Carmel, I agree with my colleagues above are saying, however if you analyze what was said by the contractors I don't know that I would say that it is flat out wrong, just in need of clarification. -Most new construction windows that are used are indeed lower quality, but not because of any inherent defect in the design of a "new construction" window, it is simply because as he was alluding to, most new home buyers are more concerned with their granite countertop color than the quality of their windows. Thus, most "new construction windows" are indeed junk. -Regarding the Okna guy, I'm going to speculate here that the intent of his comments was to convey that Okna is not primarily a "new construction" window manufacturer. They supply the high-end remodeling market primarily, where folks are far more discerning in their window choices after having been burned by cheap or deteriorating windows. Okna does however offer each of their lines available with a nailing fin for new construction installation. It is the same window, just with a nailing fin added. Ultimately all comments above including those by the contractors that you've spoken to can be correct, it just depends on in what context these things were said. Technically speaking, in most instances a new construction window and a replacement window are the same save the addition of a nailing fin (and in some cases jamb depth) so no, the quality is not different. That said, many guys will speak in reference to the poor "builder grade" products normally associated with new construction when referring to those products in general, and I'd assume that is what the Simonton guy was getting at....

What glass are you being quoted? With PA being in the Northern Region for Energy Star, the Sunrise double hung with standard double pane does not meet the new .27 u factor without adding a surface 4 low e coating that will decimate condensation resistance. Opt for triple pane ideally, otherwise get the standard (previous) glass that is not Energy Star rated. I would not say that 27" is wide. I like to see sash reinforcement on that product though regardless.

ok,,so lets start w/the kitchen. well, paint colors actually. it's ok to do different colors in other rooms,,,if you can see both rooms, slightly, then either do the same or do similar coordinating tones. The rest of the advice is if you plan on keeping what's there. If you're going to rip it out and get a new kitchen in a year, then live w/it if you can. If this is all you can do for many years, then see if the changes, below, are something you can do. if you plan on keeping all of that wood trim (if it was me, I'd prob paint every thing except the beams on the ceiling, and maybe the trim going up the staircase. In the kitchen you have so many dark and heavy elements, I feel you need to lighten it up. I can live w/the black tile, for now, but that brick? hell no. that has to get painted. You can paint the brick on the island, or, I'd cover it up w/panels/trim and paint it a soft charcoal to match the floor (or whatever color you like) Grab some thin wood or mdf panels from HD or lowes and cut to fit the 3 sides. Use construction adhesive to adhere to bricks (or get some masonry screws and screw them in) then get some 1x2 primed trim pieces and secure all around the borders..like so if you want a bit fancy, do the stiles along the back (above,,the vertical pieces) otherwise, just do it like pictured below. see how nice and clean looking it is? More ideas, search "trimming out kitchen island". you could try doing it in this color or if you feel like you want to have a painting party, do all of the cabinets in one, two or all four as they've outlined. This combo would look great w/your flooring. you kitchen ceiling needs to be skim coated and smooth out. or, have it retextured, primed and painted in a flat bright white. if you will be getting some retro fit recessed lights (Costco LED's,,,great price) then wait until the holes are done for those. Minimum of six 6" cans (8 would be better) , and two spots for pendants over the island. BTW, replacing the top on the island is a piece of cake. either check a granite fabricator yard for a remnant piece (you have a slender top so it should be easy to find) or look on craigslist for a remnant or even an entire island, or get an inexpensive butcher block and cut it yourself to fit. Whatever you get, leave an extra couple inches off the back end for an overhang. you could do a few more inches. The brick around your oven? paint it. white, black, gray, pick one. use a satin paint for that. clean and scrub that brick very well before you PRIME it (if using a dark paint, prime it with a gray primer. white for white,,,but don't skip the priming part) as for baseboards, if they're all small and short, pull them and replace w/these. Any questions? and yes, if you have the budget, call in a designer to help you out with what needs to be done, what should be done, etc.

I am a huge fan of natural wood, especially if that's already what you are starting with. And I always feel sad when wood is being painted over without considering the alternatives. That's not to say that there aren't wooden cabinets that very much deserve to be painted. And this is particularly true for cabinets with unfortunate choices of stain. But from the photos that I can see so far, I am cautiously optimistic that these cabinets will shine, when paired with a good selection of wall, backsplash, and floor finishes, and ideally with a new countertop, if the latter is in the budget. And yes, that hardware has to be replaced.