Not much you can do now. If you are willing to redo it all you can keep your boarder detail level all around and add you sliver at the bottom. Sometimes level does not work in a mock up and you need to set this course a little off level. Not much but sometimes this look is preferred to that of a missaligned tile laye out. If the tiles where "Glued" on then they should come down with ease. A simpilar option might be to add in a corner shampoo niche and break up the sight lines. This would be a easy fix and one that will not cost you a fortune to do. Layout is key people. We layout all this detail before we even start the plumbing and electrical. Planning, options, forethought all take time and cost money. An older home can hide some of these "Character Marks" and it is up to your trades to help you find a happy medium between what you can afford and expect and what is realistic in any given renovation. Slow and steady wins the race. Don't dive into these installs but map them out first. If it works on paper it most likely will work in the field. My thoughts. Good luck. Love the window by the way...

texasredhead, you and I have disagreed on gfcis before. In hoosierdoc's situation, it is convenient for him/her to run the light off the same circuit as the bathroom outlet which DOES have to be on a gfci. Certainly there is no harm in a light being on a gfci. As I have pointed out, in countries like Australia (and, I think New Zealand) *all* outlets in new or modified work must be gfci. There is nothing wrong with enhancing safety. In a wet area, I think one could argue in favour of gfci protecting lighting, but that's just me. If there is no harm in it, why worry about it? Hooiserdoc, do you get it now? It's not the load, but the circuit which dictates you must use 12/2 running to that light jbox. I understand your confusion but it's the code. Consider these two situations - 1) say the light appears upstream of the outlet. If that was the case, you would have a section of #14 in the circuit, which would be that weak link we were talking about.... 2) you or a future homeowner decides to add an outlet to the circuit, routing it from the light. Same situation. We must be able to assume that the whole of a 20amp circuit is 20 amp rated, right up to where the ul approved fixture branches off. 3) You or a future homeowner decide to replace the light fixture with a heat/lamp/heater combo, again assuming it's a 20a circuit. If you do it the right way, it will be, if you use #14, it won't. Forget about logic or even technical issues for now, as you will. The reason for code and standards is so that we can rely on something being what we assume it is, if we make our own exceptions, and go under a bus or whatever, subsequent people have no idea what we've done.

Generally it is better to start a new thread, rather than posting on an existing one - that way your question gets the attention it deserves without taking away from someone else's. Regardless, the type of water treatment that is available and appropriate for your situation depends entirely upon water chemistry. Let's start with the water report from your local water treatment plant. You should be able to either find it online, or call them and ask. If the report contains adequate information, I can give provide some recommendations. If not, I'll let you know what is missing and how to obtain the necessary water analysis. If hard water is the culprit, a softener will mitigate the spotting problem. However, if your water has really high TDS (total dissolved solids) you will still see spots - they will just be easier to remove. In any case, water analysis is required as a first step.

No, it's a long story, but I have to use a top mount with my countertop - no one should plan an IKEA kitchen until they get their new sink (sub for the unicorn domsjo) because they will screw up your design. So the only way to save the situation is to just use a drop in (so much for my farmstand, which won't fit with the IKEA cabinets, already installed). I've already been through this with the counter people. I'm just wondering if I have to also start all over with the faucet.