Mr. Clean eraser is incredible. What won't it do? My husband was cleaning his boat (fiberglass hull) and it had scuff marks along the sides and on the floor. He tried brush and soap, a nylon scrubbie and was planning to get steel wool when I stopped him and told him to use my Mr. Clean eraser. He scoffed and said these marks were so stubborn that a "sponge" will do nothing. I insisted he try it and they were EASILY removed! It took him just a minute or two remove all the scuffs, and he had been laboring for nearly an hour with the other items. He was amazed! I have several on hand at all times for shower doors, scuff marks on floors, baseboards and walls. I also used it to remove specks of dried paint from woodwork. Use a light hand though, because it will remove the finish if you are over zealous.

100 percent high quality exterior acrylic paint in satin or semi-gloss depending on how shiny you like it. I prefer satin. I would hose down the door first to get the dirt off and then let it dry. A power washer is probably overkill....any stubborn dirt you can just scrub away with a brush and then hose off. You don't need primer if there is no rust showing and the paint is in sound condition. Every door is different in terms of my application method. Those fiberglass doors with the grain look come out perfect by just using a roller, though you may need to use a brush to get into the inset parts of the panels. You could also use a roller just to get the paint on faster and then backbrush each panel or section. It depends on the look you are going after. Do not paint the door while the sun is shining on it or that will just ruin the fun.

Thank you all for the great suggestions. I've since calmed down a bit, I think I was just having a panic attack b/c nothing in this project is going as planned (we bought a new home in Oct and gutted it, we are no where near finished and desperately want to be done). Regardless, the painters came yesterday and I gave them a bookshelf that will be part of the island that is going to be hand paint for me to look at. remodelfla , I like your idea of painting the side of the cabinet better, which will ultimately be covered by an end panel, but unfortunately they came before I was able to read your comments. As cheri127 said, I too have never seen anyone paint with a brush and have no marks so I am again second guessing my decision ¼. I figure I can always sand it down again if it is not the look I want. We put some of the paint they had matched on a piece of wood and let it dry and it matches the current base color of the cabinets really well. I am happy with the color, so at last we have that done. Now I need to figure out the glaze. cleo_2007, great suggestion. I had tried to get all this from the cabinet manufacturer (JSI Cabinetry) but they were unable to give me anything. Apparently these are made in China and it is not available. I was my cabinet co. was like yours. nodirthere, your kitchen is beautiful and the same look I am going for. I had come across your blog on the finished page looking around for ideas. Luckily my doors were already sprayed by the manufacturer and glazed and we like the look so we are not touching those. Only the boxes, stiles, rails, columns, trim and molding need to be painted. At least the doors will have a really nice clean finished look to them, I just want the boxes to match. I am attempted to add pictures for you to see, but am a novice at this so it did not work. Anyone know how? Thanks again for all your help. I¡¦ll keep you posted on how things go.

I am sorry you are having these problems. While sanding is important, I used a "no sanding necessary" primer (Zinsser) about 20 years ago on old kitchen cabinets that I put in my laundry room and one bathroom vanity. Over all, it has held up very well - though I admit neither room gets the wear and tear of a kitchen. Also, the original cabinet surface, while finished, was not glossy. The primer did take several days to cure and was initially easy to chip, but eventually hardened up. This does not help your issues with brush marks etc, but lack of sanding does not necessarily mean the paint will chip off totally. Even well done painted over finished wood cabinets experience the need for touch ups which is why I consider painting over previously finished wood cabinets to be a stop gap measure while saving for new cabinets to replace worn cabinets. With touch ups the cabinets can be presentable for many years as it can take some time for many to save up for new cabinets. I do have two friends with new white custom kitchen cabinets - both have chips on the pull out trash - so even expensive painted kitchens can need occasional touch ups. Even when the paint job comes out wonderfully, I usually caution against expensive counters / backsplash on painted over previously finished wood cabinets. Often, the paint job does not hold up over the long haul (> 5 years) and new cabinets become necessary - then the new counters and backsplash are wasted. If you plan on continuing improvements - keep them sensible and low cost - laminate counters rather than stone. You can have a sweet and functional kitchen without spending a fortune. If your layout is good, and your cabinet boxes in excellent condition, you could consider refacing in several years. it is great your cabinets are so tall. I hope you are able to get a discount and or repairs to your present paint job - but the kitchen is looking pretty:)