Carpet to LVP or hardwood

3 years ago

Replacing all upstairs carpet (bedrooms, hallway) and need help deciding what to put in its place ... LVP or some kind of hardwood. Also, the stairs are an issue if LVP is selected and may have to just re-carpet them ... other suggestions?

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SJ McCarthy

3 years ago

The Delta IIC 22 (decibels) of the Korloc is the only one worth discussing. The Delta IIC of 6 (decibels) is the same as a layer of plywood (1/2"). The Delta IIC 14 rating is the same as plywood with 3mm cork squished between the layers.

Korloc's Delta IIC 22 is the only one worth looking at for acoustic rating. Interestingly the brochure for Korloc only lists 19 dB (Delta IIC rating number). Which tells me you need something else to get it to 22 dB. Or someone is 'hyping' the product forgetting they already have a document that states a different number (it happens...more than you think).

To compare the numbers, 12mm cork underlayment (1/2") offer Delta IIC 22 (dB). If you add 1/2" cork floating floor (another 11 dB) you come up with a WOPPING Delta IIC of 33. Only rubber flooring offers more. But then again rubber can and will smell like a tire shop and would be almost as expensive as purchasing the tire shop.

Cork is a wood that has 'memory'. A dimple (not a dent) can be worked out with a hot, wet towel and some time. Drop the hot wet towel over top of a dimple and leave it there until the towel turns cold. If you still see a bit of an impression then do it again. Job done.

In a word you can 'iron' your cork. The fading = 100% true. It can get battered = true...but then again so can everything (except stone).

Most people who are afraid of cork because of the negative side of the product (fades, dimples, requires some love every 7 years or so) are the people I tell not to purchase cork. They often make the worst 'cork owners' simply because the material does not fit with their concept of 'flooring'. Any time I 'talked' someone into purchasing my cork, I later regretted (I used to be the technical and complaints desk as well as sales...so I heard it ALL).

You either love cork or you hate it and think the salesperson has pulled the wool over your eyes buy talking up the 'good' and hiding the 'bad'. Cork is cork. It does what it does. It either fits with a person or it doesn't. Cork can't change. And most people are unwilling to. Which makes for a bad fit when 'pushed' to work with cork.

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Comments (11)

eld6161
3 years ago
I don't think anyone here would suggest LVP when hardwood is a choice. I happen to be a fan of LVP in the right situation.

I have not yet seen LVP on stairs.
HU-35913549 thanked eld6161
Robbin Capers
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
Cork! It's soft and warm (and quiet!), but also easy care: can be swept or vacuumed and is water resistant or even waterproof. Look into particular versions as you may want to refinish occasionally. Definitely can be put on stairs in either glue-down or plank versions. Huge advantage is that it's one of the most environmentally-friendly home products on the market.
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Kim,,,it's very solid. just make sure the glue is spread to completely cover the plank. I have a few spots (like under the kitchen sink) where they missed the corner and it squeaks. They've held up great. I don't have dogs, but I have cats and have heard their nails burning rubber across the floor they go off on their tangents. I've spilled water, cleaned up their barf, spilled food, whatever, it all cleans up very well. as for dents, only if you drop something very heavy. but any wood floor will dent. I vacuum w/a Dyson, and then I use Bona wood floor cleaner on a mop. in the kitchen, i'll often take the scrubby brush and watered down Dawn to clean up spills or oil stains. no problem. no, I don't baby them. I don't wear shoes in my house though. I love my floors. just make sure on install they clean up all the glue residue. my guys were messy and lazy. had to call them back w/special glue remover and rag and go over the entire floor.
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The wood is factory finished maple. And they are poorly installed OR the house just doesn't have the ability to keep wood happy....or both. Can you get more of the LVP? If you can, then this is your best possible solution. Maple is STUPID-DIFFICULT to stain. As in 'hair-pulling-crying-screaming' type of difficult. It can be stained VERY dark (harder to see the bad stain job) than it is to get a medium tone on it. It is apparent that you DO NOT like the wood. I don't blame you. That's a nasty install! So your best bet is to gear up for a full replacement. If you cannot afford the a full replacement (assuming you can get more of the LVP or something in the same colour range) then I would simply pull the carpet and get more LVP in there. Leave the wood alone until you can afford the FULL FLOORING replacement (ie. get all the floors the same). I know this is a starter house. I get that. That's why you want to deal with this as best as you can without killing your bank balance. First things first: is the SAME LVP available? If so...purchase it for the bedrooms. The wood can always be dealt with later. The hardwood looks to be in the kitchen. That's when you a STONE OR TILE looking LVP can be installed later...without looking weird. More about the flooring availability please. And more about where the wood IS in the home.
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You can certainly match the color for tge step. Paint the risers.
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"The sales people claimed" - well, will they put that in writing? Once you install the LVP, IF it's done correctly, you will also need to redo all of the base board and shoe moulding, plus undercut all of the doorway casings, etc., etc. So, going back to hardwood - now there would be gaps everywhere. I would RUN from any "sales" person who obviously doesn't have a clue what they're talking about. You might get better information if you talk to a floor refinisher. Get stain samples of what they've done on your wood species, & references. Ask if your wood floors are in good enough shape to be refinished. Make sure they can match any needed repairs with the exact same species. We have solid maple on our main floor, and LVP in our lower level. Pros and cons to both. If I were building new, at this point in my life, I would do all LVP in the main living areas, simply for the ease of cleaning.
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HU-35913549
Original Author
3 years ago
Why? And can it be put on stairs?
thinkdesignlive
3 years ago
LVP can be put on stairs. They make matching nosing just for this purpose. However the real question is what is on the main level and will there be harmony between the floors knowing the stair is the bridge between the 2.
HU-35913549 thanked thinkdesignlive
HU-35913549
Original Author
3 years ago
At the base of the stairs, there is neutral color tile in the foyer, so it wouldn't be a problem. Does the nosing you mention have a lip ... I worry about a trip hazard?
SJ McCarthy
3 years ago
I always like to tell homeowners to remove the carpet (wear a mask and goggles...the dust is IMMENSE...as in 'totally gawky') and then LIVE with the subfloor for 2 weeks. Yep. Listen for the echos going up and down the stairs...and voices travelling in ways you have NEVER experienced before. Live it. Learn to love it. Vinyl planking in areas that used to be carpeted will be like living on plywood subfloor (cause it has no inherent acoustic insulating value).

