I'll give a slight nutshell answer or analysis...first, you have an older home and you sealed the "lid" by spray foaming the attic. Was anything done to the basement in terms of moisture mitigation? Old houses tend admit moisture in the house through the basement. Could be a rubble foundation, moisture coming through a poured foundation, etc. It might not always be liquid, it can be simple wicking and moisture vapor. Before your house was tightened up, this moisture vapor likely passed through your house due to excessive (by today's standards) air infiltration; leaky windows, inadequate insulation, an open attic, and plumbing, electrical, and mechanical penetrations in the varying floor platforms, etc. It could be that you still have the same moisture coming in to the house through the foundation and basement or crawl space, but it's getting trapped on the higher floors due to the now tightened attic. Moisture generation points might need to be looked at too. Kitchen ventilation, bathroom and shower ventilation, etc. If moisture coming on through the basement walls is an issue, that should be addressed. If you have penetrations through the basement ceiling into the living space above, those can be sealed with canned foam. Now, you sealed up the attic in terms of the attic no longer being vented, but is it now part of the conditioned space? ie, are there any air conditioning vents or returns up there so air is circulated and conditioned? Or is it just dead space?

Sorry, I can't think of any simple, effective way to straighten out a warped cabinet door. Wood is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water vapor from the air, and releases water vapor back into the air, when the humidity is low. Warping is caused by dimensional changes as the wood dries out, including twisting. There is a lot that can be done to prevent or limit warping. If the grain is twisted, it is possible to laminate a second piece of wood with opposing twist, so that the forces cancel out. Since your cabinet doors are solid cherry, and since they are all stained and finished to match, I would be inclined to live with the warped doors, as is.

Don't touch the boxes. Contact your point of sales IMMEDIATELY. Take photos of the not wrapped vs. wrapped boxes. It sounds like you may have a shipment of returns in with a shipment of originals. Don't even try to sort this out. The shipment (especially the unwrapped boxes) needs to be returned. The faster you do this, the faster it will be resolved. Any attempt to install this means you take FULL responsibility. In the flooring world we have an idiom: "A laid floor is a paid floor". In other words, any attempt to install VISIBLY defective product means you ACCEPT the defective product and give up all rights to have it replaced. I wouldn't even try to do this without first lodging a complaint and starting the whole return/replacement process.

Garages are notorious for dampness. The reason: the concrete slab in a garage is NOT sealed from below. The moisture in the ground (all slabs sit on moist ground BTW) seeps up and into the garage MUCH MUCH more than in the house. Your engineered planks are twisting because they have WAY too much moisture in them. If they are factory finished, the FINISHED side will gather moisture in a very different way than the unfinished side. And the plied middle will take moisture in a different way than the wear layer and from the bottom layer. Whew! Now how to deal with this stuff. Bring the boxes into the house. Leave them CLOSED. Lay them flat. Do NOT stack the boxes if you can help it. They need to be laid flat. This is 'storage' only. Acclimation comes later. Once you have brought in the HVAC people and they have turned on the heat AND THE HUMIDITY CONTROL (which you paid for because it was an added cost that you already agreed to carry because you knew you were going to have wood ... right?). The house will take 10 days to slowly bring everything up to 'living conditions'. Once the house has been kept in the habitable range for those 10 days, you now start the 'acclimation' process. Yes. I said 'start'. We aren't even close to being done yet. Habitable Range = Relative Humidity (RH): between *35% - 60% (manufacturer's requirements trump 'average' living conditions) *wood prefers a 10% window to live in (like 45% - 55%) = no wild swings Temperature Range: *55 - 85 deg F (**15 - 28 C) but the manufacturer's requirements trump 'average' living conditions *wood prefers a 10 deg. range to live in like 65 F - 75F (**18 - 23 C) Your wood flooring professional will come in and take some random readings of the wood planks (10% is common or every 10th plank). S/he will also do the same for the subfloors. They will go away and come back a few days later (or as much as a week or two later...depending on how the first readings go). They will do the same tests once more. They will arrange to start laying the product as soon as the readings are inside the appropriate range (NWFA handbook recommendations for wood moisture content). The highly paid flooring professional will take RH (relative humidity readings) in the house; document weather and exterior humidity each day the floor is installed. And keep track (written down) like a hammer-swinging accountant - on a spread sheet if possible - during every day it takes to install the floor. The documents the installer creates are then handed to you - the floor's owner - so that you have documented evidence that s/he did everything by the book. The installer will keep a copy for her/his records (to prove that s/he did everything by the book). All of this is to maintain warranty. Needless to say, NOTHING can start until the HVAC and the HUMIDITY control is up and running (properly - day and night) for 10 days. And please make sure your well paid/trained flooring installer creates these documents. Every stick of warranty requires documentation AND strict adherence to manufacturer's requirements.