Thanks for your fast response! I'm not a gardener by any stretch of the imagination so can you please educate me on the best "brush killer" to use? Round Up? Based on your post, I believe what we have are actually sprouts because they are not easily pulled and some of the roots are actually surfacing on our front lawn!

Hello Rod, I had the same problem, tried several different chemicals, none with success. Either they didn't kill the Kikuyu, or killed part of my lawn. However, eventually I did find a way. Firstly I bought Freezone Tuffweed, which contains a higher concentration of glyphosate than Roundup, which costs less and you only need a smaller quantity. I purchased a Weeding Brush, several different makes available, filled it with Tuffweed, and went onto the lawn, choosing an area to treat, and began stroking the brush along every Kikuyu runner I could see. As you push on the brush, it allows chemical to flow to the brush head, so you can target where your chemical is going far better than spraying, and you can do it even on a windy day! Once you have done it a few times, you can become quite good, and application gets more precise, so damage to your lawn or other plants becomes negligible. This kills the whole plant as it's systemic, from runner to root. It's the only way I know of killing Kikuyu permanently. Hope this is of benefit Rod.

Good info. Feeding in May is perfect and not late at all. That is when everyone should do it - after the spring flush of natural, new growth is finished. Too many people force feed their lawns in March or April and literally exhaust the plant's stored resources. Weed-n-feed is very hard to apply properly, so most people don't get the full effect. What we suggest is to use a good fertilizer when you need that and spot spray with a targeted herbicide when you need that. Broadcasting herbicide over the entire lawn is seldom needed, although in your case it might have been a good idea. If you still have broadleaf weeds after the wnf app, then it's because you did not apply right. It's often a 2-person job to do it right. Cutting low is a problem. That opens the canopy to allow sunlight down to the soil where the weed seeds need it. Just let it grow back up. Set your mower height to the highest setting. Tall grass resists summer heat and drought better. Morph might have something to say about that. Don't try too hard to figure out your lawn type. Some people know exactly what they have. If you have a mix, that's good enough. I would have thought that a mix would include some Kentucky bluegrass. In full sun that grass tends to fill in thin spots and choke out weeds. It could be that watering is a problem in general. Are there times when you go 2-3 full weeks with no rain? Those could be a problem for a lawn that is used to getting rain for a day or two every week. We talk about deep and infrequent watering here. Deep mean 1 inch all at one time. Infrequent means once a week after temps get into the 90s and less and less often as it cools down. This type of watering almost prevents weeds because weed seed needs to be kept moist for a couple days to germinate. When you let the soil dry completely for several days, the new seeds cannot germinate.

OK, I have experience here. Too much if you ask me. Since Spring of 2014 when I bought this house, I have a mole body count of 33 on my hands. I love animals so this pains me to admit. As soon as I rolled my back yard after working on it for 6 weeks, tunnels went up everywhere. I've tried it all. I've spent a small fortune. I don't have a concrete slab that isn't cracked. I have rock retaining walls that are bleeding erosion. Last year, I threw up my hands around July and just let one obliterate 1700 sq ft. I seem to be located in a mole hot bed and they just keep coming. You are not in pocket gopher territory...prob not these. Is the animal eating plant material? (Vege roots, bulbs) If so, probably a vole. If not, probably a mole...they eat worms, grubs, insects. Important question, can you co-exist? If so, good for you. I'm from the Southeast originally...we had some moles, but not moles like we have in the PNW. More than likely, you can co-exist. I deal with Pacific and Townsend moles here. Mole poison pellets = they don't seem to work, they don't seem to care Mole poison worms = they don't seem to work, they don't seem to care Castor oil = I actually haven't been diligent enough with follow up applications to find out if it works. So far, no. Ultrasonic sticks = I have some out that are supposed to be 1 every 1600 sq ft. I have 5 out in 2,000 sq ft. Didn't stop moles from coming in at all. Molecat = probably just makes the mole deaf for a few minutes. Looked like rednecks had more fun designing it than designing it for practical use. Wire Tek 1001 trap = Never had any luck with it...think the design is very flawed. Wouldn't kill mole quickly...wouldn't use again. Wouldn't recommend anybody using this. Victor plunger style trap = no good...too many variables...seems terrible for mole if not all variables are met. Quite frankly, I feel like these should be illegal. Victor 0631 mole "out of sight" traps = Best bet. Moles can smell, wear gloves, set traps so they are sensitive. Super strong...probably explodes internals and leads to quick death. Never found a live one on the other end, even when I was watching closely. Nash Choker Mole trap = Not as strong as Victor 0631. Only use if I have to do so because I do not want suffering. If I have to, I only set during the times I can watch them and keep a hatchet by the door. Damn near should be illegal, but second best to Victor 0631. Co-exist if you can. Taking out one will just lead to another. Unfortunately, I have to take out 1 so they don't turn into 6. They are usually territorial with only 1-2 per acre of land. This is the time of year where they meet up and mate.