I won't claim to be an expert but I do have some experience with avocado trees. I do know you need 2 avocado trees to pollinate the blooms to produce fruit. I started my trees from seed in the early spring of 2009, so they've been through 2 seasons of growth. They are about 3-4 feet high, have multiple branches, and this is the first year they are expected to bloom. I've noticed a few budding blooms on both trees already and I hope they produce fruit. They will not survive outside during the winter so make sure they have a sunny window to hang out by during the cold months. Avocado trees are a tropical tree so don't overwater, and you might have to provide shelter if there are too many days of rain. Good luck and I'll post in a few months if there are any fruit.

Avacado trees are no big deal in much of Northern California. Choose among many hardier Mexican varieties, and graft (for pollination), if you can, from a successful tree from your neighborhood, so that if you can't have two trees that compliment for pollination, or one that is known to be self-pollinating, that you'll get fruit. For nearly my whole life we've had avocados from our own tree or from neighbors' trees. I think there was a Sunset magazine article that described good varieties. Avoid those from around Guatemala...too sensitive to frost and cold. One neighbor's tree survived below 20 degrees F. The trees should be hardier if planted in the ground to keep the roots warmer in prolonged cold periods when the trees get large. Do not trim to expose the trunks or major branches to the hot sun in the summer. Avocado trees can sunburn. Do lightly shade the tree from overhead summer sun until it is well established. As you do with pears, pick the fruit a bit before it is soft-ripe, and then ripen it in a warm spot off the tree. It will have better texture and flavor. A bit like most pears in that respect.

Mangos aren't from a rainforest climate. They're monsoonal, which means a hot, humid wet season (summer) with higher temperatures day and night, and a hot, low humidity, dry season (winter) with higher day temperatures and a lot lower at night. Too much humidity can cause fungal diseases so in general it's good to water the base of the plant and keep water off the leaves, especially in the colder months. Looking at the photos the mango looks good. They grow and then stop a while. New growth comes with a flush of new leaves. So it's growing normally. When your winter comes there wouldn't be much growth but still take it out into the sun each day as much as you can. Temperatures below 15C you should have it inside/warmer. It will actually survive lower temperatures, but better if warmer. A seed grown mango can take around 8 years to produce fruit. But then you can't guarantee the fruit will be much good.

Peat pots for Mangoes? NEVER!..not here. Cut off the lip on those pots to below soil level..and plant in BLACK NURSERY POTS. What they need here is- heat. Black pots absorb heat. Put those plants against the hottest wall you have...and water the heck out of them all summer. When they start to flush? Fertilize THEN. Its when they absorb it best I found. I have a near 9' Mango,thats flowering and I did all I told you (mine was never in a peat pot) until I planted it..in the hottest spot I have. Mangoes in the bay area need to babied the first two years in ground..NO frost. Cover,heat, whatever needs to be done,but no frost.