how to properly measure for a farm sink
I’m so confused. When I open my cabinet doors under my current sink and I measure on the inside it’s like 37.5 inch wall to wall (left to right). My cabinet opening is 36inches. I bought a 33 inch farm sink. Is the too small for this cabinet width?? Should I have gotten the 36inch farm sink?
Comments (10)
PROBeth H. :
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoThe recommended size for a 36" base cabinet is a 33" farmhouse sink or smaller. It is recommended that your base cabinet be 3 inches larger than the size of the farmhouse sink you are considering to install.
how are you going to place the sink w/that countertop and your cab? is someone going to cut everything for you?
or are you doing the kohler whitehaven
Before selecting your Farm Sink Cabinet, it is good to have the sink you intend on purchasing in mind. In general, you will want to go with a sink that is 3" smaller in width than the cabinet you choose. By going smaller, you will have cabinet trim on each side of the sink. Having trim ensures that if your sink is not its exact width (cast iron/porcelain/copper sinks aren't always exact), it will still be contained within the cabinet width. Additionally, it will not leave a visible gap between the end of the sink and the dishwasher. Since our Assembled Cabinets line does not offer a Farm Sink Cabinet wider than 36" and many clients desire a full 36" sink, it is common to add DWR1.5 panels on each side of the cabinet to create the necessary trim as needed.
If you go w/a smaller sink, you'll be able to have the trim (like shown here) on both sides.
Here's info on a larger sink sizehttps://www.houzz.com/discussions/2669742/36-in-wide-sink-into-a-36-in-base-cabinet
PROJoseph Corlett, LLC
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Farm sink 'stick out' amount...
Comments (3)Hi, it's a 36" sink in a 36W x 24D cabinet, about 34" inside. inside front to back is about 18" also, in these pictures it is set at 1.5" in front of the cabinet frame (ignoring doors) So maybe it's not too different from yours if yours is almost 3" in front of the base cab. I figure I need 1/4" from the wall for my 25" butcher block to expand, so the counter top is 25-1/4" from the wall. The apron corners are currently at 25-1/2" from the wall now. Yes excited indeed. but I need to get this correct the first time. So far I didn't need to butcher the cabinet too much. There is a gallery of installed sink here most are flush with the counter front edge. So I am not sure if that's how it's "supposed" to look or what. Here is a link that might be useful: installed sink gallery...See MoreTo farm sink or not to farm sink...
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Joseph Corlett, LLC
3 years ago 
Becka M
3 years agoBecka M
3 years agomainenell
3 years ago- PRO
Joseph Corlett, LLC
3 years agoBecka:
There is a bit of confusion here; I'll try to clarify.
Your picture shows a 36" cabinet. If you're not getting new cabinets, then a 36" SHORT apron sink is appropriate. It is designed for this application; no husband cutting down cabinets and remaking doors, no fillers.
I've put in so many that when the sink apron sides don't align with the doors, it looks funny to me, but apparently not to others.
The only cutting your husband will do is removing the top cabinet rail and the style between the top and middle rail. I'd notch the top of the side styles to let the sink sit 1/8" below the top of the cabinets. Install two Sink Straps (Regent Stone Products), and strap the sink in loosely. Set the tops, pump the 1/8" gap between the sink flange and the stone bottom with 100% clear silicone and tighten the straps until you get lots of lovely squeeze-out. Windex the squeeze-out, spit on your finger, and wipe it away.
Do not, under any circumstances, use wood blocking (or cabinet sides) to support your sink unless a horribly unsanitary gap appeals to you:
I don't care what your husband or the sink manufacturer recommends either. Throw the clips that come with the sink in the trash please. They leak too.
If you're doing the manufacturer-recommended 1/8" positive reveal at your sink, and I highly recommend it as it's the best, it is critical that the top templater and fabricator get the sink cutout perfectly centered. Sometimes they're not too fussy about this which is why they'll try to talk you into a crud-hiding negative reveal.
This is not what you want:
This is:
PRODenny Shuty
3 years ago- PRO
Joseph Corlett, LLC
3 years agoDenice:
When the countertop overhangs the sink completely, that's called a negative reveal. It creates an unsanitary crud lip. Fabricators love it because they don't have to be as precise.
When the sink side and the cutout are even, that's called a flush reveal. Unfortunately it creates an elongated silicone joint that frays and catches crud:
A positive reveal is when the sink flange is partially exposed. This creates an easily cleanable maintenance-free good looking tight joint between the stone bottom and the sink flange:
Becka MOriginal Author