If you really like the fruit from this tree, grafting is the only way to fully duplicate the fruit in a new tree. Planting seeds and growing them can be fun and may yield some pretty good fruit, but there will still be variation in the trees grown from seed, so you won't be duplicating your existing tree. I have 2 apricots grown from seed. Both trees produced loads of fruit this year, one tree has fruit about 3/4", the other 1" to 1 1/4". One tree is completely freestone (the fruit even splits a bit at the stem end, open it up and turn it over and the seed falls out), the other partially freestone. One has relatively dry fruit, the other was very sweet and juicy. One tree clings onto the fruit until it rots, the other starts dropping while the fruit still has a tinge of green. Both have good fruit, one better for jam and the other good for fresh eating or canning, but they aren't the parent trees. At 25 years, your old tree really should have a pretty good life left unless it has disease problems, so it shouldn't need removal in the near future. You can have fun planting seeds (the seed is ripe before the fruit is ripe, no need to let it over ripen) and growing some seedlings, then if you want you can either let those grow to produce and see what you get, and/or you could graft from the old tree to branches on the new ones so that you have both the seedling fruit and the graft from the old tree, and eventually cut off the one that isn't as good. Grafts are also likely to come into fruit sooner than seedlings. Getting a known rootstock for grafting would allow you some control over final tree size and may have some traits that will add to the tree, but using seedlings as rootstock won't cost you anything and will probably produce a full sized tree unless you prune frequently.

Nice looking plant Konrad. Sorry it died. I have a Prunus armeniaca var. mandshurica seedling from fruit collected at Olds College in Olds Alberta in 1980 or 81. I started out with 5 or 6 plants but ended up with one survivor. That tree is now about 12 ft tall and partially healthy as it is in a very tough growing area. We have had one batch of fruit enough for jam once. The problem is 3 fold. Early bloom is always an issue since the blossoms can get frozen so easily. The second issue for me is no pollinator nearby. I have an acquaintance in Saskatoon who has a relatively young tree which has given fruit but she has the same problem and we intended to trade blooming branches last spring but did not get it done. I would like to graft from her tree onto mine with one branch and see how that might help. The fruit was of good flavour especially for jam. A little tart and quite unlike the commercials. If you can provide somewhat of a micro climate any of the ones out of the more Northern Nurseries should work. They do take time to get to producing age and you should have 2 for best fruit set. I suspect some kind of early insect control would help as they are so early but the bugs are still there!

Marica, The first photo is one of an 'obesum' of a very kind woman that allowed here photo of this beautiful tree to be used on this forum. It would be one that she has had for many years. The multitude of roots on the bottome 2/3 rds of tree would be roots, now called it's 'caudex' as they are exposed. This same process is true with the second photo. This being a Arabicum/TS with what could be natural root form, but very possible with what they call 'Decorated Roots". To achieve this, when you they would cut off the entire lower portion of the tree, treat it, repot to have roots form all the way around the lower edges of the caudex. Then once the roots are large enough, they then remove roots selectively in a manner to create a balance between roots and branching. This I have not tried and could not venture to explain to anyone.

Looking good as always!!! You can always think about using this as root stock for grafting?? Once you cut the top off for grafting purposes or just to start new branching, the green top section can be calloused and rooted. It's always better to have a woody cutting instead of a young green cutting, but it can be done!!! I have the same issue with my J -105 seedlings. They are thick and tall. I can't even imagine what they will look like in five years?? Lololol. Have fun with your decision!! Laura