You have to have 7 additional inches in your base cabinet to have enough room for your sink. So a 32" sink needs a base cabinet of 39 inches. Subtract 7 inches from your 36" and that's the width of the sink you can have. I am going through this right now. My carpenter might have to "scoop" my cabinet on the inside to fit in a 32'' sink, so I might have to scale down to a 24" sink--I'm still undecided and the work begins this week. Maureen

I was like Morgne, and ended up with a custom-made sink for my corner. All the ready-made sinks were either too big for my cabinet, or too small for my use. I did want a single bowl from the getgo (I love my single bowl sink!), and I wanted a rectangular one with an offset drain (i.e. the drain is not centered). I couldn't figure out the right size, so I ended up drawing a template on a large piece of cardboard, and fiddling with my drawing until I got dimensions that fit and looked good. Those dimensions were what I had made. I used Handcrafted Metal in Austin, Texas (handcraftedmetal.com), and am very happy with my single-bowl, rectangular, offset-drain sink--it's one of my favorite things in my kitchen. Another idea for you would be an apron front sink in your corner. What I like about those is that they are very ergonomic, as there is no need for a 5" strip of supporting countertop in front of the sink. That means no leaning toward the sink for you, which is easier on the back. I am linking a thread with a bunch of photos and discussion of corner sinks. Please look at Jayjay_Teacher's pic of her apron front sink. Here is a link that might be useful: Thread about Corner Sinks

i found the to-scale drawing i made of a 30" base cabinet i liked, with an inset door and 2 drawers. the cabinet itself is 30" wide by 32" high, without counter; the countertop will have to be longer if you want any overhang. i plan to build this myself, for my kids' bathroom. i think its a nice looking cabinet. here are some details of the front that might help you. there is a false drawer front (which could be a tilt-out) at the top of the cabinet. it's 4 1/2" tall x 25 1/4" long. above and below it are the top and middle horizontal pieces (rails) of the frame, each at 2 1/4" wide. this covers the basin area. below, starting at 9" down from the cabinet's top (not including the counter top) are the door and drawers. the door is 12 3/4" wide x 16 7/8" tall. the inner edge of the door is in the center of the cabinet. the drawers are each about 10 1/2" wide x 7 1/2" tall. the vertical members on the right, left and middle of the face frame (stiles) are 2 1/4" wide, as are the top, middle and bottom rails (horizontal members.) in addition, it has 4" tall legs, which are the tapered ends of the stiles. since the drawers are not at the very top, they don't interfere with the basin. and if you wanted all drawers and no door, you could modify it.

As to your question about location of the drain hole - I have had both of the layouts you mentioned, and I prefer the hole in the middle back. I could set things in both sides of the sink and not cover the hole, and it was far enough back that the water from the tap didn't land directly on it (that is annoying because it splashes). I also found things washed down better, but that might have been a difference in the slope of the sink. Also think about what is going on under your sink. Is there anything special you want to do in the base cabinet that would require your plumbing to be in a particular location?