I live in Nebraska, so I've got plenty of time before winter hits but here is my logic. Last fall I had just moved to the state and I was all lah-di-dah about it because I figured it would be cake compared to Minnesota. So, I was still ordering plants and making trades right up into October or November. Two things ended up happening: 1. I had a bunch of new cuttings that were slower to root than they would have been in spring, but I had run out of space in my aquariums, so I couldn't offer them much extra support. So, I had my hands FULL trying to give them a proper start. 2. A number of the plants I had started in the spring started to freak out and be temperamental as temperatures declined and it took them longer to dry out. I didn't know my collection well enough to know which plants were actually easy and which plants were 'easy in the summer.' The lesson learned was that Hoya troubles do not start in WINTER, they start in FALL. Really, the pace of things start to change around midsummer. A late summer plant just isn't in the same headspace as a spring plant, if you know what I mean. Thus, this year I decided I wouldn't trade/buy in the fall (at least in no great quantity) and I'd have everyone in place for winter at the BEGINNING of fall, not by the end of it. And because I am way overcommitted, it takes me starting in August to get that accomplished LOL. It sounds like you're so organized with your plants. When I moved mine I wedged them all into big clear tupperware bins, so they couldn't wiggle around much, and then I just left them in there for a while for the extra humidity, while I was trying to deal with more pressing matters. Your lacunosa leaves will get more firm (1) as it rehydrates and (2) as the leaves get more mature. The leaves on the ends are the new leaves and it's normal for them to be flimsy until they're done developing. It's interesting, it can take Hoya leaves a LONG time to finally be finished developing, even after they reach their mature size. I wouldn't worry too much about the light you provide your plant over the next couple days. It is a bit stressed, yes, but it is rooted and you can stick it in with the other plants, np. An east or south facing window would be ideal, and artificial light is fine too. It doesn't need extra hours of light or much fuss. It may take a while before it starts producing new growth. I think for all of the lacunosas I've started they always had a little delay period in the beginning, and then they'd take off when they were ready. So, don't be surprised if it doesn't take off immediately, just know it will make up for lost time when it does. Good luck with the packing! Don't give yourself too hard a time for taking some Hoya breaks. Moving is HARD!

Thanks, bruglover! I do feel pretty good about my progress so far. :-) Congrats on finding such a simple solution to your problem!! I can honestly say I never would have thought of that, but it's partially because of how *I* travel. I've never actually unpacked clothes while traveling. Granted, I don't iron, so I don't generally own anything that will wrinkle badly, but it was a completely foreign concept to me when I first traveled with my husband to see him unpack his clothes into hotel drawers. I've always just "lived" out of my suitcase, no matter where I went. Anyways, I'm sure your guest will be much more comfortable for all the organizing you put in. :-) Last night, I got going about 10pm, and ended up spending an hour and a half on the "bad" side of the closet. I didn't take "before" pictures, just dove right into the mess. And while I still have all that yarn to sort through (and untangle/cut apart), it's now much more organized so I can see what I have, and pull portions out one at a time to go through. I also sorted my "cool weather" clothing into type and color, so it's easy to see and get to. Here's what that side looks like now: I've decided to leave the sweatshirts hanging for now - there's plenty of room, and it won't hurt them. Those boxes on top the shelf are both full of yarn, as are the containers below on the floor, but I'll sort through them eventually. Then the sweatshirts may move to that shelf. And I finished the floor on the other side, so it looks like this: Much better, I think. The basket on the floor is for hangers once I'm done with them, so it's easier to carry them downstairs. They are jumbled now, but that's because there's three different types. Next payday (the 31st), I'm replacing all of my hangers with satin padded hangers. They won't tangle up as badly, they hold the clothes a bit higher on the rod, and I think they just look nice. :-) The table underneath is an antique I don't really have a place for. So I think I'll get some baskets to fit on that lower shelf, and use them for belts and whatever else I need. I've decided I don't need a second lower rod after all - there's plenty of room on the main rod for all my clothes, even spread out. :-) Finally, I've decided to take the doors off the closet, and replace them with curtains. I feel "stifled" by the small amount of space I have access to with these big doors, and having to move them around when I need something from the other side. With curtains, I'll be able to access my whole closet at once, which means I won't have to just use the left side for storage, I can keep my cold weather clothes there permanantly, and just use different areas of the closet as needed. I have a wonderful full-lenth mirror surrounded by mosaic stained glass that my mom made for me - it's in the hall right now (sitting against a closet door that it's too heavy to hang on). I think I'll set that in the center of my closet, and attach the top to the shelf above, so it's right there where I'm dressing in the mornings (and out of the way of the hall closet door). That's about all I can do for now (aside from sorting yarn). I realized last night that I can't take down those wire shelves until I make curtains for that window, because it opens towards the neighbor's house, and I dress in there every morning. So the "stuff" on the shelves blocks the view from the neighbors'. ;-) My mom is giving me one of her old sewing machines this weekend, and around payday, I'll head out to find some fabric to make matching curtains for the closet and windows in the room (or I'll find some I like and buy them...either way works for me). Anyone else with progress to report?

