Plants don't age in the same way we think of people aging. Age in people is a described on a chronological basis, where plants age ontogenetically. This might be framed as, the parts that have taken the most cell divisions to produce are the plant's oldest parts; so strangely, the most recent part of the plant (say, a new branch high on the plant) to grow is the oldest part of the plant. The youngest part of the plant will be found in the root to shoot transition zone. This juvenile part of the plant is also nearly always the most vigorous part of the plant. Plants pass through life stages until they end up at the sexually mature stage. At that point they are capable of blooming/fruiting. Whether they DO or not is complicated and not entirely understood. Blooming and other environmental reactions of most healthy plants are primarily influenced by day length (technically it's night length), but more than a few plants are triggered by other factors, like moisture availability, temperature, predation. Some plants even seem to have an internal 'alarm clock' that acts as a trigger to bloom. There are species of bamboo that bloom as infrequently as every 130 years and when the bloom occurs, all plants of a given genetic origin bloom simultaneously, en masse (all at once), and this occurs regardless of environmental influences. Now, that a plant is capable of blooms/fruit doesn't mean it will produce same, no matter how much we hope. The factors that limit a plant's ability to bloom are as complicated as those that trigger blooming. The plant's internal chemical messengers that limit blooming is first influenced by the plants ontogenetic age, but then by health, stress, stored energy reserves, a significant number of environmental factors, and sometimes seemingly no more than a built-in piqued obstinacy that can be more irritating than Justin Bieber or the Kardashians, if that's even possible. How do I get it to bloom? Keep it healthy and let it do its thing. You can search online - there might be some simple ways to coax it to bloom exactly whenever it feels like it. How old does it have to be? The only age important to plants is what growth phase they're in. They have to be old enough chronologically to have reached sexual maturity. This is also complicated because the (ontogenetic) age of the parent plant from which the propagule (that is now your plant) was taken has to be a part of the equation. Example - a hawthorn tree from seed needs to survive around 20-25 growth cycles to bloom; whereas, a cutting from a blooming hawthorn tree can be counted on blooming within a few years if its state of vitality has been generally good. Al

My guess is what you are seeing is a result of a change oxidation state of iron on the surface. Iron in soil commonly exists in two oxidation states, +2 or +3. The +2 form is most often colorless, and the +3 form gives yellows and reds (think rust). If I'm on the right track the patterns of yellow come from iron that was on or near the surface in the +2 from that then become oxidized to the +3 form on the surface. That can happen when soil becomes sufficiently saturated or waterlogged for a time to become somewhat anaerobic, then subsequently dries out - it shows a change from a prior saturated, anaerobic condition to now an aerobic one. If that's all it is it's not a problem, but it's sending you some signals. I think the main thing to focus on is better, more even moisture management and/or better drainage (avoid prolonged saturation). Second, the soil might benefit from some aeration (cultivation). Third, a pH check is probably in order - pH significantly affects the various forms, distribution, and availability of iron - take some samples in and around the colored areas, mix them together thoroughly, and then send a sample of that to your state soil lab for a basic test to get a reliable measure of pH. The test are typically ~ $10 for a basic soil test that incudes pH.

If the plant is grown on a slant the water will fall out from the leaves, these usually grow on hillsides, and their heads will face the sun. The more water you give it this time of the year the more bottom leaves it will lose, the fan is not helping it at all, they do need circulation in an inclosed room, but not directly on them. Check the soil, if it came directly from where you bought the plant change the soil, the plant may not even have roots. These grow in the spring, and like it on the cool side growing on cliff sides or hills of rocks, in Mexico mostly. I also live in So. Calif. Los Angeles Area, we grow ours in the greenhouse and it gets morning sun, and sun from a glass roof top that is high. My training is from the Huntington Gardens for the past l8 years, this plant may be started by cutting off the top and leave 2" of stem, them putting it into an empty pot until it gets roots, then replanting it into a very gritty mix, with very little potting soil . Follow the directions given just above. I have kept my own out all winter long and it did just fine. I check my soil, by putting a chop stick in the soil or a pencil, leave it in 5 minutes. Remember the root ball must get the water that is where the roots grow, not just the sides of the pot. You have a very small plant at this time. So give some time to grow. Best of luck, Norma

I agree with Karen. The plant is OK. That isn't sunburn you are seeing. Some people like their plants to look more green but I think your Aloe is showing a more healthy color outside. Your Aloe might begin to grow more compact now more like it would grow in nature.