is important : "With basic preheating, the air temperature in the oven is raised and the preheat temperature is reached very quickly. However, immediately after the preheat is complete, the oven temperature begins to drop because the racks, walls, as well as the bottom and top of the oven start to absorb the heat due to the fact they are not at the same temperature as the air inside the oven. Full cavity preheating brings the temperature of the oven components, as well as the air in the oven up to the same temperature. Assuring that once the preheat temperature is reached, it remains constant, with no drop off." >"I looked (without opening the door) at my new oven thermometer (set on the middle shelf on the left side of the oven near the light)." Is the oven's temperature sensor on the middle shelf onthe left side of the oven near the light? Again even in high performing ovens like the Wolf, temperatures will vary slightly throughout the cavity and you should never expect your oven thermometer to match exactly what the oven thinks. My suggestion: ditch the oven thermometer and trust the oven electronics. Just punch in the temperature on the recipe and try baking for the amount of time on the recipe. If, after that amount of time, the results aren't as you like, come back here and elaborate on what went wrong? Did they bake too quickly? Too slowly? Too much on the tops/bottoms? Unevenly between different parts of the oven? Etc. THEN you'll get advice more along the lines of what you're looking for. This post was edited by hvtech42 on Wed, Aug 27, 14 at 21:07

Judy, We ended up changing things around. We lowered the XXL steam oven so that it ended at 42" AFF, allowing us to put a full size drawer below it and started the coffee maker at 42", ending at 60". This allowed us to put a very usable cabinet above the coffee maker with two sliders so that we could reach the back of what would now be a 24" deep cabinet. As with everything it is trade-offs. I think if there were no other considerations at all the ideal height is more or less 42" to 60" and my thought was that bending a bit to use the oven was worth having the coffee maker easily accessible and in optimal location. Having said that, I think ending it at 6' is perfectly fine and if we had gone w/ the regular 18" size oven I am sure we would have done that. Once we went to 24", cabinet wise, it was much easier to either do one full size cabinet below (ending coffee maker at 5') or to keep the oven at counter height and end the coffee maker at 6'-6", which by all accounts was too high. In between was problematic.

Let me tell you my tale of woe which is still increasing my blood pressure even tonight. For the past 5 days, my house has been inundated with some type of small flies; maybe drain flies, but I have a coffee angle as well. This morning, I used the foot peddle on a plastic Rubbermaid trash receptacle in the kitchen........there must have been at least 25 in the garbage and many flew out all over my kitchen and dining room. I had noticed most seeming to come from the kitchen sink/drains, so I used the foaming disposal/drain cleaner at least twice, but that had no impact. I made coffee as usual this morning, using my Cuisinart 12-cup coffee maker, although I just make one cup and use paper filters and some organic ground coffee. I didn't really look "into" the coffee maker this morning, but I had just run vinegar and water through it the other day for the auto-clean cycle, which it really needed. Like some others in this thread have mentioned, I don't think that the standard cleaning touches every opening within the coffee maker where moisture may be allowed to linger. Later in the day, it appeared that many of these flies were around my coffee maker........to my horror, when I opened the lid on top, there must have been 15 or 20 inside the coffee maker. Even after I rinsed it out and attempted to dry it off, more flies were landing on it. It was like a horror film. I tried putting into two plastic grocery bags, since I didn't have a single bag big enough, and I shortly realized that there were flies getting into the bags like the coffee maker was a magnet. I then cleaned the coffee maker in the sink, and cleaned the canister as well and hand dried each and put the coffee maker into two other plastic bags and put it in my home office at the other end of my house. I put the canister in a separate bag and tied the top and did the same with the basket. (as I type this, there are flies landing on my hands and arms......Alfred Hitchcock can't be far away) I would guess that I have killed about 100 of these flies in the past 4 days and still am not entirely sure where they came from, but I have read that drain flies breed and hatch every 48 hours and I seem to just keep coming. If these things were in my coffee maker this morning, I must have ingested a lifetime's worth. I seem to have two sizes of these flies and the only way to kill any of them is when the land on the counter. When they are flying, it is extremely hard to kill them. I believe they are attracted to carbon dioxide, because they have flown into my eyes, nose and mouth. They sound like mosquitos when they fly near my ears. I may try the apple cider vinegar and dish soap idea before going to bed shortly, but I'm afraid that I wake up with even more tomorrow. I have read that you can add some sugar to this mixture as well. The dish soap is important. Since I could not eat lunch or dinner today because so many were landing on my food and plates, and I had to throw food away, this is really taking its toll. They are going into my kitchen cabinets and have tried to get into the microwave. I am putting many scraps that might have gone into the garbage into separate bags and tying them off. There is no open food or waste in my kitchen. I even sprayed flying bug spray into the garbage when I discovered the infestation there and it made no difference.....nothing kills these things........help !!! UPDATE: I used two suggestions found online that seem to help. One is to build a simple fly trap using apple cider vinegar and dish soap in a cup/container and put plastic wrap on top, secure with a rubber band and poke some small holes in the top with a toothpick. Flies get in; can't get out. Other thing is the suggestion to use a spray bottle and fill with water and dish soap. You can zap flies when they land somewhere and it makes it easier to kill them. Run water and disposal more frequently to make sure there is no "organic matter" that can attract more flies.