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Ceiling hood routing duct through joists

3 years ago

My ceiling joists run perpendicular to the way i need to route my vent for a ceiling hood on an island. Does anyone have any thoughts how I can get it through to the outside, i.e. see image on the right, will i have to support existing joists with joists/rsj as per below, any other ideas?

Comments (3)

kaseki
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
This configuration should be engineered by a competent architect. (If you are a mechanical engineer, you might be able to do it yourself.) In essence, the ends of the new suitably strong "lighter brown" beams that the cut joists mount to have to be supported at each end by structure capable of handing the increased load at each end. E.g., the joist just beyond (to the left of) the cut shown will need to be reinforced. The other ends may be attached to the wall. Usually, Microlam® like beams can perform the necessary horizontal support for the joists. The wall mount may require wall strengthening or columns in the wall.
lascatx
3 years ago
You may look at running the duct up, to the front or back and then out (either up or to the side if there is a clear route), rework the layout to put the cooktop and vent on the outer wall or where it can run inside a cabinet to the outside wall, or possibly fake a few beams if you have enough ceiling height. All that said, you want good ventilation, you want to make as few turns as possible (impedes airflow = less venting and more noise) and you want the ceiling and the roof to remain standing. Don't change any of your joists without an expert involved.
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I have conflicting info of whether or not it is required at 400 or 600cfm. I am not even sure it is mentioned in our local codes Do you fall under the 2009 International Residential Code? If so, here is the relevant section: M1503.4 Makeup air required. Exhaust hood systems capable of exhausting in excess of 400 cubic feet per minute (0.19 m3/s) shall be provided with makeup air at a rate approximately equal to the exhaust air rate. Such makeup air systems shall be equipped with a means of closure and shall be automatically controlled to start and operate simultaneously with the exhaust system. Of course it is also possible your area does not enforce that section of the IRC. The problem with removing one of the blowers is that normally code requires the hood to be the size called for in your range specifications. Therefore, it is possible a 300cfm unit will not meet code.
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I want to echo Weed's caution about being sure on code compliance when having your vent going out near that window. Last year, when I was doing a re-routed of the vent on my range hood, the local building inspector happened by. (We are on pretty good terms so there was no compliance issue.) I asked him about the rules and got a long dissertation as he handed vent tubing up to me. The gist of it was that the rules for range hood vents are different than for those that directly vent gas appliances (say a water heater power vent). There is some discretion when it comes to venting from a range hood over a gas stove. How far the vent has to be from an opening window also varies with whether the vent is above the opening window, at window level or below window level. I was told the vent that is above an opening window can be closer than one at or below window level. BUT, you want to be sure that, if you open the window while the hood is running, it won't be sucking in the vaporous stuff that was just blown out the vent.
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lascatx: I don't see how what you're suggesting would work. Maybe my labels are confusing. The accessible attic area is in the laundry room behind the white door in the nook. If I ran the duct in the joist space toward the sink it would pop out in the nook. There is a bedroom above the kitchen so I'd have to turn it up at the edge of the kitchen ceiling and run it between the wall studs of the bedroom to get it out. Besides messing up the light, which is centered over the sink, I'd have to tear up the upstairs bedroom wall. I'm taking out a box light so I've got to mess with the kitchen ceiling anyway but I don't want to tear up other rooms too.
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This has been very interesting as I have the same predicament. It's not really encouraging me to rush into doing this. Fortunately I don't do much of any greasy cooking and I have a nearby external exhaust fan in my laundry room to suck out odors. The biggest concern is moisture wafting up on the cabinets but aside from sticky grime that I cleaned off from previous owners, the cabinets are in fine condition even after 15 years without external exhaust. What I have been pondering is if I could somehow connect into that laundry duct work through the attic as I don't really need an exhaust fan in the laundry room.
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kaseki
3 years ago
Yes, always aim to have the ceiling and roof remain standing. LOL

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