Most semi custom cabinet lines will do extended depth cabinets for about a 15% upcharge. My sink base was free so I think I paid another $150 for the extended depth of 27 inches (almost 30 inches with overhangs). Ditto what rosie said about the overhangs. 27 inches deep in cabinets means 29.5 inches deep (1.25 standard overhang x 2 sides)with countertops. Also, the farm sink will protrude the depth of the overhang too (or more if you want it to). As far as the faucet placement goes..., most apron sinks are 18 inches deep which means the faucet will have more inches behind it then an undermount because the sink protrudes. I have a 27 inch deep base cabinet with a farm sink and my faucet is about 10 inches from the wall. So your faucet will not be right on the end of the countertop. I do want to add (since I made this mistake) to make sure your aisles are wide enough. Mine are 39 inches and they are way too narrow. 48 is really a minimum, especially where dishwashers and sinks are since they will be pretty high traffic areas.

As PractiGal said, using cabinets however you need them is fine. But, I question the usefulness of an 11" overhang except for very small children - and children stay very small for a very, very short time. In fact, children remain child-sized for a surprisingly short time! By the pre-teen to early teen years, most children require adult-sized features! So, why plan for something that will shortly not be very useful? (11" overhang = 24" overhang - 12"D cabinets - 1" door) Instead, why not just build a counter against the wall that's 15" to 18" deep and have a more comfortable overhang? It would be far more versatile over time and even now you might find it useful for adult-sized people! If you want the extra storage, then consider, instead, either: Flanking the seating with 9" to 12" wide x 24"D pullout tall cabinets and having just counter b/w them or Going ahead with the plans for using upper cabinets, but increasing the overhang to 15" beyond the cabinets + doors How many children do you have? BTW...have you checked IKEA cabinets? They're probably less expensive than even the Home Depot cabinets.

I had to replace one of my cabinets in my island when we found the oven wouldn't fit in the cutout space (even though I did hand in all the specs). What we did was carefully support the soapstone counter on several sides with a jack and wood supports, used a putty knife to slice the caulk (or whatever it is) and slide the wrong sized cabinet out. We slid the new one in immediately without a problem. My floor is installed under all my cabinets though so that made it easier. If your floor is installed around the cabinet and the cabinet is sitting lower on the subfloor, then you would have to remove the floor in the surrounding area to slide it out. I don't know about the support requirements for your stone but obviously that is a priority so don't shrink the cabinet without making sure it is properly supported.

Okay, here you go. I estimated dimensions for the room, walls and windows so you'll need to adjust the plan to fit the actual measurements. I shifted the peninsula towards the left wall so that you'll have counter within 48" - 51" of the 15"d and 12" d pantry cabs for grocery unloading. The seating overhang will be framed by the FR opening similar to the last peninsula photo I posted above. I reduced the peninsula by 1" to accommodate stock cab sizes. The top cabinet is a 24" base cab, placed 3" from the end (to allow room to open the cab door) and facing the pantry cabs. Use this for seldom used items such as holiday platters, turkey roaster, etc. I reduced the sink cab from 39" to 36" (standard sink cab size), eliminated the 6" cab and increased the cab to its right by that much. I added a 15" drawer base between sink and peninsula. You'll have approx 11"-12" interior width. This would be a good spot for dish towels. The sink is about 1 1/2" off center of the window (per my estimates) but that's such a small amount for such a large window, that it won't be noticeable. Pushing the peninsula to the left made room for a longer island and a slighter wider aisle between range run and island. I left the aisle between peninsula and island the same since there's only cabinets opening on one side of the aisle. I added a trash pull-out at the end, convenient to prep area and clean up area. I placed the prep sink on the left end, next to trash, but also to leave as much counter as possible for prep nearest the range and for landing space for fridge items and grocery bags. This does mean that you'll have a longer walk to drain a pot of pasta. I spec'd a 45" aisle between sink run and island so that you'll have enough room to have the DW door open at the same time as island drawers. That makes unloading clean dishes much easier. Here's my 45" aisle between sink run and island: Aisle measurements are counter to counter. Not sure I stated that earlier. Base cabinets are spec'd to be drawer bases save for the sink cabinets, trash pull-out and base cabinet at the top end of the peninsula. Okay, it's homework time for you. Mentally go through the motions of making a meal, cleaning up, putting away groceries, entertaining, etc in the above plan. Imagine these tasks when you're by yourself in the kitchen and when there are multiple cooks/helpers. Do your kitchen tally, grouping items by use and determining how much storage space they need and the best location for storing these items. I marked out drawer widths with blue painter's tape on my counters, setting items inside the imaginary drawers. You'll need to find out from your cabinet supplier for interior drawer width measurements. You'll likely have 3" - 4" less interior width than the cabinet measurement. For instance, I have 18" interior width for my 21" drawer bases. Allow some wiggle room in the plan. The plan: The result: Adjust the above plan to suit your needs, then review the plan with a CKD (Certified Kitchen Designer) before moving ahead. Given the problems with the plan you shared above, I don't think the person who drew that up is the right person for the job. I can't imagine an experienced KD designing a plan with less than 36" aisles between counters. If you find that you need more pantry storage, consider adding between stud pantry space on the bottom wall, like this: FYI, they will eat up an inch or two of aisle space but that may be a good trade-off to gain more storage space.