Hello Shenue, The most common gnat problems I'm aware of are soil gnats (some call them fungus gnats). By either name, the treatment is the same. Cut down on the frequency of watering so that the soil surface dries out between waterings. This was mentioned by previous posters but I felt it was important to reiterate it. Changing your watering habits "will not" stop the larva that are already in the soil from hatching, so you will still see adult gnats for a while. Once the cycle has been broken and suitable conditions are no longer present, you'll see a noticable decline in adult gnat numbers until they've finally just disappeared. Your plant should also start to show some vigor too... as typically the same conditions that are beneficial to gnats are detrimental to plants. I wouldn't recommend fertilizing for a while until your plant has grown some new roots and shown outward signs of new growth and I definately wouldn't recommend putting it through the shock of transplanting it while it's in a weakened state. If the gnats bother you such that you can't wait for the new watering schedule to fix the situation, about the only thing you can do is spray the soil surface and the flying insects with an appropriate spray. No point in spraying the plant itself as the gnats are interested in the soil. Regards, Dan

thanks gal ... listen.. even simply watching what happens.. is a great part of gardening ... when it all boils down.. who cares if you lose a plant or two.. heck.. they die gratuitously anyway .. so why not.. watch.. learn ... and when you get to the point of understanding.. in advance.. what is a real threat ... dont worry about it .. again .. so what if a plant dies the logic is akin to mushrooms .... when i cut down a tree.. flush to the ground.. i look forward to the next few years of mushrooms .. its really fascinating to watch what pops up.. different shrooms over the years.. as they decompose the buried wood.. i cant tell you how many peeps run here.. and want to know how to eradicate them .. and i'm like .. HEY!!!! .. this is a FREE SHOW .. relish the moment .. and put away the flamethrower.. lol ... crikey man.. relax ... go zen.. EVERYTHING.. and i mean EVERYTHING .. is a learning experience.. in the garden ... little is catastrophic...and needs remedy .... oooohhhhhmmmmmm ...lol ken PS: so... if you cant stand there and watch.. get an adult beverage.. and a lawn chair.. and just sit there and watch .... just dont get addicted.. lol ... pps: while you are sitting there slightly drunken.. zen this one ... many of the japanese beetle traps.. use a hormonal lure .... key word LURE... so they are selling you something to ATTRACT them to your yard ... so you will buy more traps.. to ATTRACT MORE ... do you see the beauty of it ... after many beverages.. i figured out.. that i would give the lures as gifts.. to neighbors upwind.. and let them attract them to their yards .. lol ... but after sobriety kicked in .. i realized that you cant fight the JB's in the air ... you should attack them.. in the ground.. at grub stage ... but that was in my lawn warrior days .. and now i just ignore them .. they make things ugly.. but rarely kill them outright .... but sometimes they do.. so what ... i gotta go .. bye

Lady Harley, I didn't say this product wouldn't be effective against whitefly, I said pyrethrins won't touch them. What Rhizo didn't tell you was that Garden Safe Houseplant and Insect Killer also contains canola oil. I can tell you that oils are effective against whitefly. They are one of the "soft" products I can think of effective against whitefly (soaps aren't because of their waxy surface) and canola is currently being used as a biochemical insecticide.

do not up the water.. without checking the soil ... how new is this tree???? your note indicates that it was a big investment.. so may i presume it is newer .. this year???? any sizable transplant will take a few years to regrow enough roots to support the tree ... so browned leaves are not uncommon .. with a tree.. i would err toward 'proper' water ... as compared to trying to drown it .... the only way to know if you are watering properly ... is to water it.. and then dig a SMALL hole with a hand shovel.. and see just how far down the water is actually getting... i would prefer one good deep soak a month .. to something like a sprinkler for 15 minutes a day ... you have to insure that water is getting down to the root level ... as to the holes in the leaves ... lol .. i would trim the tree up high enough that you don't see them ... lol .... i surely would not use chemicals on leaves that stay attached to the tree for the whole season .. they are still doing their work feeding the tree.. holes or not ... bugs come.. bugs go.. good years.. bad years ... but unless they are de-nuding the tree completely .. i just don't see where chemicals will get you anything positive.. in fact.. spraying of chemicals at the time the leaves are unfurling can burn the baby leaves.. and you will be further behind than if you left it alone ... on the other hand .. if its been in place for 5 years.. i might change my mind.. lol ken