Loger: No flack intended just general information. We all have to learn somewhere. I still remember my 1st welding experience , during my Diesel Apprenticship in the early 60.s . It was Gas torch fusion welding back then with appropriate filler rod. My bib tops had more filler rod tip burn holes then a sprinkler hose . Baymee should remember this trial and tribulation during his learning stages . My second Welding upgrading was during my College upgrading during my Stationary Engineering 3rd Class Degree. We used 550 volt 3- phase Lincoln Industrial Welder in the early 70,s and it was required to weld 8 inch x 8 inch test coupons from 1/4 inch hot rolled steel plate in position. 2 complete 8 pass welds in all 4-positions (flat / horizontal / vertical / overhead) I really had a problem initially in horizontal position with undercutting the weld from to hot a heat setting . Most beginners have trouble with adequate penetration in overhead from to cold of a setting. Once completed we cut the coupon into 4 separate strips (vertical band saw) and bent them into a U within a hydraulic bender . If any of the welds cracked we flunked our CWB Exam. My second testing was again Stick welding during my Pressure Vessel Certification U-69 we were required to fabricate a 4 inch x 4 inch x 1/2 inch metal box from 1/8 plate complete with a 1/4 inch weldolet coupling. Once the fabrication was done the box was pressurized 600 psi until it ballooned and then was submerged in water to check for any weld failures (bubbles) identified and again you failed this 1st phase of testing . Before you even got into the Boiler Pipe Weld testing . So yeah have burnt a few sticks of Rod in my Day . Really liked 5/32 Jet Rod , lazy Welders Rod only for flat position welding . Hated Low Hydrogen nasty flux fumes very hazardous. Anyhow been a few yrs since I stick welded , most of my projects are with a Miller Mig these days. Like riding a bicycle you never forget but it will take some practice to get quality welds after a few yrs absence. I remember some of the best welders I worked with during my Industrial Days were the laziest , they could weld on their head once they found a comfortable position. Please take our advice in the fashion (constructive) it is intended all the best Bro :) This post was edited by ewalk on Mon, Oct 14, 13 at 20:06

I feel I see a little Maple (planted in yards) in this area and it does not appear as hardwood. Oak or hardwoods has always been the wood of choice and plentiful in some areas. I have also burned my share of Ash, Elm, Mesquite and Pecan mixed with Oak as a choice. I found splitting soft woods a challenge when I experimented with building splitters using a reduction gear-box and the 8" + dia wood screw looking splitter (about 30 years ago). The big screw would stall-out the splitter due to sinking into the softwood. I saw the idea used on a truck on Elm in Low-Low and it worked good. The axe, maul or wedge & sledge are not bad at all on clean wood. Without a stove, shop & storage on a 120â X 70â city lot, this has been good exercise over the years. The Natural Gas is cheaper but the wood is fun when I can find it within 20 miles. The area's tree trimmings are my basic source of wood (if my spotters report it in time) LOL vs two small area ranches and new building developments in the past. We have plenty oak and etc on family acres in Deep East TX vs here in North TX. The drive and work is not reasonable or safe IMO vs fishing. loger

If you could find a shop with cnc milling the can do what you want. Just remember that this is a stamp for steel and requires a reverse image and must also be hardened and tempered. Saying that when done it should last a lifetime but the cost will reflect the complexity of the design a small shop with a like minded owner would be the answer as all the design is computer generated and once that is done programming is a cinch lots luck but just keep trying

More sourcing work: Spoke to someone that said they did electrostatic but they didn't - HOWEVER - they may be able to do this and then also do some of our floor coatings too. Spoke to the VP - went through what I needed - said that an acrylic or epoxy from either Sherwin Williams or PPG could be used and they would spray - much cheaper to do this prior to roof. Told him I had a number in mind - after I had given him some specs (2 buildings, overall size / rough number of joists, etc. Said $12K - he said he thinks it would be less than that since it's so much easier to do before roof and they would mask 7-10 feet down. So..... there is HOPE!!!! They are not local - but seem to be a pretty cool woman owned business / family run since 1975 it appears. Will have a quote on Monday - and will report back! HOPEFUL!!!!!