Call Lutron and speak to someone in tech support. When we were doing our kitchen, we had a lot of questions re: switches. Our ceiling fan had specific switch requirements, and the switch was to be "ganged" with the light switches for the room, so we needed to "coordinate" the fan switch with the light switches. The young man with whom we spoke (on at least a few different calls back and forth), helped us put together a comprehensive list of switches and receptacles for our reno. Lutron's # is: 1-800-523-9466. Good luck!

I'm sorry, I'm not sure what WAG stands for. The hood will be 36" wide and 24" deep, and it will be over a 36" induction cooktop. I realized I need more CFM due to the run of ducting - 4' up to the ceiling, 90 degree turn, 7' straight, 90 degree turn and then approx. 14' straight up through the roof. There are a ton of hoods that fit my budget and style, so finding a quiet one is the main concern. I'm aware that there will still be air noise, but I want to remove as much as the fan/mechanical noise as possible. Our floorplan is very open and I don't want to be in the position (that I am in now) that I don't want to turn the fan on due to noise. As for make-up air, it doesn't seem to be a requirement in my area (northern California) shocking because everything else here is so strict! That said, I'm not concerned as I will just open a window when I need to turn it up higher.

I will wholeheartedly agree with southernroots that 50CFM is not sufficient for your bathroom, but the 200cfm that he suggests is far too much. The first step of the project is to determine exactly what size of fans you need. Properly, the bathroom exhaust fans should produce 4 complete air exchanges per hour so the question then becomes how many cubic feet is four exchanges per hour? The main part of the bathroom is 10'x 12' which is 120sq.ft. Now assuming an 8' ceiling we get 120sq.ft x 8' vertical equals 960cu.ft in the room and we desire four complete exchanges per hour so we need to move 960cu.ft x 4 = 3840cu.ft per hour. We then divide 3840cu.ft/hr by 60min/hr and we get 64cu.ft/min. The shower is 4' x 5' so it is 20sq.ft and again assuming an 8ft ceiling we get 20sq.ft x 8' = 160cu.ft in the room. Four air exchanges per hour would then be 160cu.ft x 4 = 640cu.ft/hr. Now dividing 640cu.ft/hr by 60min.hr = 10cfm. For peak efficiency I would put a separate light/fan unit in each room sized to the nearest nominal trade size which is equal too or greater than the theoretical size from the computations. By example, you already know that 50cfm is not sufficient, but I doubt if you will find a 64cfm fan. The solution would be to then select a 75cm fan. Actually the slight increase would work to your advantage because it allows for line resistance of the ductwork, but to just arbitrarily install a 100cuft fan would result in way too much air flow, and keep in mind that you are paying to operate your HVAC system to condition all that excess air. Now, while you can run the duct up and out through the roof, I would prefer to run it horizontal to the nearest external wall and install a wall vent to the outside. That not only reduces the line friction loss in the duct work, it totally eliminates the possibiity of a roof leak where the line passes through the roof. Taking this to the next level, keep in mind that you are venting warm moisture laden air and as it passes through the ductwork it will cool and condensate moisture in the duct. For my house, I made the ducts with PVC pipe and installed them horizontal with a 1/4" per foot downward pitch to the wall outlet. In that manner I do not have to worry about metal ducting rusting or water pooling between the folds of flex duct.

The Fantech guy said he never heard of anyone using in a kitchen? Not sure why he said ths. Bad thing is that the CFMs are much lower. For an 8" duct, the max cfm offered is 428 on model FG 8EC for example. Than a 10" duct gives you 489 cfm on the model FG 10EC. For the non EC fan, the 8" duct get you 800 plus CFM on model FKD 8XL. This has me all confused now. Still have not decided. Feel all screwed up...the cabinet guy has this backwards, he made the cabinet size first, versus making the cabinet to fit the insert. Which forced me into a narrower depth insert. It appears most better inserts are 20 plus inches in depth. My options are very limited. The prestige seemed nice, but had issues with the blowers. Because their inline blower was too long and too high, I than looked into a 1000 cfm roof top version. Than Fantech because it was smaller and could fit into a 3 foot vertical run to the roof. But cannot install a silencer.