Hi-I also have angelwing begonias--houseplant-inside has green leaves-pink underneath silver spots-pink flowers- approx 3 ft tall--outside in the summer--the leave are dark forrest green-silver spots with burgandy underneath--and dark scarlet to coral flowers--grow like crazy-I keep them trimmed at 4 ft--If this is what you are looking for let me know--I have several large rooted cuttings to trade Jeanette

Yes, you can cut it and root it but I've found it doesn't root as readily as other cane begonias. I cut half a dozen stems of it late last fall and only one made it through winter in the basement. So as for timing I would say sooner is better than later so it puts roots down before winter. If you keep it in a warm spot then it should do just fine. You could also try it from seed you collect after it blooms and sets seed. I have dozens coming up from seed I collected last fall under lights now but it is a long way to a full sized plant.

Fur? What's that on a plant? Like a fuzzy leaf? It was more than likely a mildew infection at one point. "Was" being the operative word. That doesn't mean that the spores aren't still lurking around on the surface of the leaves, soil, stems, pot, and anywhere else. Bathrooms, basements, and garages are infamous for mildew (damp, cool spots). Leaves are expendable but when you start seeing mildew on the canes then you really need to be on the defense to get it under control else it will eventually set back the plant or kill it. I saw a Lynda Dawn on my porch years ago develop mildew (or some other fungus) and I did not act in time - it killed the plant in a few weeks. There are many safe(r) remedies to treat mildew/fungus such as Neem oil, Milstop, and I switched to Orchard Spray which is pyrethrin (insecticide) and sulfur (fungicide) and while mildew is always present and can rear its ugly head, I have a lot more success by being a little more proactive. Watering when needed as been a boon for me. Begonia Sinbad is notorious for mildew in fall/winter. Last year I barely watered it and no spraying. It came out this past winter with flying colors whereas in the past it would probably be dead or close to it.

The node with the bud will not grow a new leaf but rather a new branch BUT only when the top growing point is removed. The nodes that had blooms will not grow any new branches so you are correct on this aspect. I would remove any leaves you do not like, trim slightly misshapen leaves if that is what you want to do. Usually starting new plants from cuttings is a way to rejuvenate the plant as new stems should come up from the ground from the mother plant. I often remove every leaf off a plant if the leaves are torn, infected, or just downright ugly - hydrangeas, begonias, and most recently a Chionanthus. The plant will respond with a new flush of growth if it wants to live and most plants want to continue living. My maculata seed grown plant had a massive outbreak of mildew this winter so a lot of leaf drop on their own, some branch die back, and I removed the worst of the leaves. I sprayed the entire plant twice during winter with Orchard Spray (a combo fungicide/pesticide but I use it mainly for mildew control). The plant now is outdoors for summer and starting to bloom. It is probably 3 feet tall now. PS - I wouldn't use a humidifier as this can help spread mildew. Here is one of my seed grown maculata plants with blooms just starting. I had to cut off a few dead branches due to mildew attack. Last September, a seed grown hybrid with maculata as the mother plant. Dec 30, 2019 in front a window in the basement.