Bushes or hedges along new retaining wall and fence? Help!
Gil Rivas
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
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littlebug zone 5 Missouri
2 years agoGil Rivas
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Augmenting retaining wall along fench
Comments (23)Since the walls are concrete, I assume you are in a mild climate where deep footers are not needed. And the top of the retaining wall at the rear of your property is higher than the top of the sloped wall at the NE property corner, If you look up the sloped wall from the NE corner, at the top the soil grade falls against the wall. down the slope the soil grade is near the top of the wall, At the NE property corner the yard grade is somewhat higher than the top of the sloped wall. The above being shown in profile on the left side of the graphic below. I suggest you build another short concrete wall about a foot inside the sloped wall as shown above. Dogleg the end at the rear wall to allow a place for yard water to flow to the corner. The area between the walls should be concrete to carry any water flows without erosion. If the maximum height of the new wall is 16 inches, it's a reasonable DIY project....See MoreIdeas needed for hedge plantings above retaining wall.
Comments (4)Ah yes, that helps. The idea of the roses doesn't appeal to me. That might be just because I'm not a rose person, but also it seems to me that wind would be most bothersome in winter when the rugosas would have no leaves - wouldn't evergreen be better? Also, if kids are going to play there, I'd sooner they just jumped or at worst (if their parents can't watch them:-)) fell without getting caught up in brambles. A weeping juniper, I suppose a blue rug type, would look fabulous spilling down the wall, and something taller behind it would look more natural, and visually lower the wall better, than something tall right next to it....See MoreShort retaining wall and chain link fence
Comments (12)"Posted by matt_m (My Page) on Sat, Jun 8, 13 at 0:11 I really appreciate all of the advice. We are situated on a hill, near the top -- in 10 years, flooding has never been an issue, but it has with people who live further down the road." Engineering is an exact science, based upon assumptions, and in that light an engineer is required to provide a design that budgets for and meets the minimum design criteria for the area in which you reside. IE., overturning moment; at heights over 6', wind governs, so the design will budget for the installation of privacy slates or removal of the fence fabric and wood panel placed between the steel posts, which is a common design alternative. "(one an engineer at Sunroc)" I would urge you to seek the advice of a private professional civil engineer. " the winning idea is a 8" - 10" deep footing, 12" to 16" inches wide, with a 6" block wall or concrete wall on top of that, centered on the footing, with rebar uprights every three or four feet, as well as at least two bars the length of the footing and at least one bar lengthwise in the wall." With the exception of the 2nd piece of rebar in the footing, this is a typical "garden wall", not a retaining wall. Generally speaking, a wall less than 2'6" in height "is not" considered to be retaining. No soil added around the trees! Just running the wall in a straight line down the property line. "putting the posts directly in the wall" Which would be ok, except that you have something called "cost", which is the required embedment of rebar in masonry walls, which is 2" and cannot be attained using 6" block. "I might as well pour a concrete wall!" Not hardly! "One thought I had was this -- if I build the wall on my neighbor's side of the property line (he doesn't seem to care one way or the other, especially since I'm doing all the work and paying for it), is it then his wall?" If you are, indeed, contemplating this, you need to obtain and easement based upon the final wall design, because if you take a "disney land" approach to this, if you have a lender for you property, you'll find them defending ONLY their intreats and NOT YOU. There are prescribed and restricted "drain fields" which are designed to protect "downstream" home/properties from from natural occurring moisture from affecting that habitability. Those exist in your case and must be addressed. It's called "hydrology", and will be addressed by an engineer. "Not sure about how that would affect things." You, in addition to an engineer, might want to have a chat with a real estate attny....See MoreHelp with what to plant along back fence?
Comments (5)Maybe you like what I like. A structured jungle :-) You have a great space and a wonderful fence (I agree with Kent) for a backdrop. With white above it which allows you to choose any colors. How nice! Since the wood edging will not define the bed, get rid of it. Lay a hose to find a pleasing bed outline (Sunset trick). If you are not going to have an outline, plan paths you will need for access (to cut flowers, clean-up etc). Defining spaces is most important for a successful garden. Are you are going to keep anything major? Rip out now what won't stay. How can we amateurs visualize anything with such obstacles? Take a new picture of as much of the area as possible and change it to black/white. Print several copies and draw in pencil on them. Study your space at twilight to see where mass is needed. Colors don't detract then. I love the triple layer bed effect (tall, med., short) to create depth. It is a formal look and effective in shallow spaces. I mentioned sasanquas in that context plus the sun/shade. For a non-formal look I would consider a grouping of 3 birches over to the right (to conceal the vertical wire and provide a focal point. They are sold bare root and can be planted in the same hole or further apart. A grouping of 3-5 shrubs (one of the shorter Raphiolepis possibly ie. 'Jack Evans' so there's very little pruning) planted triangularly rather than in a row. Perhaps a rose bush. How much maintenance do you want. What colors are you drawn to? Agapanthus and Lantana also do not require watering after establishment. Oops, unless you're on sand. At the garden dept. put different plants side by side to see if they are complimentary. Start a plant list of what you like. If you purchase make sure it's returnable if it doesn't suit your space. I'll shut up now with what helped me, hugely. Drive around. Take pictures of all gardens you like. And copy!!!...See MoreGil Rivas
2 years agofloral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoEmbothrium
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoChristopher CNC
2 years ago
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