UPDATE: They came and picked up the sink and counter, and it popped right off because they'd used crap glue. Signs point to...idiot. They came back & delivered it, and the sink looks great. He used the "good glue" (for pete's SAKE), clamped it down, but hadn't listened when I told him about one side sitting against the studs leaving no room for drywall, so he didn't cut it down. They had to use a fine tool to cut the counter into the drywall, and every moment I am less impressed with these guys. On the bright side, they recentered the faucet hole, recentered the drain, it all aligns perfectly and it is more of a horse trough than a sink, and I say that in a GOOD WAY. It's beautifully polished and I am happy with how it looks and functions. Plus I had time to send back that Hansgrohe Talis S that I didn't like at all and get a cheaper Delta that functions better, looks better, and is apparently made in the same dang factory. But after 2 days, I take off the clamps and find that two segments are bowed up at the back (it's not too bad at the front.) F(&^%#(!!! If you look at the above picture, you can see one to the left of the sink (that one goes down easily if I press, so if I can inject some glue an there somehow and get some bricks it will lay flat.) the other is more problematic: My carpenter/architect friend is coming over today and I am going to ask whether he can think of any options. Even if I can get glue under there, I'm not sure it will bend down...it's not flexing down when I press. (I am, however, an enormous weakling in the arm department.) And...this is what you get when you go with the lowest bidder. In other news, I got an email from my fabricator that the stone warehouse had sent over my slab of quartzite and included a picture, and of course it had major irregularities in it. I drove over to the warehouse and picked a better slab Friday (of which they had 2, but they assumed I wouldn't either notice or make a stink, I'm sure). Does every vendor I deal with think I am a doormat? People, don't get Mommy mad. Things will get ugly. Deb

The metal corner beads have their place, but I seldom use them because they really don't fit into the style that I typically build to. My opinion, they do well in a more modern design, and in some cases, when going retro. But it really does depend on the style of the room and what other finishes are to be used in the room. If you don't like them, there are alternatives. As has been mentioned, through-body porcelains and natural stones can have their edges profiled. There can be issues when going that route. Texture, color, sheen, etc. My default is to miter the outside corners. The sharp outside edge can be eased just a bit so it's not razor sharp. That's usually the safest route, as you end up with only the surface of the tile showing. I'll sometimes overcut the back of the miter so I can get thinset or grout in there to support the miter while keeping the outside or show edge of the miter tile-to-tile tight. I'll color the grout to match the surface color of the tile so the mitered tile looks like a solid block of tile. You don't always have to do that though. Then there are liner pieces, trim pieces, quarter rounds, etc, that can be tucked in to the outside edge, similar to what the others have mentioned. They can be of the same material or different the same color or different. Again, it depends on the look you're going for. So you certainly have alternatives. Figure out your style and plan any overlaps or joints for drainage. Good luck!