None of my baths are remotely the same. I suppose the only similarities they have is white toilets and tubs (because I believe plumbing should be white). My powder room is venetian plaster in a soft green with dark empredor marble floor with crema marfil insets. Victorian music stand with an onyx sink in green. The fixtures are gold (shiny brass) as is the antique lighting. DS's bath is done in a mid color cherry with a very fancy cabinet. His wall is a mix of antique golf posters which I made into wallpaper. His counter is black marinache (looks like dinasour eggs) and the tub is surrounded with nordic black antique and travertine. Chrome fixtures. My bath is in crema marfil, chocolate croc and white (tub and toilet) with chocolate cherry cabs. ORB fixtures. All of the tiles have individual designs, on purpose. I personally hate a home where all rooms are done in the exact same finises. Even subtle differences make a huge difference in the overall look of the room and are necessary in good design. Fancy, I'm having trouble with the white on white on white. Have you considered any colors in your tile or counters?

Antiquesiluver - I used some tricks for the staining and floor laying. I didn't really stain the pine. After the dirt and paint was removed, and the old crusty varnish scraped off, it was the color you see on most of the board area. It got a scuff sanding and a light "whoosh" of stain to even out the color. (like a henna rinse for a redhead, not a dye job on a blonde) You can minimize "grabbing" on pine by wiping it with mineral spirits and then the stain while it's still wet. 1 - Ignore color names, and run stain tests on the new flooring, comparing with the old floor by laying the samples on the old stuff and seeing what blends. Sand and stain just like you will for the real floor. Doesn't have to match, just blend shades and have the same undertones. For oak, it's shades of golden and reddish brown. 2 - Pick three colors that are close to a match with the existing boards. Match the darkest, medium and lightest shades. For this floor, it's Minwax Golden Mahogany, Light Cherry, and Birch. 3 - Sand and stain the individual boards before installation. About 20% darkest, 20% lightest, the rest the middle shade. This mimics the natural variability on an old floor, where different boards have reacted differently to light. I shoved several pieces together and sanded and stained them as a group, then took them apart for install. I had to plane down the strip of new oak next to the pine because it was a teensy bit higher than the pine, just enough to be annoying. The trick is to plane a taper into the top of the new board so the height change is spread across the new board, edge to edge. It's a ramp, but on a tiny scale. The trick with the toilet stack's hole is to have a long strip running across the front and back of the hole: lay the boards so you have no seams within a foot or so of the hole. Those boards start at the tub and end well past the door opening. =============== Enduring ... Clean it and RENT IT! We have a roommate arriving Friday, a grad student. All the student is looking for is clean and functional. The vanity (to the right in the pics, under the window opposite the tub) is one of those oak things with molded plastic sink/top, which we might paint or do the cheap gel-stain trick on later this year. It's in great condition, but butt-ugly and not as functional as we'd like. Long term plan is - because this is a bathroom that needs storage and counter space - to build a wall-to-wall single-sink vanity under the window with shelves and shallow drawers. The overall house is, despite the adobe walls, a very plain Craftsman bungalow, so we're sticking to that woodworking style with NM trimmings and colors. New Mexico Territorial Style ... I've always liked it. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Territorial_architecture Here is a link that might be useful: [New Mexico Territorial Style[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/new-mexico-territorial-style-phbr0lbl-bl~l_43230)

Maybe this thread isn't a troll after all... it reminds me of a foreclosure I looked at a couple of winters ago. The place had the original 1938 kitchen sink and wall/base cabinets along that wall. They were nice ones with glass windows and a big, farmhouse sink. I say "had" because now the kitchen has a bunch of generic big box cabinets. The original solid doors were replaced too, to put in hollow core prehung doors - I saw them at Habitat so the kitchen may have also made its was there as well. And of course... now they're having trouble selling it. This post was edited by schicksal on Thu, Apr 24, 14 at 8:33

Your bathroom is beautiful and is in solid shape you should keep it since you like it. Professionals are usually renovators not restorers therefore the first suggestion is usually rip it out. Also there are ways to demo carefully but that cost time and money. I had an original 1916 bathroom including toilet that had some failing original subway tile surround and leaking water cut off valves. It was in an apartment. No access from above, below or behind. It took some searching but I found in my circle of friends one lone wolf who worked with me and we carefully removed the subway tiles from the failing wall, patched with a mud job patch and replaced the same tiles. Then with extreme patience removed several tiles from behind the toilet, replaced the broken cut off valves. The tile went back. The tiles in the shower have blended in and you can't tell where they were removed and put back. Behind the toilet if you get down on the floor you might be able to tell. But I didn't see it unless I looked for it. It took a lot of time but it was well worth the trouble. You will save your bathroom because you are determined.