Island Depth When calculating island depths with seats, don't forget the counter overhang in front of the cabinets (non-seat side) - usually 1.5"- and the thickness of an installed decorative door or end panel on the back of the cabinets (the seating side) - usually 1". If you have cabinets on both sides (so doors open into the seats, then that 1" is for the cabinet doors. So: 1.5" counter overhang in front of the island 24" depth for each standard base cabinet -or- whatever depth you're using (some people have 24" for the front cabinets and then only 12" or 15" for the cabinets on the back that open into the seats) 1" for door or decorative door/end panel 15" overhang (counter height) With just one set of cabinets, the minimum depth of the island is 41.5" 1.5" + 24" + 1" + 15" = 41.5" ======================== Island Length For island length - you need at least 24" per seat. Edited to add: As FunkyCamper points out in a later post, this is the minimum width per seat. There have been some rumblings about an update of the recommendation to 30" per seat, but as far as I know, that hasn't happened yet. With 5 growing children, I suspect 30" wouldn't be a bad idea - it will help minimize arguing about "s/he's in my space" or "s/he is touching me". In addition, if your children are taller/bigger than average, the extra space would be nice once they hit the teens. If you have seating on two sides, remember that two seats cannot share the same knee/leg space in the corners! For an island that seats 5 to 7, I strongly recommend seating on at least 2 sides, 3 would be even better! You don't want to have all 7 (or even 5) seats sitting like ducks in a row. Straight-line seating for more than 2 or 3 seats is not very conducive to conversation and bonding - it's more like dining with strangers in a diner. ======================== Aisle Widths On the working side: One-person...You need a 42-inch aisle if only one person will ever be working on the aisle (I assume that will not be the case with such a large family - some children will be helping out/learning to help out) Two or more people working on the aisle (most likely scenario in this case)...You need a 48-inch aisle Aisle behind the seats - depends on what else is behind the seats With a wall or other obstruction behind the seats: If no cabinets, counters, appliances, and no traffic at all (i.e., "dead end"), then 44" is sufficient If no cabinets counters, appliances, and minimal traffic, then 48" is sufficient If no cabinets counters, appliances, and normal to heavy traffic, then 54" is sufficient If cabinets counters, appliances, etc., are behind the seats, then 60" No wall or other obstruction directly behind the seats - the "open" concept your friend is planning: If island backs to a sofa or similar - then no less than 48" if there is minimal traffic (i.e., a "dead end") or 54" if there is normal to heavy traffic. If island backs to a table - then 60" b/w the island and the table .

I like a lot of light as well. I think everything is well lit except for your family room. Definitely not enough light in there (especially if you want the option of a brightly lit space. There is no center lighting and everything has been arrange around the edges of the room. IMO, what you have is a HUGE span with zero lighting which is not at all adequate. Some people prefer room edge lighting and that’s what they’ll recommend. But if you like a lot of light, I don’t think the way your designer set things up will satisfy that need. If it was my home, even though the ceilings are only 8 feet, I would want a center fixture (small chandelier or semi flush)...something pretty. If you are not sure about your furniture placement they can always install the box with lots of extra wire looped in the ceiling so you can adjust it later. Just take pics of your ceiling joists when it’s all opened up (if it is opened up) so you know where everything is located. Makes it easier later. You’ll have a little sheetrock repair, but completely manageable. I would add more cans/wafers around the center of the room and put them on a dimmer. You can always turn them off or dim them if it’s too much light, but if there’s nothing there, you’re stuck with a dark room and no real way to fix it (other than having your electrician return and hack up your ceiling). I’m not a fan of LED, but some people love it. Just make sure you like the type of light they put out before you bite the bullet on them.

Thank you both! Jennifer, I just uploaded a floor plan for the area. It looks like the living room is 15x18. My husband and I were already considering putting a sectional along the left wall as you described, so I'm glad you see that as a good option, too! Beverly, I like your layout of the living area! Is there a reason for the rounded table vs. a rectangular table? I assumed a rectangular table would look better, so just curious. Thank you again for your suggestions!

I am buying new furniture for this open concept kitchen and living. I want the result to feel cozy and functional. Any ideas? I am attaching pictures and measures. I like to have a table in the living room area where I can do crafts, work at my computer etc., I dont want it to be a space just with sofas and coffee/side tables. I am also sending this link because I think that a console table like the one in the picture might be a good way to separate my living-capeted area from my kitchen/tiled area. But if I do this in the living, what about the tiled/kitchen area? What would be a good use of it? It seems to me I would need a table there... https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-living-room-traditional-living-room-new-york-phvw-vp~18825494?share=clipboard Any advice is greatly appreciated! Thank you!