If you have kids of an age to kick one another, this is always a possibility, but generally they grow out of that behavior and it shouldn't be too important a factor for planning, any more than kicking is a factor at any other rectangular table. More important is choice of stools if this is an eating area; don't get swivel ones if there's a kicking problem. A different problem is that there is only so much knee space. How deep will your overhang be? Did you discuss going leg-less with the designer? That is, using supports underneath the countertop instead of legs? I agree that the openness is a virtue. At the very least, I dislike the faux drawers idea you began the thread with. Visually it would be weird to see that panel with the implication of a 3-D back and there be none there--like a flat Hollywood set. Is that a t.v. behind the peninsula? In that case, I even more strongly suggest that the storage unit go up against the wall and the sitters move down. That inner spot will be the last one taken whenever people sit. I think you're envisioning someone sitting adjacent to wall and trying to talk to the cook at the range. How often will that actually be the case? More often the cook will be at the peninsula washing & chopping or messing with plates. The splash goes either side of the little sink plus behind it and the seats by it will seem just a bit too close. The end seat(s) will be the premium seating: possible T.V. viewing plus conversation in three directions--toward family room and toward colleagues and cook. And it's the first seating when entering through that door. One more thing to consider--how likely are you to pull a stool around to the inside of the peninsula? If you're like us, one stool will "live" in there much of the time. So if that happens, where will it go and who will it be facing? [Your layout is very similar to mine except that your door is my refrig and your wall adjacent to end of peninsula is my hall from another room, but there is no seating until what is your second seat because the peninsula angles out there. I sit to right of the prep sink at the pullout chopping board at the corner and DH sits opposite me when we are there conversing or such. Our little undercab t.v. is over your blind corner.]

Thanks jkmom51 and morton5--I know I'd read a thread a few months back about seating/couches in the kitchen (after we'd planned our flip-flop and were either awaiting our couch's delivery or had it, but no cocktail table)--figured a picture would be helpful to those contemplating the same sort of thing. With our Christmas tree and menorah lit up this past week (equal-holiday observance household here! :-)), it's been really nice just sitting there in the evening, basking in the glow of our holiday lighting. pbrisjar--the painting is actual a felt(ed wool) wall hanging. It was a birthday gift from my very dear DH this past spring. While we've only had it for less than a year, it's actually one of the artist's older pieces (her works are very different now, so we feel doubly lucky to have found and been able to get this one--I'd fallen in love with her stuff years ago). BTW, the jewel-toned pillows are actually knitted pieces (by my mom!) that I sewed onto pillows I purchased in Crate and Barrel. todds--Yes, we both remember you! Did you end up purchasing any Wolf and/or SZ appliances? If I recall, you were having your cabinets custom made? I might need to get a name/number from you.... Good memory re: our house; we are in a bi-level. Our kitchen measures roughly 13' X 13'. The aisle between the window wall and the island measures 42" counter to counter, and the aisle between the pantry wall and the island measures 36" counter to counter (island top to msg center top). We deliberately biased the spacing the way we did, in order to allow plenty of room to walk between the opened DW door and the island. trailrunner--no fresher than you are...LOL

Oh I see your point. I don't like the counter hanging in space on the ends which is why I didn't set it up that way. I do really like the end panel look I have, IMO makes it more substantial and finished looking and allows the stools to be put away more neatly. You do need a little extra width to make this work, in my case 8.5' for 4 stools rather than 8' without the sides. I don't think 6" depth is really going to change the basic look all that much, but I'm sure you can make to scale (or even life size) mockup. You do generally need some support for a 15" overhang, you can use essentially invisible steel brackets underneath to accomplish this though. My fridge side is right around 48" the other side is like 42" at its narrowest point. The 48" is nice to have and gives space for 2 people at once, but in retrospect 42" would have been acceptable to me. If you are cutting it close at 42" I would be sure that my measurement is counter to counter, rather than cabinet to cabinet, as it may actually be 3" less than you think it is. Just be aware the smaller aisles would require a little more moving out of each others way when two people are there. With layout like mine, that's not that big a deal since the range and cleanup sink aren't in that main prep area.

