Are these good layout options for this Master Closet?
We are in the final stages of our whole home renovation and have touched every surface in this house, except for the master closet. So it is time to tackle this project.
Here's the layout. The true measures are 167.5" x 65" and the ceiling height is 120".
We switched out the bypass doors for an 8' barn door that opens inside the closet.
When the closet door is open I'd like to look directly in and be able to see a set of drawers & shelves before seeing a bunch of hanging clothes.
We want to use as much vertical as possible since the ceiling is so high. But we are not going to the ceiling. We are planning for 96" tall floor mounted cabinets with double hanging, drawers, shelving, a hamper and shoe shelves. I used an online planning tool and came up with a couple of ideas for a C-shaped closet. The depth of the cabinets on the back wall (C) would be 24" and the other two cabinets would be 16".
The blue are baskets
What am I missing or what have I not taken into consideration?
Comments (22)
Sylva Leduc
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Master Bathroom Layout - Option #1 or #2 ??
Comments (14)Sorry if I'm late to the party here, but I liked your first option #2 for the reason that I like the closet area more separate from the bath and from a heating point of view, it's always better to have the rad on an outside wall. I like some of the changes you've made to the bath design in the latest options 1 & 2. I don't like the doorway in the hallway, and I don't like the bed on the window wall...I like to see light and what's happening outside when I wake up, not an interior wall. I also think its warmer to have the bed on an interior wall. I would suggest moving the bed back to the interior wall, and changing the door to a pocket door so you can center the bed on that wall opposite the center of the windows. This will give you a better look, better space to walk around the bed to the bath, and something to look at when you wake up....See MoreMaster Bath/Closet Layout Options
Comments (40)Add me to the list of people with layout #2: closets off bathroom, in the past 2 houses with no steam/humidity problem. I like the setup because it works well for getting ready without disturbing the spouse. A small tweak I'd recommend on the laundry room: put the washer and dryer on the back wall (straight ahead as you walk through the door). That gives you more space in front of the appliances to put stuff in and out, instead of your butt hitting the wall when bending down over a laundry basket....See MoreMaster bath (and closet) layout help
Comments (21)I still like no. 1 better but before you go ahead with this dimension of shower, for precautions, I would shop for vanities just to make sure you can find one that size. Also, for me, an 18x32 vanity would be too small. It may not for you but I suggest that you compare what you have right now and see if you would be satisfied with a vanity that size. The drawers might be very narrow. All of that may work for you but it does not hurt to check before you commit. If you find the vanity too small or you can't find any of that size, you might have to change the angle of the shower. You can also have a custom made vanity, but also check if you can find a sink the right size for that vanity. Also, if you find you have not enough storage you may want the cabinet I suggested in the bottom left corner. In that case, I would put a sliding door in the middle of the bathroom (not to the left. Your plan as you have it now might well work but there are precautions worth to checking before committing....See MoreMaster bathroom layout options?
Comments (11)I think it's important to know where your plumbing vent pipes and drains go. You need to find out where the vent/drain is for the small shower. That will dictate where you want to put your urinal. You could conceivably put it on the right wall and turn the old small shower in to a urinal so it's separate from the toilet. This would, of course, eliminate the storage area. But you could put wall-mounted storage cabinets in the bathroom somewhere. Perhaps even across from the toilet or in a space saver cabinet above the toilet (make sure to have it high enough that it won't block you from taking the lid off and doing maintenance on the toilet). You could then remove the tub & replace it with a shower. but unless the tub has a 2" drain, you will need to increase the drain size. You could build a custom shower the size of the current tub or modify the footprint a bit. Keep in mind that size modifications will affect your flooring. It is easier to keep the toilet where it is as you won't have to alter the plumbing for it. All fixtures: sinks, showers, tubs, toilets, urinals, etc. require plumbing vents to let air push the water down. While they do work via gravity, they still need to have air to avoid creating a vacuum. You will need to figure out where your vents are & make sure they are sufficient size to handle the dfu (drain fixture unit) rating. Bathroom sinks (aka lavatories or lavs) generally have 1-1/4" drains but sometimes have 1-1/2" P-traps. Toilets will have 3" to 4" drains. Tubs have 1-1/2" drains. Urinals have 2" drains (so it would be the same as the shower). As someone else suggested, you could go with pocket doors so long as the doors don't conflict with plumbing vents. All plumbing vents need to meet up with a vent that goes out the roof (unless you get lazy & slap on AAVs IF your code allows for those- but AAVs need to be accessible & have airflow around them so you can't just hide them in a wall without a grille of some sort & they can have diaphragm failures). If you do not have proper vents you will have poor drainage &/or water may end up getting siphoned out of the P-traps and allow toxic sewer gases to come up. This layout has the least amount of changes to your plumbing & allows for privacy for both toilet and urinal. Additional pics or sketches of the plumbing for your double sinks could help. Do they combine to a single pipe or do they enter the wall separately? If you are planning to upgrade your toilet, I suggest a Universal Height toilet like the Toto Entrada. Not only is it a good height, it has a 3" flush and 1k MaP score so it flushes like a beast but does not splash. My friend got one and it's great....See MoreSylva Leduc
3 years agolast modified: 3 years ago
thinkdesignlive
3 years agoSylva Leduc
3 years ago
tedbixby
3 years agoSylva Leduc
3 years agoSylva Leduc
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agotedbixby, we considered doing a pocket door. It was going to be 48" x 96" and our contractor advised against it because of the weight. Maybe he just didn't want to tackle that. So the blue chevron barn door is in place and we love it.
We bought a built-in ironing center kit that we are planning to put in the wall behind the barn door. It will be almost flush with the wall so it (should) work well. The ironing center was going to be on the right sidewall and that would have wasted even more space. I'm hoping our plan works!
Premium Fixed Position Electric Ironing Center, Flat Maple Veneer Door · More Infolisarobert
3 years agoSylva Leduc
3 years agotedbixby
3 years agoSylva Leduc
3 years agotedbixby
3 years agoSylva Leduc
3 years agoFountain Hills. Only 15 minutes from Scottsdale & 30 minutes from Phoenix. My clients are construction companies, or high tech companies. None of them are fashionistas. :)
This is the view from my back yard. Even better than Sedona cuz we have a lake.
tedbixby
3 years agoSylva Leduc
3 years agoI thought you must have lived in Scottsdale when you mentioned the high fashion c'boy boots. Love the FH Art Show.
Fountain Hills is celebrating its 50th year anniversary. Yes, the fountain goes off for 15 minutes from 9:00am-9:00pm. Here's a pic of the St. Patrick's celebration when all three pumps were used. Water shoots up 550 feet.
roarah
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