Hardwood has a chance to be 'insulated' (bother thermally and acoustically). Hardwood allows underpad. Vinyl does NOT. I'm not kidding here. Vinyl HATES underpad. Go ahead and search Houzz for all the discussions about vinyl planks making creaking/popping/crackling sounds. These complaints are coming from vinyl products either sitting on underpad OR the planks come with the underpad attached (either way...you are living with more noise not less).

Be VERY aware of what you are doing when removing carpet in 'quiet room' settings like upstairs bedrooms. The house was designed with the noise-reducing properties of carpet.

One of the few products that mimic the noise reduction of carpet = cork flooring. Yes it can be put on stairs. Yes it can be floated. Yes it can be glued down in Bathrooms. Yes it can be installed in kitchens, entranceways and mud rooms.
HU-35913549
Original Author
3 years ago
Thanks for that info... very helpful and thought provoking. I like the idea of removing the carpeting from the steps and living with it for a while. We have put LVP in our basement and also throughout a condo so have an idea of what that feels like.

Someone else mentioned cork, so I've been researching it. Some of the cons were concerning... it's susceptible to damage, especially by pets and requires regular sealing, plus it can fade it sunlight. Plus heavy furniture causes divots.
julieste
3 years ago
I thought I'd pass this info about Karndean and acoustics along. It may be marketing hype; I don't know. We bought Karndean and will soon be learning whether we agree with this info about sound reduction. Notice too that they offer a sound reduction underlayment.

https://www.karndean.com/en/commercial-flooring/our-blog/2018/may/acoustics-in-luxury-vinyl
HU-35913549 thanked julieste
redrocksgirl
3 years ago
@julieste any update on your flooring? We are looking at the same LVP for our house and would love some real feedback.
julieste
3 years ago
We had this installed throughout our second floor about a month ago. There are only two of us (and no little kids running around) but I think it is as quiet as the carpet it replaced. I have noticed that the dog's toenails click though if they aren't kept trimmed short. So far I am very happy with the floors. They look great (a pretty classic look) and are very easy to maintain.

By the way, we didn't buy the Korlok Rigid Core but instead bought the Van Gogh Rigid Core. It is my understanding that the Rigid Core backing is the same in both products but that the Van Gogh line is comprised of old favorite patterns that now come with a SPC core whereas Korlok is new patterns with the SPC core.

Carpet to LVP or hardwood

SJ McCarthy

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eld6161

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