Let us assume that whatever you choose will be installed properly, to be weathertight. However, installation cost can be a factor whether it's for a topnotch mason or a crew that actually knows how to install Hardiboard. Do you want something that combines insulation with the exterior? Do you live in a wildfire-prone area, or want the benefits of good fire resistance? Is cost an over-riding factor? That means, does the wallet insist on the least expensive initial outlay, or can it afford a higher upfront cost in order to save down the road such as lower insurance rates for brick or fibre-cement or stucco; or lower heat/AC expenses due to insulative qualities. IMO, the cost of insulation should be included when comparing various exterior materials costs. This is the only way to fairly compare various types of SIPs to more conventional masonry or wood. While opinions and preferences vary as to which insulation is best, folks who live in highly insulated houses seem nearly unanimous in touting both the comfort and savings for heat and A/C. But I think one of the most important things is which 'look' appeals to you. What style is the house? Some styles call for clapboard (or planks of some material), and some look best in brick or stone or stucco, and others use a combination of materials. What appeals to me may not suit you. But if you question is, what did I choose and why did I choose what I chose, then I can tell you that the new house will have a stucco exterior. It's cottage style, which imo looks best in stucco. The location is quite rural and heavily wooded so fire is a definite concern ~~ the nearest fire dept is 12 miles away and has an average response time of 25 minutes to my locale. To me it seems better to build with highly-resistant material, not to mention savings on the cost of insurance. Notice I don't say fire-proof -- true fire-proof is way beyond my budget. But concrete walls and roof (with shutters for doors and windows) will go a long way to lessening the potential for catastrophic damage.

Did you mean the window or the wall? I don't have a trim.

Tile worked better for my home. I tried some vinyl in a couple of rooms, a few years ago, but my old, large dogs had trouble getting purchase to rise. If you're on a slab do the moisture tests to determine if glue down or floating is the way to go. You don't want mold growing underneath or installation failure. If you choose tile, make sure they leave an expansion gap around the perimeter and don't grout up to the baseboards. Every person I interviewed did it that way as a matter of course. I removed the baseboards and reinstalled them, to ensure I had the gap and a nicer finish than shoe mould. I also told him where I wanted the movement joint where the flooring ran longer than 20-25 feet. I'm extending this tile into other areas, with the current reno, and have indicated where the expansion joints will go, because they never use them. For the kitchen, watch the clearances for any under-counter appliances. They might not fit! Tile raises the height of the floor more than LVP will. My project manager wanted to install my flooring after the cabinets, which wouldn't have worked out well for the tall tub dishwasher. I think he rolls his eyes over my requests, a lot. A helpful link about tile movement. The tile I chose is Mohawk Stage Pointe and has high texture and shading variation. The grout color is the darkest of the shades and hides any staining that might occur. The close-up pic is how it looks IRL. Second is of the room right after install. I love wool area rugs and they dampen sound nicely, as well as providing softness underfoot. Most of the floor in the second pic was covered by an 11x14.

Would repeat a color that is already on your exterior (eg., front door, garage door, brick, roof). Would NOT add another color to the mix.