@michelerossi Could I therefore already carry out a repotting with pruning of the roots? The answer isn't an easy yes or no. Obviously, you can do whatever you want when you want, but that isn't always the best approach. If I had to make the decision, I would weigh a number of factors, the plant's current level of vitality, light levels, current temperatures, and whether of not I felt it was an emergency situation (whether the plant is likely or unlikely to survive (w/o repotting) until the most appropriate time to repot. You might also have other factors like your schedule or commitments to consider. If the plant is not in danger of succumbing to root rot or the congestion, I'd definitely wait until the optimum time relative to your geography and weather. Is there no need for me to wait for June as you generally indicated? It's not a matter of hard, fast rules re the timing. Instead of "can I" or "should I" repot earlier than June, the question should be what's best for the plant. In our previous discussions I outlined why repotting close to the summer solstice is best. The plant will respond most enthusiastically and recover faster when days are longest/brightest and when the plant's level of reserve energy is at or near peak. Even if the plant is doing poorly now and you feel its level of vitality won't increase between now and mid-June, I'd still wait. I think the only thing that would make me repot now (here in MI) would be if I determined the plant to have a fungal root infection. Can I proceed now even if the plant has some signs of distress as you can see from the bare lower branches (the fourth photo) or should I wait for it to recover in spring? I think I pretty much answered this question in what I wrote above. *********************************************************************************** @kitasei Should I be root pruning my yuzu trees like this?? They are in large pots. When I suggest what you should or shouldn't do, it's always from the perspective of 'what is best for the plant'. Root congestion is a far more insidious robber of growth, vitality, and the plant's ability to defend itself, than 99% of growers realize. Potting up to a larger pot is not an effective strategy for managing roots because there will always be congestion at the center of the root mass. A full repot which includes bare rooting, root pruning, and a change of grow medium completely relieves root congestion and allows the plant to return to its normal rate of growth, level of vitality, and ability to defend itself (against disease pathogens and insect herbivory). A tree that is regularly repotted will normally grow 5-10x faster and exhibit a higher level of vitality, eye appeal, and it will be more productive. If you're objective is to provide your tree with the best opportunity to maximize its genetic potential, repotting (full repots) are essential to that end. Root congestion is limiting and will always hold a plant back. The best time to repot citrus is in the early spring - just before you notice the plant is getting serious about its spring push brought on by warmer temps and brighter/ longer days. Make sure you understand how to go about the repotting process before you dive in head first. Most loss of viability subsequent to repotting is due to overlooking something that seems minor but is important. One important factor is, the roots need to be continually wet during the process. Al

You need to assist the site in draining to a different location (underground trenches and pipe) or you need to substantially raise the planting beds. We recently had to do this to our front yard, prior to our landscape renovation project coming up this fall. Once the pipe was properly installed, the front yard went from a mire after a heavy rain to absolutely perfect! And we have heavy clay soil. It's a do it yourself job if you know what you're doing. Here is a link that might be useful: drainage construction

If the roots dried you may lose the tree. No guarantees in this. Apply an anti -transpirant to the leaves (Wilt-pruf is a common brand) Provide some addittional shelter from the wind. Keep the soil moist but not soggy, dig down and check don't rely on waving a hose around.

The usual term is cuttings rather than rootings, you should find much more searching with the customary word. With cuttings of deciduous trees and shrubs it is often necessary to follow a comparatively strict procedure in order to get them to both form roots and then grow away again the following spring. If the tips of the rooted cuttings do not have time to flush a new stem growth, form overwintering terminal bud the cuttings may fail to continue growing the following spring - despite having had roots and remained alive up to that point. To overcome this more difficult kinds are taken as early as possible in the growing season, put under mist to keep them from shriveling before the roots form. But if you are getting some new top growth from at least the one cutting this may not be your problem - at least with the one cutting. If it did not form very many roots there may not be enough of a root system yet to support a full top growth. Or there could be some other problem or limitation present, it sounds like it may have died back a bit. Yes: amending of individual planting holes with organic material when setting out long-term plants like trees and shrubs is counterproductive, due to how it affects movement of water into and out of the amended planting hole.