There are no hybrid bean varieties. It is not feasible to produce hybrid bean seed. So definitely go ahead and save seed of beans you value. It is perhaps the easiest of all vegetables for seed saving. And enjoy the Bean Forum. It's a good one for sure. But you will find us beaners on this forum quite often too. Jim

Genuine Kohler parts have never been cheap. I have found with shipping and handling plus the added risk of dealing with unknown sellers, buying online does not save me enough to worry about.

Lakeguy, Oh, it's way more than I need, but it seemed rare and interesting, plus it was very close to my Dad's residence so no shipping hassles. I'll probably play with it for a year on my sub-acre, then hand it over to my Dad to use on his 8 acres when I get that urge to clear out the shed (to make room for some more mostly useless green equipment scavenged on eBay). The way I see it I'm 32, in my first home. I won't be here forever. Some day I'll have a larger lawn and more appropriate use for my gas-powered sprayer, 3.5 cu ft spreader, 55cc chainsaw... Still flying the Ospreys; loving every minute. I'll be wrapping up my time as an instructor and heading down the street to a deploying squadron later this year. Three years since I've been to the desert on a horse with no name.

Hi, You can easily wipe or "pad" on shellac. If you are using canned shellac, it will need to be thinned with solvent alcohol. I use a pad made from a low-top cotton sock, wet with alcohol and a little shellac, wrapped up in a 1ft. square of very old, soft 100% cotton sheeting. The pad is remoistened from a brush with shellac every few strokes, when it begins to grab. You can build up an amazing amount of finish in a relatively short time this way, and the best advantage is that it is 100% dust-free as soon as it's padded on. So the finish is ready to go. It can't be handled roughly until it is fully cured, which can take a few weeks. (esp. in higher humidity situations) The thing to watch out for is leaving thumbprints in the soft finish. If you use ultra blond shellac, you won't darken the finish any. But if you are after a more antique effect, use my favorite, garnet shellac. These are available from woodworkers supply places online. The best solvent alcohol I've found is "Behkol", for it contains no H2O, the presence of which retards drying of later coats (worst case, it never dries, is always gummy). The Behkol allows the shellac to dry as its applied, allowing up to a hundred thin coats to be laid on in one session. Caution, though, if you are recoating an old finish. Quite often, the new coat will cause the old to alligator, so fewer coats and a day's drying between is a guard against that happening. If it begins to craze, you're done for the day, lightly sand with 320 before the next round. Good luck, thanks for reaching for the shellac and not the poly! Casey