Man alive, that is one sad looking plant. Among other things, it definitely in need of a LOT more light. Others may advise differently. If so it will give you more options. Personally, I'd say chop that poor thing up into pieces. First get a bag of potting soil and a bag of perlite and one or more pots with drainage holes if that one does not have any. (I'm assuming the lady has not repotted any time in recent history if ever.) Mix the perlite and soil 50/50. Moisten the soil so that when squeezed in one hand as you make a fist, it just barely sticks together/does not hold its shape in a ball. Now the for the hatchet job. Chop the plant apart where the red lines are. This will leave you with *1 "stick" in the old pot *1 section with a tuft of leaves and two branches/stumps of different heights *1 section with a tuft of leaves and a branch *2 sections each with a tuft of leaves. What you do next depends on your personal tastes as well as how many pots you want. You could put each section to its own pot or create group plantings with one or more sections per pot, or a combination of the aforementioned. Whichever you choose to do... Fill each pot with your fresh potting soil mix and lightly pack it down. (Should still be soft and workable.) Push whichever sections you wish to have in the pot into the media just like you would if you were sticking a stake into the soil. Push the section down until about half the trunk is buried. Lightly press the media around the entry area so that the media is pressed against the trunk. Put the pot(s) in a warm BRIGHTLY lit area (NO DIRECT sun shining on them) where they will not be disturbed. (Plants have trouble rooting if they keep getting wiggled around.) Keep the soil lightly moist. Each section should form roots after several weeks (might even take over a month or two). The main stump and the lopped off branch tops should sprout new growths/branches near the cut off. Typically this sprouting of new growth is a good indicator that the cuttings have rooted. With that old main stump, if you wish to keep that section too, I'd recommend unpotting it. Then remove all the old soil that you can (a hose could come in handy), untangle the roots as best you can (don't worry about breaking a bunch of them), and repot in fresh media ... spreading the roots out as you do so.

OMG! In all my CMs, I've never had something like this happen! It sounds like something's affecting its roots, or it's been sprayed with something (neighbor's drift?) If it's this fast, today might be too late. I'd call Bhenke's and get someone out there to look at it. That's a beautiful tree and I'd hate for you to lose it! This is a professional thing. Homestead, as much as they're $$, could help too. I don't know any other arborists. I wish you GOOD LUCK!

I did something similar to my Iniba Shidare. The branch I Brent was actually about 1/2" diameter and woody. I bent it slowly and staked it in stages. Took a few more then to get it to the position I wanted, and once there,left it in place for like 1.5 years. It's permanently bent like that now..

If your plant is wilting while the soil is still moist, you're over-watering. Often too, your plant will perk up and regain some of its turgidity in the evening as openings in the leaves (stomata) close in preparation for the dark cycle. Water uptake is an energy-driven process, and oxygen in the root zone is needed to (literally) burn (oxidation is slow burning) the fuel (sugar made during photosynthesis) that drives the process. Over-watering can critically reduce the volume of oxygen in the root zone such that the plant is unable to keep it's internal water pressure high enough to maintain turgidity (to keep the plant from wilting). Get your watering under control by using a "tell" to test the soil for moisture content. Something I wrote about using a 'tell': Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support good root health, which is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to a build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al