Thanks for all these responses. I passed on the names of the nail products and I think he's already ordered some of them. As for finger-picks - I'm not sure why he prefers using his nails/fingers. I know he has fingerpicks, but doesn't usually use them. I don't usually pay close attention, but it's possible that he uses the picks more for classical/flamenco and prefers his own fingers/nails for jazz. I'll have to ask him. Petaloid - thanks for that info on biotin. My husband is a supplement fiend, so if he's not already taking extra, I'm sure he'd be happy to try it. Lynn.

I just found these directions on the Minwax site, which says that if the floor is not stained, add a third coat, leading me to conclude that a stained floor doesn't need as many coats. 1. Sand floor as appropriate for the type of floor finishing project. Carefully follow label directions and the directions for the sander that you are using. 2. Remove all dust, then thoroughly wipe the floor with a clean cloth dampened with mineral spirits and allow to dry. 3. Before use, stir Minwax� Super Fast-Drying Polyurethane for Floors to rotate the product from the bottom to the top of the can. You will not need to stir again if the project will be completed in one day. 4. Apply a thin coat using a lambswool or synthetic pad applicator, or a natural bristle brush. Maintain a wet edge to avoid lap marks. 5. Let dry at least 3-4 hours until film is no longer tacky to the touch. If allowed to dry for more than 12 hours, sand lightly with 220 grit sandpaper, then wipe floor with a cloth moistened with mineral spirits to remove all dust. 6. Apply a second coat of Minwax� Super Fast-Drying Polyurethane for Floors following steps 4 and 5. 7. If the floor was not stained, apply a third coat of Minwax� Super Fast-Drying Polyurethane for Floors following steps 4 and 5.

colorfast, harleysbud, go_figure, and alongroadahead.... thanks for all the comments! I don't visit the forum much now that our kitchen reno is finished, but I do like to check in from time to time. I would like to add an amendment to my tile details. In the way back of my mind, I kept thinking that I had purchased Jeffrey Court tiles, but couldn't find my invoice from Best Tile to prove it. Finally came across my box of leftover tiles in the garage and sure enough, they ARE Jeffrey Court tiles. I'm not sure if Best Tile has exclusive rights to carrying this particular tile/line, but since so many of you have asked about my backsplash, perhaps this bit of info may help. Specifically, the tile is Jeffrey Court 3x6 field tiles, part # 519505 in Glacier. I'm thinking that if a store carries Jeffrey Court, they may be able to order this piece.

You missed the entire point of my post.. I was looking for feedback from anyone that has used the finish on wood counters (not a cutting surface butcher block) I was not looking for someones thought on the product that hasn't used it. I did understand your point, you don't like that it is Vermont "natural" coatings you don't think it is any more natural that other products out there. And it seemed implied that I couldn't possibly have done any research if I had any thought to use it. I have done my research. They use whey protein (a byproduct of making cheese) in place of heavy metal driers and the toxic binders and carcinogenic solvents typically found in finishes. My thought is is more natural than many other finishes and it holds up great underfoot! Is it the perfect finish probably not there maybe something better out there. I know a LOT of people use waterlox on their non cutting wood counters and I was thinking of this an an alternative. So back to my original question does anyone know how it would wear on a non cutting surface counter top, Or even how it has worn on your dining table.