Showplace wood products and Elmwood both offer them. I've only put in the SWP ones so far. Very clear and easy installation directions supplied that MUST be followed. SWP load rating is 15lbs per running foot. Available 2 1/4" or 3" thick - any size up to 96"- any species any finish. I have two 6 footers in my office which are attached at one end to a wall- rock solid even with books on em. Being a nervous Nellie if they are holding a big load (like books) I try to attach one end. I have a series of 48-54" ones of these going into a kitchen now which will get a serious load. I've asked contractor to add one hidden support midway just to be safe. Not sure about the Elmwood rating and haven't tried them yet. I should add that I had tried some over the counter ones from Lowes and had to take them down, wouldn't hold books and stay level without extra bracing. This post was edited by jakuvall on Wed, Jan 22, 14 at 19:09

I have a family of 7, and 3 pantry areas: a 30" wide x 24" deep x 88" high unit, a 15" wide x 24" deep x 88" high tower pullout, and a 36" drawer base. Plus I keep my spices in an 18" shallow drawer, so maybe that makes 4 pantry areas. It is plenty of pantry space for our us, and I shop at warehouse clubs for our family and entertain frequently. I love having my pantry space broken up-- I keep things I need to grab during meal prep or everyday baking in the tower pantry (which is in my prep area) and stuff I less urgently need and the kids' items in the 30" wide, 24" deep pantry. I don't think having a deep pantry is a problem at all if you have drawers and pullouts on the lower levels. I use my lower level drawers to store stuff that would get lost (canned goods, onions in a basket, kids' snack foods) and the upper, deep shelves to store cases of warehouse stuff (paper towels, giant chip variety bags, cases of soft drinks). The shelves are all completely adjustable. The 36" drawer stack holds club-sized boxes of plastic baggies, lunch boxes, thermoses and more canned goods. I've had both carpentry and cabinetry pantries, and IMO cabinetry is better because you can completely use the depth of the space, and you have the option of pullouts or better yet drawers on the lower levels. I can see the advantage of seeing everything at once in a walk-in, but I don't like to walk away from the cooking scene to grab what I need. In the end it's a personal choice. I've given a lot of info about our set-up but here's my verdict: I think you will be fine with a 36"x24"x96" unit for a family of 4, living in the city. And, you don't want the pantry off in Siberia, so that you sigh every time you have to go fetch an ingredient. Egads, 96"? Are you working in storage for a step ladder in your plan? The top rollout on the unit you linked looks a bit high to me, but maybe you are tall enough to comfortably see the contents. On the upper level of my tower pantry I have a wire basket rollout, which is nice because I can see the contents from underneath.

My standard counter depth is 28". I have never had a complaint from a customer as regards this arrangement not providing sufficient working depth on the countertops. This provides sufficient room for pipes, electrical runs and clearance behind standard depth cabinetry and it allows flush alignment of appliance fronts and base cabinet doors. In some cases we make extra allowance for deeper refrigerators. I almost always block forward upper cabinets 3" by setting up a double 2x4 rail. The rail furrs forward the cabinets and also provides a void behind for wiring runs for cove and under cabinet lighting. With this setup, if you used 15" uppers the distance from counter front to uppers would be 10 inches with the 3" build out. If you used 12" deep cabinetry the distance would be 13" evidently enough. For smaller customers we tend to focus on less upper cabinetry and look toward floor to ceiling pull out pantries and other such storage arrangements as are easier to access. I am myself a towering 5'7". Lets say that in high school soccer and track were a better choice for me than basketball.

opaone: I trust you mean in the sense of capturing effluent headed upward and outward such that it would miss a 27-inch entry aperture boundary by 3 inches. Weifei Zheng: A four-inch high shelf hood really won't have a significant buffer volume (assuming you mean volume below the baffles); the baffle assembly itself might be 1.5 inches thick and will have to be low as possible. The air flow in the volume above the baffles will not have any lingering fumes. But to get the flow at the baffles to be roughly equal across the baffle area, the pressure inside this type of hood has to be low relative to below the baffles, and this pressure loss moves the user up and to the left on the fan curve, reducing volumetric flow rate. Hence the suggestion for zero static pressure rated flow rate to be twice the required operating flow rate. (Also note that I did the calculation for a nominal 24-inch entry aperture (front to back); a 27-inch will require 1/8 more air flow to keep the velocity at 90 ft/min. Maximum stud space ducts of 3.5 x 14 might be advised, along with nearly matching slots in the hood rear.)