How to Replace Wheels on a Rubbermaid Heavy Duty Big Wheel Cart
westes Zone 9b California SF Bay
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
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Craftsman front wheel axle is bent
Comments (25)100% supposition , also a Engineer and depending on the composition (metallurgy) of the Metal Rod in question and span or the guage of tubing square or round or Schedule 40 / 80 / 120 or xx wall thickness will determine the structural rigidity . As a Engineer the Term SWL should ring a Bell ? Were talking Lawn Tractors Bro , not Pagotta structural roof trusses lol . There are numerous Welding Techniques which can be utilized to strengthen tubular or solid steel axles , case hardening , stress relieving or simple gusseting or fish plating to name a few . If you wish to discuss Metallurgy , then start a new thread not add on to a old thread , with no relevant use . Don't know where lex was coming from since no body said solid vs tubular (hollow) was better or worse ??? They were debating Craftsman vs Gravely and Cast Iron vs Carbon Stl. Not Rocket Science . Anyhow start a new thread in the Future !...See MoreAerators and Pull Carts
Comments (12)I have the 40" Brinly plug aerator and love it. It's very well constructed and, with two cinder blocks on the tray, will have no problem reaching deep down to pull a plug. I'm 5'11" and can easily operate the handle from the seat of my tractor by turning left, then reaching. It's not as inconvenient as it sounds. I had the same thought process as you: get the smaller aerator so it takes up less space (it's still pretty big). When you consider that you'll have to go over each area three times to properly aerate your lawn, that extra 8 inches would come in handy, but not enough to justify the extra storage difficulty (or challenge of getting it through my door). My neighbor has one of those poly cart/wheelbarrow jobs. We used it to carry some large rocks once and it folded in half. There is no question a steel cart is more rugged. I have a John Deere 10 steel cart which doesn't rust because I keep it in my shed. It doesn't double as a wheelbarrow, but I have a wheelbarrow, so no sleep lost there. Different tools for different jobs. The wheelbarrow gets used, abused, and left out in the elements. It's never been touched up and never will. When it rusts to the point where things start falling out the bottom, I'll take it to the scrapyard and buy a new one. It's the one piece of equipment I own which I truly do not care to maintain. On the other hand, the Deere cart is kept in the same meticulous state as the tractor that pulls it, and will probably be handed down to my grandson one day, but that could be a while. My oldest son turns four next month....See MoreFixing a Rear Wheel on a Fridge?
Comments (14)Quickest fix, I think, is to cut the old pin out with a dremel or small hacksaw, (you can cut right in the middle of the old pin, easy to reach) then prop up that corner an inch or two, pop in the new pin and then see if you can peen the crimpable end enough with a screwdriver from the top or side to prevent it from sliding out. You might be able to get a punch or an extension in there enough to dent or cut that interior wall just a tiny bit but enough to get access in there with some vice grips to crimp the new pin. A couple more options short of removing bottom pan: Get a spring clip from the hardware store and snap it over the exposed (head) end of the pin, Just make sure the spring leaves from the clip don't interfere with the roller ribs. Install the roller and pin then mix up a little dab of epoxy/hardener and some metal filings. Use a popsicle stick to dab around the head of the pin and the right support flange. Let it cure for a couple hours and it should hold the pin in place okay. Get a cotter pin style pin instead and shove the pin in from the side with some needle nose pliers or a hemostat. OR, just get a nice piece of duct tape and tape the head flat to the support flange and noodle another strip in and around the other end of the pin and try to get the tape to stick to the end of the pin and the floor of the pan. (The Tim Taylor approach.) Thanks for the photos, by the way. ps. If you do decide to pull the bottom pan, tilt the refrigerator toward the process line (little tube on left side of your pictures) and put a block in to support the compressor body against the interior bulkhead of the sidewall while you unbolt the pan for the repair. Same for any other heavy components affixed to the pan. Then let the refrigerator sit upright for as long as you had it sitting on its side before plugging it back in....See Moreblue star rnb366 ss is very heavy. how did you manage
Comments (18)If you take off the grates, the burner pans, the burners, the oven door, the racks, the oven floor (it just lifts out), and anything else that looks easy to remove, you can probably cut the weight 150 pounds. All above except the burners them selves require essentially no tools. Then get some magic sliders at HD (for the rear) and with a CLEAN floor, it should be easy enough to slide right in. You may need a piece or two of lumber to provide a little lift/leverage at the front, but it should be no worse than many other appliances, once the things are out....See Morewestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
3 years agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
3 years agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
3 years agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
3 years agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
3 years agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
3 years agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
3 years agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
3 years agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
3 years agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
3 years agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
3 years agowestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
3 years ago
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