Joey: If your plant has lots of leaves and is growing nicely, you can leave the fruit. If the opposite is true you might want to remove at least part of the fruit. If your bush grows nicely the rest of this year then let it fruit next year. The key to getting growth is regular nitrogen fertilizer, proper pH, and moist soil. There has been plenty discussed about this in the past. You can find that info using the search function.

I was going through my draw and found an article about pruning blueberries I'd stashed away from an Oct 2003 issue of Fruitgrower News. In the summary there was a paragraph that might be relevant. "Remove the low growth that would touch the ground when loaded with fruit. Cut out short, soft, new wood that developed from the base of the plant late in the season." Generally I would follow the advice of Fruitnut as he has the major experience of container growing. I don't like moving plants in the garage, however. You can also either insulate the pots and mulch the top or set the plants into soil for over wintering. The problem is that garages can get too warm and mess with dormancy and timing for taking plants out can be tricky as the environment can make them tender. If your garage consistently sustains a temp around freezing this may not be a problem. I don't know about blueberries but I've seen lots of trouble with figs kept in garages. I don't believe that pruning stimulates late growth once terminal buds are set and I also don't believe that if you manage to stimulate such growth it endangers plants- from my observation of fruit trees this is one of those horticultural myths. Late growth itself is tender but the rest of plants seem to harden off normally. This is based on anecdotal observation only but I've yet to see any actual research on the subject so I'll run with that because it's my own. Anyway thought someone might find it interesting. I certainly recommend pruning most plants that you're still trying to get bigger when they're dormant.

Now that you mention it, I should have said that raised beds are often useful with blueberries. Also they like a lot of organic matter in their soil. There are so many well organized sources for this kind of info. MSU and Cornell have a lot of useful stuff on line that you can easily source. Pruning is about maintaining younger but upright wood so for the first 3 years you don't have to do much. As branches get older they become obviously less productive, even as they start to bud out you'll see fewer flower buds on such branches. These are the ones you cycle out to make space for younger ones. You also prune to reduce crowding and thereby producing bigger tastier berries. It is often recommended that you remove all flowers for up to the first 3 years (don't wait for birds!) to get these sluggish plants well established quickly. It all depends on the vigor of the growth how long you have to keep removing flowers, however.

I have never really paid much attention to the 5-1-1 potting mix until now, since I used store bought acid potting mix for all my blueberry plants which I know Dan doesn't have access to in his area. A ratio of 5 pinebark to 1 peat and 1 perlite does seem quite drying. Unless you're using composted fine (grounded) pinebarks which are softer and denser than coarse pinebark chips - and retains moisture for a bit longer. I'm using a ratio of 30% coarse pinebarks with 70% store bought acid potting mix (a combination of 50% composted fine pinebarks + 50% peatmoss + a bit of perlite). I placed half of the coarse pinebark chips at the base of the container for drainage and mixed the other half with the acid potting mix. So far, all my potted blueberry plants are growing very well in it. No signs of yellowing leaves or stress. I water (added vinegar) them every 4 to 5 days in winter (without mulch) and every 3 days in summer (with mulch). Iron chlorosis only affects new growth so the older leaves should still be green, which it isn't the case here as Dan said - some are turning yellow all over. Maybe it's more than just iron chlorosis. Since you have just transplanted them, maybe try holding off ammonium sulfate for a month until they've settled in in the new potting mix? You're doing too much too fast. You're fertilising them right after transplanting. Try watering them with diluted white vinegar + water for a week or two. I know we're tempted to see our blueberries growing like fruitnut's plants. Have you tested your potting mix ph? Some pinebark have neutral ph, not all are under 5.5 ph. You can test the ph level wih a ph testing dye kit. Not sure how much they're in the U.S but they're pretty affordable in Australia https://www.bunnings.com.au/manutec-garden-care-products-soil-ph-test-kit_p3016727 You said the sweetheart variety is doing well in the new potting mix, maybe the soil ph is just right or that it can tolerate and grow in a higher ph medium. You'll never know unless you test the ph. Blueberries are pretty self sulfucienf just as long the ph is between 4.5 -5.5. A lot of the issues can be fixed with the right soil ph. Otherwise they're a pain to deal with, they'll kick and scream (metaphorically speaking) to let you know they're unhappy little campers.