Anything bred by Sequoia is probably better for your climate than mine -- it is hot and dry there. I have ALWAYS found that if you choose a rose that is bred as nearly as possible to your climactic and disease pressure conditions, those are the roses that will do best for YOU. It is simple really -- roses bred in the southeast do best in the southeast, and so on. It is because the breeder was selecting from all his thousands of seedlings with just your conditions in mind. Never mind the AARS tests that attempt to find roses good everywhere -- no such thing.

Let me save you and others from a potentially huge mistake. I have no grudge here. I only share my witness to a system that is not worth my time and has severely devalued our pool's appearance. This is probably not an option to consider if converting from another system. Converted from Salt one year ago and within one week the system began stealing my life. With the salt system, my pool service was invisible except for needing to pay for their work by check once a month. We had a beautiful pool. The Cu distributor kept promising results and installed a pH system and wired the Cu unit to my panel for automation. This system does not stop algae while at the same time it penetrates your plaster with copper stains until your bright white plaster becomes black. Where I never did anything before but enjoy the pool and receive compliments, I am a slave to shocking it 2 or 3 times a week and scrubbing algae every few days or so. Whatever the parameters are of my pool (Dallas TX, white plaster over Gunite, glass filter) - this system has destroyed the $85k appearance of the pool to something that would be better replaced by landscape. Algae develops no matter what the Cu or pH level. It's sneaky stuff. It begins as a clear slime you can detect on the cleaner hose. Then you can see its presence when you stir up the pool floor or steps with a brush--it kind of clouds when you stir it up. Then it begins to turn a very light lime green ever so slightly until BOOM you have a full tilt bloom in the water and on the walls. Your water clarity drops to about 30 inches. The only thing that returns clarity is shock (I use two pounds in a 17k gallon system) and to keep the system running. This is way more work and way more chemistry loading than ever was necessary with Salt. Our pool service winces each visit wondering how he can make it look like he was able to make it look with Salt. Guests look at the pool and ask, "What's wrong with your pool?" The distributor refuses to acknowledge the system does not work at this installation and insists on tweaking things. Tweaking things is not making the Cu staining go away nor decreasing the aggressive recovery of this Cu defiant algae. I can temporarily remove Cu stains with shock or acid, but the Cu staining is aggressively defiant as well at returning. We are insisting the distributor return the pool back to the condition it was prior to this black magic equipment was installed. He is in a difficult position now, but he gave his word he would replace it if it did not perform to our satisfaction. His work is of good quality, it's the equipment that just doesn't work as advertised at this installation. Consider yourself informed.

At the top of the lamp and below the switch, there is a curious key-like thing passing through the lamp. Is this only decoration or did that piece once have a working function? Maybe a gas valve or wick elevator? If that piece had a function in the past, then likely, this lamp has been converted to electric power.

Can't tell much without a picture.