remove tile/install hardwood floor, phases, order of operations, WWYD?
molman
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
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Comments (10)
Sammie J
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Unsanded hardwood--is this the way it normally is?
Comments (53)If you remove the floor itself the sub floor should be checked for moisture content. It should dry out a little faster, and may have been protected by the floor above and any ceilings below. Make sure the testing is not just the surface, but the thickness of the wood. Deep pins or electronic RF meters are better for this. Short pins and surface contacts do not make the grade. Any decent wood moisture meter has a depth specification. Whomever participated in this should be fired. The GC should know better than to even consider installing wood floors in unsealed or uncontrolled (no HVAC operating) space, as should the flooring installer. All the water in the drywall mud has to go somewhere. Setting type mud is a little better than pre-mix, but still introduces plenty of moisture. Even latex paint adds a lot of moisture to the house. Framing lumber is not dried to anything like its final value inside a house. That is why shrinkage and cracks in walls can continue for over a year as the framing continues to dry out. My floor guy will not even think about laying strip hardwood until 2-3 weeks after the drywall is done, the first coat of primer applied. Even longer fr wider flooring, or any species he knows to be a PITA with warping. Many of the imported foreign woods are inadequately dried from the start. Neither he nor I make money on having to fix mistakes. The main products of burning is CO2 and H2O (water in vapor form). Kerosene heaters (AKA torpedo heaters) kick out a LOT of hot water vapor that gets into anything made of wood. Propane, natural gas, oil fired, etc. (anything with a flame) does about the same....See MoreGetting ready to install hardwood...what is best under it?
Comments (9)Get it as smooth as you can with the sanding. I don't think you can use a pad under 3/4" flooring. Your best bet is get it as flat as you can and put a plywood rated for underlayment on top of that. Underlayment plywood has no voids to give or flex like Luan or reguar 1/4" plywood will. You can put a paper or even roofing felt under it. I think the proper installation of that wood will be either nail or glue. If you glue, you shouldn't use anything but the underlayment under the wood. Glue wouldn't stick. Your best bet would be go to the manufacturer's website and look for installation instructions or help. If you can't find that, try to get a number. Flooring manufacturers look for any reason to dishonor a claim for adjustment. One thing done wrong and even if it has nothing to do with the defect, and they will usually disallow the claim. I laid floors for @ 15 years, but have been retired for 5 and I have never bought a floor because I made sure to do everything the way they said. When I didn't agree with them, I got pictures and kept them. You can't go wrong doing what they say...just keep records that you did it their way....See MoreAverage cost to install wood flooring?
Comments (11)Removing ceramic tile is a lot of work! I remember being shocked that the removal was almost as expensive as the installation of new tile. We recently put in hardwoods and had the existing hardwood floors removed and the hardwood removal was much cheaper than the tile removal. Maybe see about getting the tile removed by someone other than the floor installer. When I was getting quotes for our hardwood installation, one installer was honest that the removal was a pain and he would prefer not to do it and as such his pricing would reflect that. As far as measuring, make sure to include closets. And all the installers told me to order more than what the exact measurements were. They were not getting anything out of it as I purchased the wood myself and paid the installer separately. I think $8000 is a reasonable price for 800 sq feet if it includes everything, including removal and disposal of existing floors. That is based on my experience with getting several bids. It cost us $400 for removal of approximately 400 sq feet of parquet. We also paid additional disposal fees of around $125. This was by far the cheapest quote. I don't remember what we paid of tile removal, but I know it was more expensive. For prefinished wood, we were quoted installation fees of between 2.25/sq ft and 3 sq/ft which included quarter round installation (we ended up removing baseboards and having new ones installed)....See MoreWood floors--what type of hardwood to use?
Comments (18)idrive65, Adorable model, what is your Dogs name and breed? Do you have to keep the toenails trimmed, how do you keep them short? We have two miniature poodles and a Collie and are concerned about adding a hardwood floor to the Kitchen. Even though we think that it will look great with the white cabinets and be much more comfortable than our hard tile floor! Is this White Oak barn wood a hard or soft wood? Your floors are beautiful, where did you find these and are they expensive? We live in the Mid-west, are these rare? Thank you for sharing! roseofblue Aw thanks. The pup is supposedly pure Labrador retriever, but we got him third hand and he's a mighty skinny specimen for a lab. I don't trim his nails as often as I should because he hates it, I do it badly, and twice I've cut him (ouch!) so he runs and hides when those clippers come out. I may try the dremel route mentioned upthread. White oak is a hardwood but not as hard as many imported species, of which there are quite a few between Hickory and the one imported that I listed, Jatoba. (Ipe, used for decking, is 3684 and considered fireproof!) Upstairs we mixed white with red oak and antique chestnut. In one area where dh wheeled on office chair back and forth (!) you can see wear on the chestnut, a little on the red oak, and none on the white oak boards. According the janka scale: White pine: 420 So. yellow pine: 690-870 Cherry: 950 Red Oak: 1290 White Oak: 1360 Hard Maple: 1450 Hickory: 1820 Jatoba (aka "Braz. Cherry") 2350 I agree with all who say the finish matters. The aluminum oxide finishes on pre-finished floors is very durable. Others have site finished with waterlox which is easily touched up as needed, you can search for photos of ccoombs floors for photos of beautiful waterloxed oak floors. My dh owns an flooring company that sells only antique remilled products so he made the floors for us. We actually kept a lot of boards that might be culled for a customer because I wanted a "busy" floor. Thankfully it matches the dog hair and hides the scratches very well!...See Moremolman
3 years agoSJ McCarthy
3 years agomolman
3 years agoSJ McCarthy
3 years agoJuneKnow
3 years agomolman
3 years agoJuneKnow
3 years ago
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