I have alot of personal experience with dealing with soil erosion. What is causing the erosion? My issues were with slopes that had lost all grass, top soil, and vegetation, and when it rained my yard was covered in little rivers. I can see the sandy layer floating to the street. I built dams out of rock, logs, stumps, 4x4's, and mulch. This helped control the continuning erosion so I could build up the soil with compost, top soil, soil conditionier, plants, and mulch. I am also building a non-traditional rain garden to take care of the roof run-off. Along the driveway in the worse spots I put rock and gravel, and redirected the water run off from the drive way to the rain garden. It was not a quick fix, as I have been at it for 2 seasons now and I am half way done.

First of all there are few different causes of erosion on slopes.. sometimes its simply the steepness, sometimes its the type of soil combined with the steepness, sometimes its the type soil, combined with the steepness, overland flow, and rainfall impact. The vegetation one chooses to hold a slope must consider the type of erosion that is occuring, slope angle, slope facing direction (north, south, east or west), the soil condition and the CLIMATE. I would never use English Ivy to control erosion on a slope - because its invasive. It may be effective for rainfall impact, but most ivy's do not have the root system that is the desirable goal for slopes. Ivy has deep rhizomatous roots that spread readily, however they are not fibrous enough, nor do they create a dense mat that holds soil for sliding or under toe cutting conditions. Erosion control blankets vary in their function, depending upon the mat. But the primary function of most erosion control blankets is simply to hold the seed bank in place on the slope, until the vegetation is established. The blanket is considered temporary... the vegetation is the ultimate control and the blanket is designed to eventually decompose. Some erosion control blankets do have a long term control capabilities, particularly those selected to increase tension ability of the soil in water courses. The vegetation is still the primary source of erosion control, and the underlying netting funtions to increase the soil ability to withstand shear stresses. Grass (fescues or natives) with deep fibrous root mats are probably the most desirable for erosion control on slopes. This grass should only be mowed once (maybe twice) a year.... the longer the grass the better the root system and the better the erosion control. Here is a link that might be useful: Root Systems of Native grasses

Let's not go overboard here. If possible get a prybar under one corner and tap moderately with a sledgehammer in the center. Sidewalks are usually not as thick as a driveway and should break fairly easily. If you work at it for about a half hour you will have all the gravel you need for a new base. It will take at least that long to get more gravel and sand at a home center and it doesn't cost anything. There are also companies that will drill holes in the slab and inject a cement slurry to raise the slab on the low side. About half the cost of hiring someone to remove and replace the concrete. About a hundred dollars in out area to buy a wheelbarrow, hoe, shovel, sledgehammer and redimix bag concrete if you are interested in doing it yourself. Maybe a hundred and a half.

Contact the company that installed your driveway with this question. They should solve your problem, as their service should have a warranty period. I wouldn't say I like working with irresponsible companies which do not fulfill their duties. Many businesses initially propose a specific time period, but in the long run, fail to achieve it. I like driveway pavers who use the best types of equipment so that the work is accomplished quickly. I turned to paving contractors dublin for help. They did their job 100%.