On the part of the hinge that attached to the stile, not the door, you should be able to remove the screws, and shim with cereal box cardboard and move the door.

This isn't the door swinging too wide. Opening the door at all rubs against the door adjacent on the hinge side. I'm afraid in opening the doors all the time, I'll rub away the finish. (Not to mention, it's really unpleasant trying to open what feels like a slightly stuck door!) The carpenter tried hard today to adjust the hinges. Some of it's better, and some worse... now the cabinet adjacent to the fridge panel opens fine, but the one next to that actually *catches* on it (lifts it open slightly). So by fixing the first door, he messed up the second. He says there are problems with the doors on the cabinets that are attached to a not-quite-flat plaster wall that took a lot of shimming... there are about four adjacent doors there with problems. But the doors mentioned above are on the sink side, where the cabinets are attached to drywall. Is it possible there's something wrong with the doors??? Were they manufactured with the wrong tolerances? If he can't fix them, what are my alternatives??? I'm afraid they'll rub away the finish!

Hi All interested. I'd like to address a few comments. My name is Birdie Miller, I have an account here at Houzz. I design and build custom kitchens, cabinets, furniture and millwork, since 1972. I invented the EuroButt II faux butt hinge in 1990 and brought it to the market in 1996. Because the European concealed hinge is such a GREAT hinge, designers have had to 'do-away' with the functional design element of the traditional butt hinge, mostly because cabinet makers don't want to use the butt hinge, "It is a pain in the butt to use it". It isn't because they don't want to see it, they just don't want to use it. Before 1980 all doors were hinged with some sort of knuckle hinge, the 80's were the period that contemporary design in the USA took off, along with the construction technique of frameless cases and European hardware. After a decade of getting used the European hardware and case building techniques most cabinet makers didn't want to go back to butt hinges and face frame cabinets. I know there are plenty of sources for face frame cabinets and no mortise butt hinges (NOW). In the 1990s there weren't. After the 1988 stock market crash, our industry took a 'HIT'. When it came back in 1992, 95% of the architects and designers I worked with went back to traditional design... I have my theory why that happened! Back to the subject. Using the concealed hinge is a smart way to go, for the cabinetmaker and the customer, but you loose the design element of traditional design. I ran into the problem in 1990 when my designers were now calling for the butt hinge. With a little work, I said, ''why can't I just do this''.... Fake the butt hinge and let the concealed hinge do all the work!!! With that concept, I invented the EuroButt II faux butt hinge. You get the best of 2 worlds, The charm of traditional design and the advantages of the high tech concealed hinge. That is why you would use the EuroButt II faux but hinge... Self close, Soft close, Adjustments and Clip on and off. I took a lot of care to design a fake hinges that looked absolutely REAL. I show the EuroButt II at my Houzz listing, with a link to the EuroButt II website address. If you have any questions let me know. Take care and good luck with your projects.

There won't be a hinge with greater load capacity. How tall is the cabinet? Salice calls for 3 hinges if door is over 39" h. Most of the time I see 3 hinges at 39". That is the only way to increase the load capacity. I didn't check other brands of hinges since changing brands can be complicated but I doubt you will find more adjustment on others. There are spacers but those won't work for your problem since they are designed only to move the door away from the hinges-wrong direction in your case. If you either don't need 3 hinges or already have 3 then go at this methodically. Try to determine what hinge you have and the specs. If it has 3 hinges release the middle one completely. First-check,with the door closed check the clearance of the back of the door to the cabinet at the hinge side. Salice lists that at 0.07 mm. A tad more is ok any less with create problems. Then open the door while watching the how the door clears the cabinet. First watch the inside of the door, once it is fully opened check the outside edge. IF either hits then adjust the door out. The door binding against the cabinet while opening is a common cause of loss of adjustments. Next I'd adjust the hinges so that both are as far in as they can go-in your picture to the right. In most cases the reveal between the door edge and the cabinet edge should be 1/16". If it is much more than that it's possible that the hinge cup (big round part about 1-3/8" in the proper place. Check the distance of that against the hinge specs. IF it's drilled wrong you need a new door. Now if the door does not bind and the reveal on the right is correct. Set the bottom hinge height adjustment so that the hinge is centered on the mounting plate. Then adjust the top to the point where it moves about as easily up or down wherever that is. Does that also look to be about centered on the plate? Now begin to move the door up and down so that the bottom reveal is correct according to the cabinet mfg specks- (which vary) Do this gradually moving each hinge a little in the direction you are after. Now you have adjust "up and down" and " in and out" properly and should have the hinge set as far to the right as it will go. Then and only then can you adjust for rotation. Once that is adjusted it may be necessary to re-adjust the vertical. There should be no reason to adjust "in/out" but double check it just to be sure. IF that has changed and the door rubs, re-adjust. IF none of this places the door in the correct position it is a manufacturing defect IMO. There is absolutely no reason that you should need to use Loctite. There may be situations where the hinge should be replaced but first you need to know that all the drilling is correct by doing the above excercise. IMPORTANT- In many case the screws used on hinges and glides are NOT phillips head. They look like it at first glance but may be "Posi drive" screws. These require a different screwdriver than a phillips head. Using a Phillips head on a posit drive with slip damaging the head. There are extra little lines scored into the head as in the attached picture. If that is what you have get a posi drive screwdriver or a bit to insert into an interchangeable screwdriver. (you won't find them at the Lowes or HD hear though. Many installers don't have one or even know what they are, I keep a supply around and hand them out. Good luck