Workspace, Landing Space, Other Items . Work Zones…There are three primary work zones: Prep Zone (70% or more of kitchen work/time) Cooking Zone (10% of kitchen work/time), and Cleanup Zone (20% or less of kitchen work/time) Of these, the Prep & Cooking Zones work best when either next to each other or across from each other. The Cleanup Zone usually works best if it's separated from the Prep & Cooking Zones. Sometimes that means different parts of the kitchen (usually with a prep sink in the Pep Zone); other times it means the only sink in the kitchen separates them...Prep & Cooking Zones on one side of the sink and Cleanup Zone with DW on the other side of the sink. [See the FAQ thread "Kitchen Work Zones, What Are They?" for more information about work zones.] . Trash & recycle pullout...works best in the Prep Zone, near the Cooking Zone, and, if only one is possible, near the Cleanup Zone. Far more trash & recyclables are generated while prepping and cooking than while cleaning up. So, if you have to choose, put the trash & recycle in the Prep Zone instead of the Cleanup Zone. [That's the biggest mistake I made, I put it in the Cleanup Zone across a 6' aisle from the Prep Zone...it's my biggest regret by far in my kitchen.] Prep sinks...should have an interior size of no smaller than 12" x 12"...and bigger is better - I recommend no less than 15" in each direction, 18" would be better, IMHO. Anything smaller is not very useful for prepping. Those smaller sinks are often called "bar sinks" because they're really only big enough for filling a glass with water or dumping a glass. They're not big enough to clean veggies/fruit or draining pasta in a colander. Zone protection...strive to protect the Cooking Zone from traffic - both through-traffic as well as in-kitchen traffic. While cooking, you are dealing with very hot pots/pans/food and you don't want to be tripping over or dodging traffic, open DW doors, etc. This usually means putting the Cooking Zone in the most "secluded" area...but not always, it depends on the workflow in your design – but keep it in mind when designing. After the Cooking Zone, the Prep Zone should be protected. In general, no major traffic patterns should cross through the primary work zones. If you must put the Prep Zone or Cooking Zone on a major thoroughfare, then consider extra wide aisles so people can give the zone(s) a wide berth when someone is preparing a meal . Work/Landing Space...Be sure you have adequate work and landing space near/around appliances and in zones. Note that sometimes combining work & landing spaces is required when it's a small kitchen. [The following items are from the "NKBA Kitchen Planning Guidelines With Access Standards"] Prep Zone...36" continuous counterspace at least 24" deep for the prep zone workspace and be immediately adjacent to a water source. [We recommend at least 42" of continuous counterspace.] Cooking Zone...See Cooktop/Range Cleanup Zone...See "Sink (Only or Cleanup Sink)" Sink (Only or Cleanup Sink)...At least 24" of counter frontage to one side of the primary sink, and 18" on the other side (including corner sink applications) with the 24" counter frontage at the same counter height as the sink. The minimum allowable space from corner to the edge of the primary sink is 3". Sink (Prep)...At least 3" of countertop frontage on one side of secondary sinks, and 18" on the other side (including corner sink applications) with the 18" counter frontage at the same counter height as the sink. [We generally recommend at least 12" on one side and 42" on the other side. This minimizes splashing on the floor and accidentally knocking things off the counter.] Refrigerator...At least 15" counter space on the latch side of the refrigerator or on either side of a side-by-side, or at least 15" of landing space no more than 48" across from the refrigerator. If an oven is next to [the] refrigerator, [the] refrigerator should be the one placed next to available countertop. Ovens (Wall)...At least 15" of landing space, at least 16" deep, next to or above oven if it opens into a primary traffic pattern. If it does not open into a traffic area, at least 15" x 16" of landing space needed [(i.e., it can be across or next to it). We do not recommend putting an oven where it's in a major traffic path.] MW...At least 15" of landing space, a minimum of 16" deep, above, below, or adjacent to a microwave oven Cooktop/Range... Open-ended kitchen: at least 9" of counter space on one side of the cooking surface and 15" on the other, at the same counter height as the appliance. [We recommend at least 18" on the open end for safety reasons.] Enclosed kitchen: at least 3" of clearance at an end wall protected by flame retardant material; 15" on the other side of the appliance, at the same counter height as the appliance. [Be sure there is sufficient space for elbow room and pot/pan handles on both sides – we recommend at least 9".] Island or peninsula: Countertop should extend a minimum of 9" behind the cooking surface, at the same counter height as the appliance, in any instance where there is not an abutting wall/backsplash. [We recommend 18" to 24" behind the cooktop/range for safety and aesthetic reasons] Combined countertop for 2 adjacent locations...For two adjacent work centers or landing spaces, determine the longest of the two required lengths and add 12". NOTES on cooktop/range spacing: Experiences here have shown some of us that the above is actually too little for an island or peninsula setup or when the cooktop/range is at the end of a cabinet run. For safety reasons, you need at least 18" on each side. This does not include workspace -- 18" is far too little for workspace. For behind the cooktop/range in an island or peninsula, there should be a minimum of 18" behind if there is no seating behind the cooktop/range and 24" behind if there is seating. For functionality, at least 24" on each side is better, regardless of location of cooktop/range. This space can be shared with the Prep Zone on one side; if it is, then there should be at least 48" on the side shared with the Prep Zone. [36" + 12" = 48"; 36" for the Prep Zone + 12" for the overlap with the Cooking Zone. See above about "combined countertop for 2 adjacent locations".] In the case of a range/cooktop next to a door or wall, check your local Codes, they may dictate more space b/w the door or wall and cooktop/range.